I need some help on my 2006. One of the retaining clips on the rear parking brake has broken and I cannot get the rotor off to fix them. I removed the console to release the tension on the cable but that did not help. I have been banging, using a crowbar all afternoon and it just wont come off. Any ideas?
4th gen rear rotor problem
- Thread starter Angstrom
- Start date
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
There's a hole in the hub of the rotor, the hole needs to be rotated to the bottom, you have too insert a flat head screwdriver in the hole and feel around a bit too find the star shaped adjusting wheel, turn the adjusting wheel several times and more if needed until the bakes shoes are backed enough to remove the rotor, can't remember which way you have to turn the wheel but it should be apparent at some point if you go the wrong way.
If you don't do the above you WILL do more damage to the brake mounting parts forcing the rotor off!!
If you don't do the above you WILL do more damage to the brake mounting parts forcing the rotor off!!
AuSeeker
Elite Member
If you can't back off the shoes you're going to have a tough time getting the rotor off but it's been done with a lot of force by some here that didn't know to back off the shoes and they had to replace most all of the mounting hardware.
I don't think I would try torching the rotor off, you risk damage to the axle and other parts if things go wrong, but I guess it could be done if you're careful.
Seeing that you're from Canada I'm guessing you have a lot of rust and maybe the reason you're having issues getting the adjuster to back off, it's hard to tell if you're prying on the star wheel if it won't turn, maybe try spraying a lot of lubricate in the hole and hitting the backing plate with a hammer from behind to help break up the rust, it may help getting the adjusting wheel freed up, try this numerous times as each time you are getting some of the rust to release it's hold on the metal.
Good Luck and let us know when you succeed!!
I don't think I would try torching the rotor off, you risk damage to the axle and other parts if things go wrong, but I guess it could be done if you're careful.
Seeing that you're from Canada I'm guessing you have a lot of rust and maybe the reason you're having issues getting the adjuster to back off, it's hard to tell if you're prying on the star wheel if it won't turn, maybe try spraying a lot of lubricate in the hole and hitting the backing plate with a hammer from behind to help break up the rust, it may help getting the adjusting wheel freed up, try this numerous times as each time you are getting some of the rust to release it's hold on the metal.
Good Luck and let us know when you succeed!!
jreask
Member
That E brake set up with the shoes is a tough one to work on. I found it almost impossible to get my hands or tools in the small confined area to work on the brakes. It could be that I don't have enough experience with the E brake system.
Do use the screwdriver to move the adjustment wheel to loosen the shoes against the rotor. IF you pull the shoes off or any part of the shoe hardware it is a biatch to get back on. Just a warning. Ask me how I know.
Do use the screwdriver to move the adjustment wheel to loosen the shoes against the rotor. IF you pull the shoes off or any part of the shoe hardware it is a biatch to get back on. Just a warning. Ask me how I know.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
He already tried using the threaded holes and the force cracked the rotor.
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Yeah oops, sorry I missed that!
Well, I got if off with a lot of hammering. I crawled underneath to get more force on hammering. I also had the holes threaded with a bolt so that when I hit the one side which is open due to the caliper being off, it wouldn't twist and stay on. So I banged and banged, then adjusted the bolt, banged some more, etc until I could see the edge of the brake shoes. Then I put a large slotted screw driver on the edge and banged on those and they started to move back a little. Banged on the rotor some more, adjusted bolt and banged on the brake shoe. Eventually, the brake shoe pulled back on the one side and I now had the rotor off about 1 inch, so I could repeat the procedure on the other side. I got it off. I was right, the spring retainer seat had failed and the broke free of the pin. I guess this changed the position of the other shoe slightly too and you could see how the retainer seat had been rubbing on the inside of the rotor drum. It was only a matter of time before this completely grinded away. I had to buy a brake shoe hardware kit, $34. an I replaced both pins and seats. What a *****. Virtually no room to work in there. I used the adjusting mechanism at the bottom of the shoes to push the shoes out as far as possible to give me some finger room and secured the brake shoes in place with a large C clamp while I was getting the spring and seats back on. I had also lined up the hole of the hub (not on the first go around) to be right in front of the spring seat, so I could get a long narrow pair of needle nose pliers through the hole to push on the seat while holding the pin from the back with my other hand. Push and turn about a thousand times until it finally caught. There must be a tool for this. Same procedure for the other shoe.
I think I have adjusted the shoe a little too tight as I can hear some slight rubbing, but I had to go away for a couple of days. But I am back now, so tomorrow, I am going to remove the rotor again and back off the shoes slightly.
Two days to change rear rotors. Not my finest hour!
I think I have adjusted the shoe a little too tight as I can hear some slight rubbing, but I had to go away for a couple of days. But I am back now, so tomorrow, I am going to remove the rotor again and back off the shoes slightly.
Two days to change rear rotors. Not my finest hour!
TechWrench
Senior Member
Just a note, if you line up the correct hole in the rotor/hub properly, you can get a small straight blade screwdriver in there and adjust the parking brake shoes without removing the rotor. It is a bit of a PITA, but it will work. I have done it several times. I use a good flashlight to check the alignment of the hole and the star wheel adjuster. Also, I use two of the lug nuts and some large nuts that will fit over the studs to tighten the rotor to the hub so the rotor won't move when turning it. The adjustment is easier to do that way. You can do a search on the procedure, but as I recall the manual recommends you tighten the adjustment just until the rotor won't turn, then back off 8 clicks of the star wheel. I, personally have found that 5-6 clicks work better for me. This gives me the parking brake pedal travel I prefer to have.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Ditto on not taking the rotor off again, beleive me try using the hole first, if Techwrench and I haven't convinced you to do it that way, just think about you are very likely going the "POP" the springs and seats apart and have to do that process again, which from your experience I know you don't want to do that again anytime soon!!
