5th Gen Calipers
- Thread starter 084RUNNAH
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Dry-fly
Member
I've seen and quoted this to mechanics around here. They're clueless, literally.
chayos00
New member
Why the want for slotted rotors? They really best come into play for racing type of situations. Doubt you are doing that with your 4runner.
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Zeusmotorworks
New member
Very true... I always even for the Street Evos suggested Centric Premium blank rotors and Ferodo DS 2500 pads. Badass street combo, but even if they make those pads for FJs, they are over kill, and probably over $300 and axle set.
Dry-fly,
Sux if you can't find a mechanic in the know. I would suggest finding your local SCCA (autocross) group and find out who they use. Like here, often they will find someone who knows what the hell they are doing (not trained to regurgitate someone else's opinions/sequence of tasks and spiel), and stick to that person. Here, it's a master tech at a chain shop who does what the customer asks if it's reasonable. Sets alignments to race settings vs OE spec and that like. Good hunting, just wanted to pass the info out there. I do my own work or use that guy as I don't trust anyone these days to wrench on my vehicles two OR four wheels. Hell, you might find someone like me in your area that does this stuff on the side if you ask around enough.
<edit> <edit> FYI local guys, I'm not for hire anymore... too old, kills my back.</edit>
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HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
The effectiveness of slotted rotors also come into play during braking emergencies while on the street. DBA testing shows an average difference of 2.2m in braking distance between conventional and slotted rotors and from a speed of 100 km/h or about 55 mph.
Can I expect dramatically improved braking from slotted or cross-drilled rotors? - Disc Brakes Australia
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Zeusmotorworks
New member
For the most part, advertising. Pad compound selection will have FAR greater impact on street performance. Friction coefficient and heat tolerance.
I'm considering this upgrade but first I wanted justification that I needed it. When i'm going 55+ and apply the brakes, the steering wheel shakes/vibrates. However, just cruising around town, the brakes operate normally. It's only highway speeds this happens. Also, it doesn't seem to pull to one side or the other.
At first I thought the rotors were 'warped' but that means it would vibrate at all speeds, not just highway. My next guess is I have pistons frozen in both front calipers.
what do you guys think?
At first I thought the rotors were 'warped' but that means it would vibrate at all speeds, not just highway. My next guess is I have pistons frozen in both front calipers.
what do you guys think?
this. ditto on my street / track car, 24hrs lemons car, etc. the actual racing brakes you see w slots are rarely straight slots (ie alcons 'j hooks') which prevent pedal pulsing as the slot passes the pad. as said any racing brake system is being completely overhauled every race.
in general, what works on race cars rarely makes sense on street cars. very difference design parameters and engineering solutions. also there are currently zero cars coming from oem's with drilled/slotted rotors afaik.
the rotor (at street temps) is a heatsink, converting kinetic enrgy into heat. more material = more dissipation capability. drilling holes / slots reduces this ability and weakens the rotor.
http://stoptech.com/docs/media-center-documents/the-physics-of-braking-systems
Also the fact I read they make the brake pads wear out quicker. Its mostly for looks or bragging rights. trimming or cutting it would be hard as well if taken to a local parts store.
Rannd
New member
Exactly. It is really for race teams who replace rotors after every session... holes in the brakes help reduce mass. Doesn't hurt if you replace pads and rotors after every race haha
Rannd
New member
Sounds exactly like what happened with my bad caliper. If it was the rotor it would be happening all the time at all speeds
mavrick1903
New member
Could be a wheel bearing. Those can respond differently at different speeds. Easy check: while doing city speeds do a controlled slalom. If you hear the wheel, when you're veering left, it's the right bearing under load. Opposite for left bearing.
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chayos00
New member
The best way I've been able to tell is doing this next to some road barrier like those concrete ones as it helps reflect the noise pretty well to help actually hear them.
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I installed a front leveling kit this weekend so I had a chance to check out the brakes. To my surprise, all the pads look to be wearing evenly. I guess next thing to do is drive beside a wall and see which bearing is going out.
RadRunner14
New member
Mine did the exact same thing.. put a lift and bigger tires on with new wheels and it went away... idk how or why but I
Not asking questions [emoji23]
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Just shipped out my old calliper cores to Rockauto today. I remember people complaining about the shipping cost, so I already had 4 flat shipping rate boxes labeled for USPS which would cost around $70 total. I figure I go ask UPS for the heck of it and it was only $40. I am very pleased with the price, but your location also is the primary factor in the shipping cost.
Thank god I am not living on the far east states in New York or Florida, I can only imagine the costs being higher shipping from there. The Rockauto returns department is in Phoenix, so it was cheap sending it back from Vegas.
Hope this helps future users who are swapping their calipers and returning their cores to Rockauto.
Thank god I am not living on the far east states in New York or Florida, I can only imagine the costs being higher shipping from there. The Rockauto returns department is in Phoenix, so it was cheap sending it back from Vegas.
Hope this helps future users who are swapping their calipers and returning their cores to Rockauto.
jfry008
New member
You can send back 'cores' by printing return labels through the rockauto website.
chayos00
New member
they still charge money though, it isn't free. Supposedly they will give you a cheaper printing label, but I didn't want to gamble on it. Too late now as it has already shipped!
BTW, I did the zero calibration on my unit and it still came back on for the VSC and VSC TRAC off lights . Even the mechanic tried resetting to no avail. Is there another issue with it? Also, with the VSC lights on. Does it affect my braking? Cause I am not sure if the VSC lights is the thing holding back the braking power on the new 5th gen calipers.
