4WD Conversion

Doc2012

Senior Member
I got a PM earlier from [MENTION=81859]02_SE_Runner[/MENTION] asking about my Conversion. I told him to give me a call and we can discuss it. After some thought, and some searching, I decided to start a thread instead. I discovered that on T4R, there really aren't any write ups on JUST the conversion; instead, people have touched on them in their build threads.

My goal with this is to educate people that want to do a 4WD conversion. From the parts, to the options, to the actual conversion itself.

First and foremost, you HAVE to be familiar with the 4Runner; have to be comfortable with a jack, wrench, sockets, and some wiring; and have to be comfortable taking stuff apart and putting it back together. Most of us are. Oh, you should also have some kind of redneck engine-u-ity. :D :flipoff:

First things first, lets talk about the 4Runner.

Now, there are SUBTLE differences between the wiring on the different years of the 4Runner. For example, I know my 1999 Limited WILL NOT accept a 1998 Harness. The plugs on the ECU are different, as well as the injectors. Everything else plugs in fine. The transmission, the t-case, all that jazz. Just those two things are different. The best option for this is to try and find the parts from the same year 4Runner that you have.

Aside from choosing the BEST VEHICLE EVER, you've also chosen one that is VERY capable, both on and off road; and in either the 2 or 4WD configurations. The differences between 4Runners is just that; being 2 or 4WD drive. Sure, the bodies, mounts, ect are different, but the parts are basically the same.

The BEST thing about the 4Runner, is that the frame is the EXACT same, in both 2 and 4WD configurations. The only difference is the position of the transmission cross member, but that is easily rectified by either cutting it and welding it into the proper position, or by making a custom cross member. Hell, I even took a piece of 1/4" steel plate and just extended the mount until I made my crossmember. (Thats where the redneck engine-u-ity comes in. :flipoff:)

If you want the ADD, the Conversion is nothing more than a bolt in modification, aside from the crossmember. There are other options, and I will BRIEFLY touch on them, and why I chose to do what I did.

Another great thing about the 3RD Gen 4Runner is that the parts are basically the same as the 1st Gen Tacoma. The motors, transmissions, and front suspension all are interchangable. This is where you get into some options for your conversion.

I chose to do the Manual Hub conversion, as well as a Manual T-case on the back of the transmission. Why I chose to do this, is because when I first completed my conversion, the 4WD wouldn't engage. I narrowed this down to the Center Locking Differential on the T-case. I tried to take it apart, but it was too much of a PITA, so I just decided to do a manual T-case swap. Not only did this get rid of the CLD, but it also got rid of the electronics on the t-case, which is less to fail on the trail.

I chose to do the manual hub conversion because 1) I like the look; and 2) because of the ease of fixing/less chance op problems. With the ADD system, id you break a CV while you're out wheeling, you HAVE to replace that CV, or you risk destroying your hub. We all know that's no bueno. With the Manual Hub, all you have to do is pull the CV out, and plug the hole in your diff with a rag or something, cover the hole on the back side of your hub, and you're good to go. You DON'T HAVE to have a CV in there. Also, if you do the manual hub conversion, you can get rid of the front diff ADD as well. More on that later.

With that said, now you have to decide what parts you want. Obviously, you're going to need a front differential, (2) CVs, (2) hubs, Transmission, front and rear drive shafts, and possibly a rear differential. I say possibly a rear differential because you HAVE to have the same gear ratio front and rear, or else the risk of breaking something increases ten fold.

At this point, you'll want to decide if you want the manual hubs and manual t-case, or if you want the ADD system. If you choose to go the manual route, then you need to get them off a Tacoma, seeing as how 3Rd Gen 4Runners didn't come with the manual hubs. I already stated my case for the manual system, so I'll just leave it at that.

Now, some people will tell you that you NEED the 4WD computer, the 4WD wiring harness, and the 4WD ECU. IF you go with all the ADD crap, you will. If you go with the manual stuff, you won't. The only difference between 2WD and 4WD transmissions is the shift points. If you want the little light on the dashboard to light up, then you will need the wiring harness and the ECU, but if you don't care about that, then just leave the 2WD harness and ECU in the truck and call it a day. I wish I would have done that....

So far, we've discussed the differences between the 2/4WD 4Runner, and the parts needed, and the options for the 4WD conversion.

To Recap the parts, you're going to need:

-(1) Front Differential, doesn't matter if it's ADD or manual, as long as the gear ratios are the same as the rear.
-(2) CV Axles
-(2) Hubs, either Manual or ADD
-(1) Transmission
-(1) Transfer Case
-(1) Front drive shaft
-(1) Rear Drive shaft
-(1) ECU, if the years are drastically different
-(1) wiring harness, again, if the years are drastically different
-(1) Rear 3rd member, if the gear ratios are different.

That's it for the night. It's 0001 (1201) my time, and I have to be up at 0445. I will continue this thread tomorrow. I'm sure I've left some stuff out, but please, be patient with me and let me reread this tomorrow and fix what I've said before correcting me.

Have a good night guys, and be safe.
 
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I'm extremely excited for this!

I have a 1999 2wd also. Got it as a gift from my folks for my 1st vehicle with only 88k miles. Lots of memories were made in the truck (Especially going through high-school/college having those foldable back seats :lol: ) I don't want to get rid of it.

Looking forward to seeing more progress on this, and expect PM's from me in the future with questions! :hungry:
 
I figured I'd chime in on this since I have half of my 4wd conversion done. Half being the 4wd trans and tcase installed. When doing my conversion, I feel like manual hub/non ADD front is the cheapest option. Having to troubleshoot all the ADD stuff is just added work and manual hubs are truly the better option. My biggest problem was the t-case speedo sensor. I have a wired sensor in my 98 and my trans came from a 96 tacoma which is cable driven. I got really lucky and found one at the junkyard. New this is a 200$ part. I also had to lengthen the wiring to reach the sensor since you have the sensor located further back. Also, when buying manual hubs, (MAKE SURE YOUR BEARINGs ARE NOT SHOT). People pay a lot of money for manual hubs and even more when they find out they have to be rebuilt.
 
I chose to do the manual hub conversion because 1) I like the look; and 2) because of the ease of fixing/less chance op problems. With the ADD system, id you break a CV while you're out wheeling, you HAVE to replace that CV, or you risk destroying your hub. We all know that's no bueno. With the Manual Hub, all you have to do is pull the CV out, and plug the hole in your diff with a rag or something, cover the hole on the back side of your hub, and you're good to go. You DON'T HAVE to have a CV in there. Also, if you do the manual hub conversion, you can get rid of the front diff ADD as well. More on that later.

If you break a cv half shaft All you need to do is unlock the hubs, and put it in 2wd. No on trail dissembly required.
 
If you break a cv half shaft All you need to do is unlock the hubs, and put it in 2wd. No on trail dissembly required.

What happens if you have to go back out the same way you came in, and can't really afford to have 2WD?

I would much rather pull out the CV that's broken, cover the holes up, and have 3WD, rather than have to try to go through everything in 2WD. The odds of you making it out in 2WD are slim to none, depending where you are.

Of course, we're all supposed to have extra parts like CVs and stufff in the back of the rig anyway. RIGHT?!?!?!?!
 
What happens if you have to go back out the same way you came in, and can't really afford to have 2WD?

I would much rather pull out the CV that's broken, cover the holes up, and have 3WD, rather than have to try to go through everything in 2WD. The odds of you making it out in 2WD are slim to none, depending where you are.

Of course, we're all supposed to have extra parts like CVs and stufff in the back of the rig anyway. RIGHT?!?!?!?!

And Winches - so we can get through the bad stuff if we have to drive back in 2wd.
 
What happens if you have to go back out the same way you came in, and can't really afford to have 2WD?

I would much rather pull out the CV that's broken, cover the holes up, and have 3WD, rather than have to try to go through everything in 2WD. The odds of you making it out in 2WD are slim to none, depending where you are.

Of course, we're all supposed to have extra parts like CVs and stufff in the back of the rig anyway. RIGHT?!?!?!?!

Assuming that your diff operates the same as the earlier 7.5, once you've busted a CV you're in 2wd anyway unless you have a front locker. Whether you pull the halfshaft out or not, the spiders driving that halfshaft are going to see no resistance and that's where all your front power will go. The side with the good CV will be effectively undriven.
 
The a-arms and spindles aren't the same between the 2wd and 4wd trucks, are they?

I know the A-Arms are, and as for the spindles, I believe they are. The only difference between the spindles is weather they have the 4WD hub in them or not. That I know of.
 
I know the A-Arms are, and as for the spindles, I believe they are. The only difference between the spindles is weather they have the 4WD hub in them or not. That I know of.

Spindles - knuckles, they are the same between 2wd and 4wd. The only difference is if it has abs or not.
 
Assuming that your diff operates the same as the earlier 7.5, once you've busted a CV you're in 2wd anyway unless you have a front locker. Whether you pull the halfshaft out or not, the spiders driving that halfshaft are going to see no resistance and that's where all your front power will go. The side with the good CV will be effectively undriven.

What he said. No such animal as 3wd unless your locked up front.
 
I don't have time to read the whole first post, but we should link to our own 4WD conversions. Doc, is yours documented here? Has anyone else successfully and completely converted their trucks to 4WD?


Here are the links to my 99 2WD automatic conversion to 5spd 4x4. My conversion was largely OEM as I wanted the system to function as it did from the factory, including ADD.

4WD + 5-speed Conversion:
81. 11-16-2011, 08:27 PM: Pulling the motor and transmission from the donor truck. 3RZ flywheel resurfacing, dash cover
82. 11-17-2011, 06:17 PM: Bell housing install, clutch fork/throwout bearing, slave cylinder comparison. 4.56 front diff install, 4WD hubs, spindles, CV axles.
83. 11-18-2011, 04:57 PM: Manual brake + clutch pedals, hub/CV seals, clutch master
84. 11-21-2011, 06:42 PM: Donor transmission tunnel, wiring harness from donor, SR5 door wiring swap, driver's door stay, hub covers.
85. 11-23-2011, 03:55 PM: Pedal pads for clutch + brake. Hub Covers installed.
86. 11-29-2011, 11:33 PM: Dash/seats/interior removal, ECU swap, transmission crossmember removed, transmission removal, VSS sensor
87. 11-29-2011, 11:33 PM: Flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing, wiring
88. 12-01-2011, 12:06 AM: Cutting/fitting transmission tunnel, ADD Solenoids + wires, clutch master cylinder reinforcement
89. 12-02-2011, 10:47 PM: Clutch line/bracket install, gauge cluster insert.
90. 12-05-2011, 07:15 PM: Shortening input shaft, installing transmission, shifters, and driveshafts. Transmission crossmember welded
91. 12-06-2011, 09:10 PM: Diff Vacuum tank, modifying the transmission crossmember, wiring front diff switch/transmission functions.
92. 12-08-2011, 07:16 PM: ADD vacuum lines, interior reassembly, White LED interior lights, 4WD emblem.
93. 12-09-2011, 02:24 PM: Rear driveshaft/u-joints.
94. 12-13-2011, 06:45 PM: 33 tooth VSS gear. 4WD testing + pictures.
95. 12-13-2011, 08:55 PM: Video: Testing 4WD
96. 12-14-2011, 07:55 PM: Video: Testing 4WD day two.
 

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