Ok quick update I tested the solenoids one tested 47 and the other was bouncing from 47 to 51 but mostly 47 so I’m guessing those are both ok for the front driveshaft I couldn’t turn it with all 4 wheels on the ground does that help ?
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4wd electrical issue
- Thread starter ScubaS
- Start date
Ok quick update I tested the solenoids one tested 47 and the other was bouncing from 47 to 51 but mostly 47 so I’m guessing those are both ok for the front driveshaft I couldn’t turn it with all 4 wheels on the ground does that help ?
Looks like the solenoids are good. If you couldn't turn the driveshaft with the vacuum lines switched to unlock the ADD and your transfer case lever in 2HI then your transfer case is still in either 4HI or 4HI Locked. Try applying power and ground to the transfer case motor to see if the motor moves. It will be the two terminals of the transfer case actuator motor with the thicker wire. Apply power to one and ground to the other until it stops moving then try to turn your front driveshaft. If it doesn't turn then reverse power and ground at the transfer case actuator motor and try again.Ok quick update I tested the solenoids one tested 47 and the other was bouncing from 47 to 51 but mostly 47 so I’m guessing those are both ok for the front driveshaft I couldn’t turn it with all 4 wheels on the ground does that help ?
Looks like the solenoids are good. If you couldn't turn the driveshaft with the vacuum lines switched to unlock the ADD and your transfer case lever in 2HI then your transfer case is still in either 4HI or 4HI Locked. Try applying power and ground to the transfer case motor to see if the motor moves. It will be the two terminals of the transfer case actuator motor with the thicker wire. Apply power to one and ground to the other until it stops moving then try to turn your front driveshaft. If it doesn't turn then reverse power and ground at the transfer case actuator motor and try again.
Ok one thing I noticed when I was troubleshooting it a couple weeks ago I had it up in the air all 4 wheels and I was switching the vsvs and I can hear that the front diff would clunk and the front wheels would spin in one way and when switched they wouldn’t spin but the front driveshaft is always spinning no matter what way the vsv are put idk if I’m confusing you but front driveshaft spins with vsv switched but the front wheels lock only when I put the vacuum on the 4wd solenoid
I'm looking for the front driveshaft spinning separately from the rear drive shaft now that you confirmed the ADD is working properly.Ok one thing I noticed when I was troubleshooting it a couple weeks ago I had it up in the air all 4 wheels and I was switching the vsvs and I can hear that the front diff would clunk and the front wheels would spin in one way and when switched they wouldn’t spin but the front driveshaft is always spinning no matter what way the vsv are put idk if I’m confusing you but front driveshaft spins with vsv switched but the front wheels lock only when I put the vacuum on the 4wd solenoid
I'm looking for the front driveshaft spinning separately from the rear drive shaft now that you confirmed the ADD is working properly.
Ok I jumped it once and it did let the front shaft spin on its own I tried jumping it back but it won’t do it with the cables anymore but I’m guessing you know the next step since that works
Ok I jumped it once and it did let the front shaft spin on its own I tried jumping it back but it won’t do it with the cables anymore but I’m guessing you know the next step since that works
With the transfer case motor jumped back to 2wd do you have any dash lights on for the 4wd?
Here's a link to a 2000 FSM. The diagnostic procedures you'll need to follow are under the VF3AM transfer case section: 2000 4Runner FSM - Printable - Google Drive
Click on section 27 then TR-2 troubleshooting. I'll still help you out with this but it might be helpful for you to reference what I'm referencing.
With the transfer case motor jumped back to 2wd do you have any dash lights on for the 4wd?
Here's a link to a 2000 FSM. The diagnostic procedures you'll need to follow are under the VF3AM transfer case section: 2000 4Runner FSM - Printable - Google Drive
Click on section 27 then TR-2 troubleshooting. I'll still help you out with this but it might be helpful for you to reference what I'm referencing.
When I jumped it to 2wd the lights were still blinking then I pressed the 4wd button and it clicked I heard it and it went back into 4wd now I can’t jump it out I think the tc actuator motor got stuck I heard some guy say he had to pull it out to free it but the lights were still blinking so should I pull the motor out then jump it back into 2wd?
If you had the front ADD disengaged, the selector in 2HI, and you moved the transfer case to 2hi position and the lights were still blinking you likely have a sensor or wiring issue.When I jumped it to 2wd the lights were still blinking then I pressed the 4wd button and it clicked I heard it and it went back into 4wd now I can’t jump it out I think the tc actuator motor got stuck I heard some guy say he had to pull it out to free it but the lights were still blinking so should I pull the motor out then jump it back into 2wd?
If you remove the motor then jump it back to 2wd the motor will be out of time with the shift fork in the transfer case. If the motor is stuck it's likely an internal failure in the transfer case causing it to bind. Does the motor try to move at all?
If you had the front ADD disengaged, the selector in 2HI, and you moved the transfer case to 2hi position and the lights were still blinking you likely have a sensor or wiring issue.
If you remove the motor then jump it back to 2wd the motor will be out of time with the shift fork in the transfer case. If the motor is stuck it's likely an internal failure in the transfer case causing it to bind. Does the motor try to move at all?
Yes I can hear it try to move a little bit not too much it happened with my last transfer case too I jumped it once and then it wouldn’t jump in or out anymore ? One guy on YouTube said jumping it with 12v caused his to get stuck so he pulled it out and put it back in and now he can jump it with 6 v and it does it fine I’m gonna try to jump it again right now it’s negative on the top left and positive to the right of it right ?
If you had the front ADD disengaged, the selector in 2HI, and you moved the transfer case to 2hi position and the lights were still blinking you likely have a sensor or wiring issue.
If you remove the motor then jump it back to 2wd the motor will be out of time with the shift fork in the transfer case. If the motor is stuck it's likely an internal failure in the transfer case causing it to bind. Does the motor try to move at all?
When I jumped it to 2wd I had the electrical connectors to the add disconnected because I’m getting voltage on the 4wd one non stop when I jumped it to 2wd and then I connected the add it locked the front up I’m getting constant voltage on the 4wd add and not the 2wd
When I jumped it to 2wd I had the electrical connectors to the add disconnected because I’m getting voltage on the 4wd one non stop when I jumped it to 2wd and then I connected the add it locked the front up I’m getting constant voltage on the 4wd add and not the 2wd
Have you checked the 4hi button circuit on the shifter assembly?
Have you checked the 4hi button circuit on the shifter assembly?
Just i pulled off everything and I checked for continuity on the 4wd button and it tested good
If the transfer case motor is stuck then I don't know what to tell you to do. If you decide to take the motor out make sure you put it back into the transfer case in whatever position you pulled it out. You can try following this guy's transfer case motor rebuild for reference: 4WD, ADD: Troubleshooting, rebuild (my story) I would follow the same troubleshooting he did even though you've already done it. Doesn't hurt to do it again.Just i pulled off everything and I checked for continuity on the 4wd button and it tested good
If the transfer case motor is stuck then I don't know what to tell you to do. If you decide to take the motor out make sure you put it back into the transfer case in whatever position you pulled it out. You can try following this guy's transfer case motor rebuild for reference: 4WD, ADD: Troubleshooting, rebuild (my story) I would follow the same troubleshooting he did even though you've already done it. Doesn't hurt to do it again.
Ok I’m gonna try to jump it one more time and see what it does I’ll try to pull it out thank you so much for your time ill update it once I’m done
If the transfer case motor is stuck then I don't know what to tell you to do. If you decide to take the motor out make sure you put it back into the transfer case in whatever position you pulled it out. You can try following this guy's transfer case motor rebuild for reference: 4WD, ADD: Troubleshooting, rebuild (my story) I would follow the same troubleshooting he did even though you've already done it. Doesn't hurt to do it again.
Ok update !!! I jumped it again raised the front disconnected the actuator motor reconnected it disconnected the ecu and the vsv plugs and now it’s in rwd front diff unlocked and no lights blinking . When I pressed 4wd while driving it locked up and binds when I turn and the lights start blinking again nonstop but it isn’t in awd it’s like in 4 locked it binds hard when turning I already jumped it back and it’s back in rwd with no lights on. I noticed that when I pressed the 4wd and it locked up I checked the vsv connections for voltage and they both were showing 14 volts ? Any idea what can be causing that
