Seattle206
Senior Member
Thought I should post it here as this thread is more appropriate and useful here than in the 5th Gen Forum.
My 4Runner is a 2014 with 43k miles, noticed that my driver side front axle seal developed a leak. The front diff seal area and skid plate was soiled with gear oil. I do take it through forest roads, off-road vehicle parks, pools, mud and sand quite often which may have contributed to such an early seal failure. Built up mud, dirt and grit can lodge in there creating a leak. I had my driver side rear axle seal go out a month earlier which cost me new parking brake shoes, axle seal and bearing assembly. Quite costly to repair as I don’t have a 40 ton shop press and specialty bearing tools laying in my garage. Be careful with those seals if you ever do any axle work and make sure your differential breathers aren't clogged! You might be driving around with a leaking axle seal without knowing it. I'd recommend replacing the seal as soon ASAP to minimize the risk of oil starvation to your differentials.
Tried going through Toyota of Seattle and Michael’s Toyota of Bellevue hoping that my repairs would be covered under the 60k/5 year powertrain warranty. Nope, null and void with both dealerships due to "Vehicle is heavily modified in affected areas".
Not sure how many of you 5th gen owners have experienced axle seal leaks but they will happen as these vehicles age. The more you take these things off pavement the higher the chances a leak will develop. The labor is somewhat involved and time consuming but any green shade home mechanic can do it with relative ease. Most independent shops or dealers will charge $200-$400 to replace an axle seal. You can do it yourself for just the cost of a new OEM seal at $15.
I just did the job which took about 2 hours at a relaxed pace.
Front Axle Seal DIY Tools & Parts:
35mm Socket
19mm Socket
17mm Socket
12mm Socket
10mm Socket
3/8” and 1/2” Socket Wrench
1/2” Breaker Bar
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer(s): Dead Blow, Rubber Mallet, or Drilling Hammer
Pry bar
Pitman Arm Puller
Torque Wrench rated up to 175ft/lbs
Anti-Seize
Blue Thread locker
Seal Puller
1/2” Impact Driver or Impact Wrench (not necessary but makes things quicker)
2” Diameter PVC Coupler
LH Front Axle Seal P# 90311-47027 or P# 90311-47013 for RH Seal
Inner Axle Dust Shield P# 41336-35020 (if needed)
Hub Grease Cap P# 43514-28010 (if needed)
GL-5 75W-85 or Equivalent Gear Oil
1) Place vehicle on 4 jack stands, make sure surface is level for an even differential drain/fill. Remove tire, front skid, and drain diff. See diff fluid drain DIY below.
2) Use your 3/8” wrench and 10mm socket to disconnect ABS sensor, place aside so it doesn’t get stretched. Unbolt brake line bracket from spindle with 12mm socket. Remove the endlink's top nut with 17mm socket and pull it out the spindle. Unbolting the brake line bracket and endlink gives you more wiggle room to get the CV out.
3) Remove dust cap from wheel hub with flathead and hammer. I destroyed my dust cap getting it off but it’s a cheap part to replace. Remove cotter pin with pliers and wheel hub nut with 35mm socket and breaker bar, my impact wrench made easy work of it. Keep in 4LO if you’re working by yourself or have somebody hold the brake pedal and steering wheel.
4) Unbolt the two lower LCA bolts with 19mm socket.
5) Remove cotter pin and tie-rod castle nut with 19mm socket. Try to hammer out the tie-rod. If stubborn, use the arm puller to get tie-rod out.
6) Use dead blow or rubber mallet and whack the axle face a couple times. Careful not to damage the threads. Use the hub nut as a thread protector. If it’s stubborn, hit with a drilling hammer.
7) Put some muscle in and pull hub assembly out and work out the CV axle. It will come out with enough force but be careful with not damaging the hub's rubber seals. Secure the hub to the side (bungee cords) so it stays out of your work space. Watch that brake line.
8) Have some cardboard or your drip pan as this part gets messy if you haven't drained your diff. Use your pry bar and work out the CV half axle at the differential. If your CV isn’t straight and parallel you will have difficulty getting it out. You can have extra hands hold up the outer CV end as you pry at the axle. Careful not to damage the thin metal dust cap/flange. If you do happen to bend the shit out it you can replace with part# 41336-35020. Once you see the axle pop at the diff, continue to work slowly it until you can pull it out.
9) Examine your seal orientation and take note of how deep it was pressed in from the factory. Try using some digital calipers if you can or get creative. Even take a picture for future references. Mine was flush with inner diff housing from the factory.
10) Use the seal puller and yank the old seal out. Careful not to damage the metal seal housing inside the diff. Now clean the seal housing with a new rag.
11) Grease up your new seal with some MP grease or gear oil. Remember, the “big lip” side of the seal faces out from the diff. Press in the seal by hand. Take a 2” metal or pvc coupler and gently tap in the seal. Tap the seal until it is flush with the seal housing. It took a couple of times to get the seal in properly. Examine and make sure the seal in there evenly and square. If not, you’re going have to pry it out, risk damaging the seal and re-do it. I had to back it out a little using the seal puller but wrapped the sharp ends with black electrical tape.
12) To re-install the CV, have somebody help you hold your CV axle straight and parallel to the ground, makes things easier but with enough experience it can be done solo. Lube up and align splines. Make sure the C-Clip opening is facing down as you insert axle back into diff. Be careful not to damage or dislodge the new seal. Exert a bit of force to pop the axle back in. Might take a few tries but once it locks in, you’re good.
13) Re-install the wheel hub assembly, tie-rod, LCA. Torque LCA bolts 118ft/lbs with some blue loctite, tie-rod nut to 67 ft/lbs, re-insert cotter pin. Re-install endlink at 52ft/lbs and brake line bracket (snug tight). Torque the wheel hub nut to 174ft/lbs. Re-mount ABS sensor.
14) Re-install wheel and torque to 83ft/lbs.
Front Differential Fluid DIY Tools & Parts:
1/2” Socket Wrench and breaker bar
10mm Allen Socket
Torque wrench
x1 90430-24003(Copper) for Drain
x1 12157-10010 (Silver) for Fill
1.50 to 1.60 liters of 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent (I used Valvoline 75W-90 Conventional)
1) Since you already have vehicle on all four jack stands and skid plate off.
2) Remove fill bolt with 10mm allen socket and set it aside. Remove drain bolt with 10mm allen socket. Drain and replace with copper washer part # 90430-24003. Torque bolt to 48ft/lbs. *Your fill/drain plugs may be seized and you will strip them for sure. The day before you tackle this job, spray the plugs with PB Blaster. Spray again as you begin the job. Heat up the plugs with a torch for 5-10 minutes and give them a few whacks with a ball peen hammer. If you can't get them off even with a breaker bar, try using an impact wrench. Worst case is that your can chisel if off or tack weld a nut onto the plug and wrench it off. The factory 10mm hex plugs are a horrible, and cheap design. Be sure to have your replacement plugs ready and may sure to apply some anti-seize on the threads and around the plug washers.
3) Pump 75W-85 gear oil in until it runs from the fill hole. Replace with silver washer part # 12157-10010. Torque bolt to 29ft/lbs.
4) Test drive a bit and ensure there are no leaks from your from drain bolt or axle seal. Re-install your skid plates.
Evidence of axle seal leak.
Drain your front diff so the job is less messy.
43k miles, black oil and a collection of shavings and nasty bits.
Undo that ABS sensor. Unbolt brake line bracket with 12mm socket. Unbolt endlink's top bolt with 17mm socket and pull it out.
Remove hub cap, cotter pin and hub nut.
Give the face a couple whacks with a hammer. You should put the hub nut back on as a thread protector.
Undo tie-rod cotter pin, bolt and use arm puller to pop off tie-rod. All done with a 19mm socket. I used this pitman arm puller https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7768071
LCA is held on by two 19mm bolts.
Pull wheel hub off axle and work the half axle out.
Pry axle, careful not to damage that metal dust cap.
Axle pops out of diff.
Set your CV axle aside and clean it up.
Old seal and how it was pressed from the factory. Mine was pretty gunked up.
My 4Runner is a 2014 with 43k miles, noticed that my driver side front axle seal developed a leak. The front diff seal area and skid plate was soiled with gear oil. I do take it through forest roads, off-road vehicle parks, pools, mud and sand quite often which may have contributed to such an early seal failure. Built up mud, dirt and grit can lodge in there creating a leak. I had my driver side rear axle seal go out a month earlier which cost me new parking brake shoes, axle seal and bearing assembly. Quite costly to repair as I don’t have a 40 ton shop press and specialty bearing tools laying in my garage. Be careful with those seals if you ever do any axle work and make sure your differential breathers aren't clogged! You might be driving around with a leaking axle seal without knowing it. I'd recommend replacing the seal as soon ASAP to minimize the risk of oil starvation to your differentials.
Tried going through Toyota of Seattle and Michael’s Toyota of Bellevue hoping that my repairs would be covered under the 60k/5 year powertrain warranty. Nope, null and void with both dealerships due to "Vehicle is heavily modified in affected areas".
Not sure how many of you 5th gen owners have experienced axle seal leaks but they will happen as these vehicles age. The more you take these things off pavement the higher the chances a leak will develop. The labor is somewhat involved and time consuming but any green shade home mechanic can do it with relative ease. Most independent shops or dealers will charge $200-$400 to replace an axle seal. You can do it yourself for just the cost of a new OEM seal at $15.
I just did the job which took about 2 hours at a relaxed pace.
Front Axle Seal DIY Tools & Parts:
35mm Socket
19mm Socket
17mm Socket
12mm Socket
10mm Socket
3/8” and 1/2” Socket Wrench
1/2” Breaker Bar
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer(s): Dead Blow, Rubber Mallet, or Drilling Hammer
Pry bar
Pitman Arm Puller
Torque Wrench rated up to 175ft/lbs
Anti-Seize
Blue Thread locker
Seal Puller
1/2” Impact Driver or Impact Wrench (not necessary but makes things quicker)
2” Diameter PVC Coupler
LH Front Axle Seal P# 90311-47027 or P# 90311-47013 for RH Seal
Inner Axle Dust Shield P# 41336-35020 (if needed)
Hub Grease Cap P# 43514-28010 (if needed)
GL-5 75W-85 or Equivalent Gear Oil
1) Place vehicle on 4 jack stands, make sure surface is level for an even differential drain/fill. Remove tire, front skid, and drain diff. See diff fluid drain DIY below.
2) Use your 3/8” wrench and 10mm socket to disconnect ABS sensor, place aside so it doesn’t get stretched. Unbolt brake line bracket from spindle with 12mm socket. Remove the endlink's top nut with 17mm socket and pull it out the spindle. Unbolting the brake line bracket and endlink gives you more wiggle room to get the CV out.
3) Remove dust cap from wheel hub with flathead and hammer. I destroyed my dust cap getting it off but it’s a cheap part to replace. Remove cotter pin with pliers and wheel hub nut with 35mm socket and breaker bar, my impact wrench made easy work of it. Keep in 4LO if you’re working by yourself or have somebody hold the brake pedal and steering wheel.
4) Unbolt the two lower LCA bolts with 19mm socket.
5) Remove cotter pin and tie-rod castle nut with 19mm socket. Try to hammer out the tie-rod. If stubborn, use the arm puller to get tie-rod out.
6) Use dead blow or rubber mallet and whack the axle face a couple times. Careful not to damage the threads. Use the hub nut as a thread protector. If it’s stubborn, hit with a drilling hammer.
7) Put some muscle in and pull hub assembly out and work out the CV axle. It will come out with enough force but be careful with not damaging the hub's rubber seals. Secure the hub to the side (bungee cords) so it stays out of your work space. Watch that brake line.
8) Have some cardboard or your drip pan as this part gets messy if you haven't drained your diff. Use your pry bar and work out the CV half axle at the differential. If your CV isn’t straight and parallel you will have difficulty getting it out. You can have extra hands hold up the outer CV end as you pry at the axle. Careful not to damage the thin metal dust cap/flange. If you do happen to bend the shit out it you can replace with part# 41336-35020. Once you see the axle pop at the diff, continue to work slowly it until you can pull it out.
9) Examine your seal orientation and take note of how deep it was pressed in from the factory. Try using some digital calipers if you can or get creative. Even take a picture for future references. Mine was flush with inner diff housing from the factory.
10) Use the seal puller and yank the old seal out. Careful not to damage the metal seal housing inside the diff. Now clean the seal housing with a new rag.
11) Grease up your new seal with some MP grease or gear oil. Remember, the “big lip” side of the seal faces out from the diff. Press in the seal by hand. Take a 2” metal or pvc coupler and gently tap in the seal. Tap the seal until it is flush with the seal housing. It took a couple of times to get the seal in properly. Examine and make sure the seal in there evenly and square. If not, you’re going have to pry it out, risk damaging the seal and re-do it. I had to back it out a little using the seal puller but wrapped the sharp ends with black electrical tape.
12) To re-install the CV, have somebody help you hold your CV axle straight and parallel to the ground, makes things easier but with enough experience it can be done solo. Lube up and align splines. Make sure the C-Clip opening is facing down as you insert axle back into diff. Be careful not to damage or dislodge the new seal. Exert a bit of force to pop the axle back in. Might take a few tries but once it locks in, you’re good.
13) Re-install the wheel hub assembly, tie-rod, LCA. Torque LCA bolts 118ft/lbs with some blue loctite, tie-rod nut to 67 ft/lbs, re-insert cotter pin. Re-install endlink at 52ft/lbs and brake line bracket (snug tight). Torque the wheel hub nut to 174ft/lbs. Re-mount ABS sensor.
14) Re-install wheel and torque to 83ft/lbs.
Front Differential Fluid DIY Tools & Parts:
1/2” Socket Wrench and breaker bar
10mm Allen Socket
Torque wrench
x1 90430-24003(Copper) for Drain
x1 12157-10010 (Silver) for Fill
1.50 to 1.60 liters of 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent (I used Valvoline 75W-90 Conventional)
1) Since you already have vehicle on all four jack stands and skid plate off.
2) Remove fill bolt with 10mm allen socket and set it aside. Remove drain bolt with 10mm allen socket. Drain and replace with copper washer part # 90430-24003. Torque bolt to 48ft/lbs. *Your fill/drain plugs may be seized and you will strip them for sure. The day before you tackle this job, spray the plugs with PB Blaster. Spray again as you begin the job. Heat up the plugs with a torch for 5-10 minutes and give them a few whacks with a ball peen hammer. If you can't get them off even with a breaker bar, try using an impact wrench. Worst case is that your can chisel if off or tack weld a nut onto the plug and wrench it off. The factory 10mm hex plugs are a horrible, and cheap design. Be sure to have your replacement plugs ready and may sure to apply some anti-seize on the threads and around the plug washers.
3) Pump 75W-85 gear oil in until it runs from the fill hole. Replace with silver washer part # 12157-10010. Torque bolt to 29ft/lbs.
4) Test drive a bit and ensure there are no leaks from your from drain bolt or axle seal. Re-install your skid plates.
Evidence of axle seal leak.
Drain your front diff so the job is less messy.
43k miles, black oil and a collection of shavings and nasty bits.
Undo that ABS sensor. Unbolt brake line bracket with 12mm socket. Unbolt endlink's top bolt with 17mm socket and pull it out.
Remove hub cap, cotter pin and hub nut.
Give the face a couple whacks with a hammer. You should put the hub nut back on as a thread protector.
Undo tie-rod cotter pin, bolt and use arm puller to pop off tie-rod. All done with a 19mm socket. I used this pitman arm puller https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7768071
LCA is held on by two 19mm bolts.
Pull wheel hub off axle and work the half axle out.
Pry axle, careful not to damage that metal dust cap.
Axle pops out of diff.
Set your CV axle aside and clean it up.
Old seal and how it was pressed from the factory. Mine was pretty gunked up.
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