4wd Front Driveshaft U-Joint Replacement

[dgbull3]

While accelerating I noticed a vibration at my feet, not really in the steering wheel. Took a look underneath at the driveshafts and noticed some slight movement in one direction on the front shaft (4wd). Picked up a new u-joint and borrowed an autozone c-clamp / u-joint press.

The u-joint to replace is on the transfer case side of the shaft. I felt daring and figured I could probably do this without removing the whole shaft; just spend some intimate time under the car...ha, bad idea. I was able to remove the clips and press out one side of the joint to remove a cap. While pressing it back through to remove the other side, the u-joint went off center from the yoke and gouged the inside of the yoke a little before I noticed and stopped. Now I'm having trouble pushing it through straight so I'm trying to remove the driveshaft and do this all on a stable surface. A few questions come up though:

1.) Where I gouged the yoke a little (on the inside surface where the u-joint slides in); do I need to get a new one because I messed up the mating surface a little? This is the transfer case one.
2.) How the heck do you get the driveshaft off on the diff side? I see the 4 bolts but the nuts are on the diff side and there's no access to using a breaker bar to get the nuts off. Have soaked them in PB Blaster and an acetone/AT fluid mix. Anyone else have easier luck?

This should be an easy fix. If/when I get done, I'll post pics and how to (and how not too).

 

[Drunner97]

While accelerating I noticed a vibration at my feet, not really in the steering wheel. Took a look underneath at the driveshafts and noticed some slight movement in one direction on the front shaft (4wd). Picked up a new u-joint and borrowed an autozone c-clamp / u-joint press.

The u-joint to replace is on the transfer case side of the shaft. I felt daring and figured I could probably do this without removing the whole shaft; just spend some intimate time under the car...ha, bad idea. I was able to remove the clips and press out one side of the joint to remove a cap. While pressing it back through to remove the other side, the u-joint went off center from the yoke and gouged the inside of the yoke a little before I noticed and stopped. Now I'm having trouble pushing it through straight so I'm trying to remove the driveshaft and do this all on a stable surface. A few questions come up though:

1.) Where I gouged the yoke a little (on the inside surface where the u-joint slides in); do I need to get a new one because I messed up the mating surface a little? This is the transfer case one.
2.) How the heck do you get the driveshaft off on the diff side? I see the 4 bolts but the nuts are on the diff side and there's no access to using a breaker bar to get the nuts off. Have soaked them in PB Blaster and an acetone/AT fluid mix. Anyone else have easier luck?

This should be an easy fix. If/when I get done, I'll post pics and how to (and how not too).

1) not sure. You'll probably be fine.
2) breaker bar on the bolt and boxed wrench on the nut. I know on the rear driveshaft the bolts going to the transfer case are bolt only, but the diff is bolt and nut. It's been awhile since I had my drive shafts out and I can't remember off the top of my head whether the front drive shaft was the same.

 

[dgbull3]

Well I finally had a free day and got the driveshaft off. Now I'm having a hard time pressing out the old joint. The yoke ears appear to taper but the c-clamp / press has parallel faces. As a result, every time I try to press it through, the joint goes off centered and wedges into the yoke.

How are you supposed to press it through? I've tried shimming the receiving end of the press to make up for the gap; doesn't seem to work, it still goes off centered.

 

[dgbull3]

Never mind...was able to get it using a 21mm short socket on the screw side of the c-clamp. That kept it centered.