5th gen brake upgrades?

jetblack3s

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I am trying to upgrade my brakes to compensate for the 35" tires and additional heavy weight mods. I couldn't find brake upgrade write ups on the 5th gen. I am thinking a tundra brake swap or aftermarket, what are my options and also any link to the write up would be much appreciated
 
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I am trying to upgrade my brakes to compensate for the 35" tires and additional heavy weight mods. I couldn't find brake upgrade write ups on the 5th gen. I am thinking a tundra brake swap or aftermarket, what are my options and also any link to the write up would be much appreciated

Are you having trouble stopping now? Have you exceeded the max weight fully loaded?

We have a lot of guys here with a lot of weight added and are running stock brakes with no issues.

I have pulled 4.5K trailer with only surge brakes and again had no problems.

If you Google 5th gen 4Runner big brake kit you will have many hits.
 
The only real "upgrades" are stainless steel lines, new rotors, and more "performance" oriented brake pads.

Also, my 4th gen is rockin' 35's and it stops pretty well with the factory brakes. The 5th gen's have the slightly larger pistons than the 4th gens.
 
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The only real "upgrades" are stainless steel lines, new rotors, and more "performance" oriented brake pads.

Also, my 4th gen is rockin' 35's and it stops pretty well with the factory brakes. The 5th gen's have the slightly larger pistons than the 4th gens.


Before you upgrade calipers, try this!

Hawk Superduty Pads, Goodridge Stainless Lines, DBA 4000 Rotors. This setup stop quicker, bites much harder.
 
Before you upgrade calipers, try this!

Hawk Superduty Pads, Goodridge Stainless Lines, DBA 4000 Rotors. This setup stop quicker, bites much harder.

That was the plan along with new 5th gen calipers for a little extra piston size, figure that's about as good as it'll get. :)
 
Before you upgrade calipers, try this!

Hawk Superduty Pads, Goodridge Stainless Lines, DBA 4000 Rotors. This setup stop quicker, bites much harder.

This right here!

I try and use Hawk pads every time I swap brake pads. And if you're worried about (insert technical term for swelling rubber brake lines), get the stainless line, but in general a good set of pads will go miles for improving the stopping power of the car...

....but you can only stop as well as your tires will let you. If the tires are exceeding their traction ability no amount of brake is going to stop you faster.
 
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This right here!

I try and use Hawk pads every time I swap brake pads. And if you're worried about brake fade, get the stainless line, but in general a good set of pads will go miles for improving the stopping power of the car...

....but you can only stop as well as your tires will let you. If the tires are exceeding their traction ability no amount of brake is going to stop you faster.

Stainless lines have nothing to do with brake fade.
 
Good info from AMS Performance

What is Brake Fade?

Brake fade is the term used when there is a reduction in braking power due to excessive heat between your rotor and pad.

Why Does Brake Fade Happen?

Brake fade most commonly happens during high performance driving. During repeated high speed braking events or panic stops, heat builds up in the rotor and pad causing the pad materials to overheat and lose its friction properties. During this type of fade, the brake pedal is firm, but stopping power is reduced. Brake pad fade can be overcome in a variety of ways.
Another Type of Brake Fade

Overheating brake fluid is another common occurrence during track days. Like pad fade, boiling your brake fluid occurs during repeated high speed braking events. During braking, your calipers could reach temperatures in excess of 650 degrees. Brake fluid travels in and out of your calipers to compress and retract the pistons which clasp your brake pads against the rotor. During this process the fluid will boil and expel gas which collects in your brake lines. This in turn creates a spongy/soft pedal. The most effective way to combat this is to regularly bleed or flush your brake fluid with high quality high temp fluid. This is also the only way to remedy overheated brake fluid. The most commonly used fluid is Motul RBF 600.

Brake Pad Break Down

Brake pads are made up of different compounds which result in different characteristics. Standard OEM brake pads are designed to grip at a low operating temperature during daily commutes, while high performance “Track Pads” are designed to accommodate repeated extreme heat braking. Though track pads are great for the road course, they are a nuisance on the street and two separate sets of pads are recommended for avid track day enthusiasts. Track pads have a very high operating temperature which in turn serves no purpose during daily driving. Friction levels (Bite) at low operating temperature is almost non-existent and constant squealing is straining to ears. For people who only attend a few track days a year or drive very spiritedly on the street, a multi-purpose compound may be suitable. Performance Friction has introduced the Metallic Z line of pads. These pads work great for both the street and the occasional track day/AutoX.

Controlling Fade Through Driving Technique

Brake fade can be dramatically reduced through your driving style. Instead of lightly applying the brakes for long intervals, Use short bursts of braking to allow your rotors and pads to avoid extreme temperatures. Engine braking when combined with standard braking is another method that greatly reduces fade however this method comes with experience, we do not recommend this method for novice drivers.

Brake Upgrade Path

Step 1:

High performance brake pads (higher heat coefficients withstand higher heat)
S.S. brake lines (reduce line expansion/safety precaution)
High temp brake fluid (prevents overheating brake fluid)

Step 2:

Slotted rotors (disperse heat more efficiently)
2 piece floating rotors (disperse heat more efficiently/weight savings)
Brake cooling kit (routes air to cooling vanes of rotors to quickly cool down rotor)

Step 3:

Big brake upgrade (larger contact area/greater brake torque/cooling efficiency)
 
It's stops ok in normal driving, emergency braking it's when it feels not right, it's not grabbing very well

Have you ever had the truck engage the emergency standby brake booster (techs forgive me if that terminology is incorrect)? From my experience in a true panic stop situation, depressing the brake pedal fast and far enough will activate a standby booster that stops the vehicle as fast as possible given the traction available. When that happens my concern is not for hitting whatever is in front of me but what may be coming up behind me.. Braking distance is dramatically reduced versus not having it engage. If you're still not stopping well with that kicking on then perhaps you need to look at some of the above options.
 
Have you ever had the truck engage the emergency standby brake booster (techs forgive me if that terminology is incorrect)? From my experience in a true panic stop situation, depressing the brake pedal fast and far enough will activate a standby booster that stops the vehicle as fast as possible given the traction available. When that happens my concern is not for hitting whatever is in front of me but what may be coming up behind me.. Braking distance is dramatically reduced versus not having it engage. If you're still not stopping well with that kicking on then perhaps you need to look at some of the above options.

That emergency braking system with a RTT can be pretty exciting! The system is not calibrated for the increased height of a lifted suspension and increased MOI of a roof top tent. I wish there was a way to recalibrate it. The emergency breaking system does not appear to be improved by the traditional pitch/yaw ECU calibration. It simply gets confused with the increased acceleration of the braking pitch
 
Stainless lines have nothing to do with brake fade.

Correct. The SS lines make the brake pedal feel firmer. They also have the added bonus of being a little bit stronger then rubber if you snag is on something. But they will till rip out if you abuse them.

Brake fade comes from the ability of the braking system to get rid of the heat. The result is the pads can over heat and get glazed or the brake fluid boils or both.

If you switch to a high-temp (decent) brake fluid and some decent pads it should all but kill brake fad. The problem is really stick pads tear up rotors and sounds like a train when you stop.

As stated earlier the braking is limited by the tires. So now you need some R compound Toyos.

I didn't see the original poster saying he had brake fad though.
 

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