shawnstcyr
New member
I made this from a few simple parts, picked up at my local fastener store.
Picasa Web Albums - shawn - ARB HILift Mount
Picasa Web Albums - shawn - ARB HILift Mount
$5.80 ARB HiLift jack mount
- Thread starter shawnstcyr
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
shawnstcyr
New member
Yeah, it looks bad. That costs $800 to fix. Believe it or not, it started as a small chip in the clear coat. Then I drove it 13 hrs through HEAVY fog from Denver to Abilene, Tx. When I got home the entire hood was severely wrinkled. I had no idea fog would do that to you at 70 MPH! It has since dried out and shrunk, but it looks awful.
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
shameless copy and tweak planned
Cheap and useful mod-speaking my language....
I'm thinking with just another strong piece of plate to clear the top bar I can improve this slightly to allow the hood to open ...just have to think this out a bit more...thanks for getting the wheels in motion on this mod.
Cheap and useful mod-speaking my language....
I'm thinking with just another strong piece of plate to clear the top bar I can improve this slightly to allow the hood to open ...just have to think this out a bit more...thanks for getting the wheels in motion on this mod.
Duhockey
Senior Member
I think it looks like lightning!
does the red on the hood distract you though? I would think that if that was in my view it would mess with me all the time.
shawnstcyr
New member
No, not at all. If anything, I think it looks tough from the driver's seat!
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
I tweaked this a bit today
1.30 each for 3/8 -16 4 inch sized full thread bolts.
12 total washers at .12 each.
2 Wing nuts were like .39 each
12 total nuts at .25 each.
A bit of overkill no doubt and I ended up going back for a 5" bolt for the end that holds the base-it was just a bit too close to the top rail for my liking.
I briefly toyed with a ($23) boxed piece of steel with pre-drilled holes but they did not line up to the spacing of the holes atop the ARB.
On to the pics:
okay this first pic I have already removed the base end and the Hi Lift is resting level. It's quite simple to "pull the pin" at the base and I was testing the fitment to see if I could clear the hood. I am thinking if I would get rid of the bug shield at leading edge of hood it might clear but then again maybe not... The silver metal immediately about the license plate is where the Firestik screws in and no interference there.
1.30 each for 3/8 -16 4 inch sized full thread bolts.
12 total washers at .12 each.
2 Wing nuts were like .39 each
12 total nuts at .25 each.
A bit of overkill no doubt and I ended up going back for a 5" bolt for the end that holds the base-it was just a bit too close to the top rail for my liking.
I briefly toyed with a ($23) boxed piece of steel with pre-drilled holes but they did not line up to the spacing of the holes atop the ARB.
On to the pics:
okay this first pic I have already removed the base end and the Hi Lift is resting level. It's quite simple to "pull the pin" at the base and I was testing the fitment to see if I could clear the hood. I am thinking if I would get rid of the bug shield at leading edge of hood it might clear but then again maybe not... The silver metal immediately about the license plate is where the Firestik screws in and no interference there.
Attachments
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
more pics with closeups of the hardware
As Shawn stated- two nuts meet the bolt head underneath the ARB mount point. Also a washer under there to close the hole up and ensure a good seal of the nuts to bottom side of the bracket.
Underside of the bracket shown....
then the next pic shows the 2 nuts atop the bracket-that may be overkill but I like the idea of the nuts tightening against one another. Again a washer is used under those to close up the bracket hole.
As Shawn stated- two nuts meet the bolt head underneath the ARB mount point. Also a washer under there to close the hole up and ensure a good seal of the nuts to bottom side of the bracket.
Underside of the bracket shown....
then the next pic shows the 2 nuts atop the bracket-that may be overkill but I like the idea of the nuts tightening against one another. Again a washer is used under those to close up the bracket hole.
Attachments
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
moving on to the leveling of the Hi Lift
Then I used 2 more nuts to determine how far down the bolt the Hi Lift would sit on the bolt. Again probably overkill but I prefer to have the friction of the 2 nuts working against one another to ensure no movement. A washer atop those 2 nuts provides a larger resting surface for the bottom of the Hi Lift jack.
I used a box end wrench along the way underneath the mounting tab to tighten the bolt head and bottom pair of nuts against the upper nuts and washer to fit tightly to the mounts. Another 9/16 wrench on the top nuts to cinch everything down in place. Similar procedure to tighten the height nuts against one another.
Then I used 2 more nuts to determine how far down the bolt the Hi Lift would sit on the bolt. Again probably overkill but I prefer to have the friction of the 2 nuts working against one another to ensure no movement. A washer atop those 2 nuts provides a larger resting surface for the bottom of the Hi Lift jack.
I used a box end wrench along the way underneath the mounting tab to tighten the bolt head and bottom pair of nuts against the upper nuts and washer to fit tightly to the mounts. Another 9/16 wrench on the top nuts to cinch everything down in place. Similar procedure to tighten the height nuts against one another.
Attachments
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
top side of the Hi Lift now
The top side mount is the wing nut with a washer. Another nut would probably not be a bad idea here also. But I was looking to make it "tool free" for removal, and easy to get at in case I need to check the oil or something under the hood.
While at the hardware store I also entertained the idea of using some garage door track mounts to make a bump forward so the Hi Lift would not interfere with the hood. But I was trying to stay under $10 like the Texan showed me....
I am now changing out the driver's side 4" bolt for a 5" so any moisture that gathers can run down the Hi Lift-away from the base and will allow me to keep the base in place without rubbing against the top bar of the ARB bull bar.
Also not shown is 2 little rubber caps to protect the tops of the bolt threads. Easy to pop on and off-had em laying around the garage so figured why not?
The top side mount is the wing nut with a washer. Another nut would probably not be a bad idea here also. But I was looking to make it "tool free" for removal, and easy to get at in case I need to check the oil or something under the hood.
While at the hardware store I also entertained the idea of using some garage door track mounts to make a bump forward so the Hi Lift would not interfere with the hood. But I was trying to stay under $10 like the Texan showed me....
I am now changing out the driver's side 4" bolt for a 5" so any moisture that gathers can run down the Hi Lift-away from the base and will allow me to keep the base in place without rubbing against the top bar of the ARB bull bar.
Also not shown is 2 little rubber caps to protect the tops of the bolt threads. Easy to pop on and off-had em laying around the garage so figured why not?
Attachments
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
trail use only
Good point TC on the theft issue. Some steel braided cable would likely work but my attitude is this is for use only for when I head up to the hills for trail duty.
If I were to leave my rig unattended I would simply detach the Hi Lift and put inside the vehicle. Definitely would not drive around town with it this way- it would be just a bit too tempting front and center like that. One simple wingnut and it would be gone. Security fasteners came to mind but are just a temporary slowdown to people like us carrying every tool known to mankind. Some of the more hardcore guys carry welders ... anything bolted down is just a few amps from being melted down.
A determined thief can get anything he truly wants given enough time and opportunity. I'm reading about Chicago and the spare tire thieves up there.
Thanks again Shawn for the idea. My dog does not like sharing her space with the Hi Lift....it does not fit real well into the bag with the isolator on there.
Good point TC on the theft issue. Some steel braided cable would likely work but my attitude is this is for use only for when I head up to the hills for trail duty.
If I were to leave my rig unattended I would simply detach the Hi Lift and put inside the vehicle. Definitely would not drive around town with it this way- it would be just a bit too tempting front and center like that. One simple wingnut and it would be gone. Security fasteners came to mind but are just a temporary slowdown to people like us carrying every tool known to mankind. Some of the more hardcore guys carry welders ... anything bolted down is just a few amps from being melted down.
A determined thief can get anything he truly wants given enough time and opportunity. I'm reading about Chicago and the spare tire thieves up there.
Thanks again Shawn for the idea. My dog does not like sharing her space with the Hi Lift....it does not fit real well into the bag with the isolator on there.
shawnstcyr
New member
The Texan wants to know if that shiny spot on the front of your jack is from his lift install :0 Good job, Ron. A little overkill, but that's just how you roll!
Duhockey
Senior Member
LOL, Ron is the best!! I see you have your Hi-lift protected from the bad thieves!!
but what about your shackles/d-ringz?? are they locked down??
the funny thing is I was worried about my spare tire, til I realized that only a few would have the courage to steal a 6.5 on 5 wheel and even fewer would try to get a heavy @ss one off my roof rack after fighting with a bike lock!
LOL
that being said, I have seen zillions of offroad vehicles with unsecured d-rings for the taking and still spent 12$ a piece on my two...
I think the hi lift is fine as long as it looks attached...
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
did not even notice until the pics
Yeah SSC that bit of scrape off on the Hi Lift is from your install at my garage. I never even noticed that until the pics were posted up. Hey at least it gets some use....
Shon- du hockey-was that a couple of great Stanley Cup hockey games so far or what? That first game I couldn't even go to the bathroom someone was scoring every minute it seemed like.
I think I should paint those shackles that "breast cancer pink" just to eliminate all theft potential...
Yeah SSC that bit of scrape off on the Hi Lift is from your install at my garage. I never even noticed that until the pics were posted up. Hey at least it gets some use....
Shon- du hockey-was that a couple of great Stanley Cup hockey games so far or what? That first game I couldn't even go to the bathroom someone was scoring every minute it seemed like.
I think I should paint those shackles that "breast cancer pink" just to eliminate all theft potential...
Spencer
New member
lool
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
great idea TC4Rnr on the rubber bushing.
I have the base "jiggle" that kind of drove me batty. I just remove it and carry it with my shackles and other recovery gear.
I have the base "jiggle" that kind of drove me batty. I just remove it and carry it with my shackles and other recovery gear.
Ron Helmuth
Senior Member
Shawn's invention-I just copied on it.
Has held up very well but I only put my hi lift on it for the occasional off road trip.
Has held up very well but I only put my hi lift on it for the occasional off road trip.
