5th Gen Calipers

I had a few questions as well, I'm about to order all the parts.

First question
I understand the 5th gen front rotors are bigger, are the 5th gen rears bigger as well?
I'm running an sr5 with smaller rotors so I was just curious if everything is bigger or if it was just the fronts.

Second question
Does modifying the brake dust guard have any negative effects?
I'm fine hacking something up but I was just curious if there's a negative side of modifying the guards.
 
I had a few questions as well, I'm about to order all the parts.

First question
I understand the 5th gen front rotors are bigger, are the 5th gen rears bigger as well?
I'm running an sr5 with smaller rotors so I was just curious if everything is bigger or if it was just the fronts.

Second question
Does modifying the brake dust guard have any negative effects?
I'm fine hacking something up but I was just curious if there's a negative side of modifying the guards.

I think the upgrade to the 5th Gen setup is going to be the same as the upgrade to the 4th Gen Sport setup. Either way, you're swapping rotors and calipers (not sure about the rear rotors being larger, they're the same for the standard and Sport 4th gen setups).

No problem with modifying the dust shields. I bent mine back when I went to the Sport setup on my SR5.
 
Well I ordered a full 5th gen upgrade. F/R calipers, stainless hoses, rotors etc.

We leave Chicago Aug 11th for Seattle. I didn't want to trust my brakes through the mountains so that prompted the upgrade. I'll be off work by then so I should have a few full days off before then to install and test before driving out. Considering I'm in Chicago, rockauto should be able to get my shipment here fairly quick.

** And they already shipped, awesome ***
 
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Well I ordered a full 5th gen upgrade. F/R calipers, stainless hoses, rotors etc.

We leave Chicago Aug 11th for Seattle. I didn't want to trust my brakes through the mountains so that prompted the upgrade. I'll be off work by then so I should have a few full days off before then to install and test before driving out. Considering I'm in Chicago, rockauto should be able to get my shipment here fairly quick.

** And they already shipped, awesome ***

A fellow chicagoian? Well hell let me know if you up for a observer or just a wise ass to pass the time. kind of curious how it goes for you before I do it.
 
So I looked on car-part.com and it seems that you don't have to buy new? They show that for a 2014 4Runner the caliper is the same for basically 2000s sequoia and tundra? But when I look up part numbers the ones from Partznet are different. Could this be due to toyota's new part numbering so people don't interchange?
 
No idea. I ordered mine (centric reman. for 2010-15) from rock auto, same as the original poster. Prices were good and everything was in stock. Shipped same day and should have everything within a week.

Code 2 I might take you up on that. Hard part is that I have to do this at my in laws in the west burbs to take advantage of their garage. I really wish I had a garage in the city.

Three shipments coming.

30lbs
50 lbs
39 lbs.

Jesus I have no idea how this doesn't cost more to ship.
 
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No idea. I ordered mine (centric reman. for 2010-15) from rock auto, same as the original poster. Prices were good and everything was in stock. Shipped same day and should have everything within a week.

Code 2 I might take you up on that. Hard part is that I have to do this at my in laws in the west burbs to take advantage of their garage. I really wish I had a garage in the city.

Three shipments coming.

30lbs
50 lbs
39 lbs.

Jesus I have no idea how this doesn't cost more to ship.

Let me know it will give me a reason to take to on of three motorcycles sitting in my garage for a change
 
Had my front and rear 5th gen calipers and rotors replaced today. Also threw on some new Akebono pads. Works great. Props to the OP for trying this, hopefully I don't have anymore frozen calipers.
 
Well I am at a lose order centric rotors as per their page and part number matching my caliper cat number.

Put new pads in, put rotors on put tire on and now the tires won't turn freely

I am so pissed right now.

so anyone have an idea what is causing not one but both front tires to not spin
 
LOL well it turns out the both brand new rotors are WARPED big time.

Well centric had one chance and they are now added to the list of never purchase from again. Would have been fine with 1 out of 2 being warped but 2 out of 2 is just sealed the deal.


Here is a video of the old rotor notice it spins straight, then the centric rotor spins all crazy

Since i have no idea how to insert a youtube video here is the link for the video

https://youtu.be/8oJ69X2mSKw
 
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It looks to me like they arent seated right. Even the hub of it is moving back and forth. Not just that but big chunks of metal dont warp like that. How do they look when you put them on a table or other flat surface?
 
It looks to me like they arent seated right. Even the hub of it is moving back and forth. Not just that but big chunks of metal dont warp like that. How do they look when you put them on a table or other flat surface?

Never had that issue before seating a rotor but I see what you are saying now that I actually watched that video again after banging my head and hanging out with the women for a bit. I tried both new ones on both sides with the same out come. They for some reason won't seat correctly and once you put the brakes on then the tire it complex locked the tires.

I ended up just running to auto zone and grabbing some rotors for temp use until the brembo ones I ordered arrive in a week or so. And this is why I prefer to work on my motorcycles over cars cause there is never these issues like with cars.

Bugs me cause i compared the with the old one prior to putting them on holes lined up same size outer and inner not sure why its being difficult.
 
Just picked up some Napa premium pads, anti seize, another can of pb blaster and some sway bar bushings. Waiting on my brake parts to show up today ...

And they arrived.

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And they're on.

Holy god was that a process. Glad I'm moving away from the Midwest, my future cars will thank me. The rust that accumulates in a few years is mind boggling. Start to finish it took about 8 hours and only 2 trips to auto zone. The worst part was running into seized bolts. Stripped the bolt head that secures the bracket for the brake lines. Had to grind it down from 12mm and hammer on an 11mm socket to get it off.

Installed stainless lines in the rear. Should have done fronts as well but they were back ordered.

Breaker bar came in handy, as did my cordless impact wrench, as did the 2 cans of pb blaster, brake cleaner, anti seize and brake fluid.

Only had to trim the front dust shields, rears were good as is. Dremel was useful for that as it was easy to get in tight.

Wheels were on good and took forever to get off. Rotors were another huge pain in the ass. Neat trick is to use the threaded holes to remove them. Screw in the bolts and they push the rotors off.

It was hot as balls in the garage, it rained and cooled of later though. I jumped in the pool immediately after.

The difference left me speechless. Silent smooth and solid braking. No more pulsation. Whew. After all that I didn't even bother with the sway bushings.

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Put some antiseize on those hubs -- it will make it easier to get the wheels off next time you rotate them.
 
I hope you did the bedding correctly

I hate using anti seize spray I found it much fast and easier to heat the rusted bolts up for a minute or two and poor they come right off
 
So roughly a week after driving with the 5th gen upgrade, probably the best money I will ever spend on that vehicle.

The braking is incredibly smooth and no more pulsation thank god, the last month was really annoying every time I pulled up to a stop light. It also feels as if there's more braking power as well. They don't feel touchy at all, just more solid overall. Lots of modulation and its smooth the whole way through. Also did away with the clunk sound when starting from a stop (which I thought was the drivetrain clunk) but come to find out was just a sticky caliper.

Printing out my core return slips at the moment to send back to Rock auto. I chose to use shipping labels from Rock auto as they were significantly cheaper to do than trying to ship on your own. My rears are going to Phoenix and fronts to California so they're in 2 separate shipments. $11 for the rears and $12 for the fronts. The core charges for all 4 calipers came out to just around $300 so to lose $24 to ship 50 lbs of car parts across the country didn't seem that bad.
 
I hate using anti seize spray I found it much fast and easier to heat the rusted bolts up for a minute or two and poor they come right off

I'm talking about spreading anti-seize grease on the hub. You do that when you have the wheel off.

Anti-seize grease != various penetrating sprays.
 

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