5th gen Fluid Film - What non obvious areas should be sprayed?

[krole]

For those that have used Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. Are there any non obvious, hard to reach areas that are important to get sprayed?

So far I basically just removed the spare tire then sprayed pretty much everywhere underneath the car (besides deliberately on the exhaust).

Any areas where something needs to be removed and sprayed? Like in fender, rocker panel cover, door, etc? Is spraying in the holes on the bottom of the door enough? Don't really want to remove door panels and/or drill holes.

 

[Too Stroked]

First, you don't want to spray it on the exhaust. It'll burn right off, but it will be one hell of a smoke show. The fact that it burns right off is why you don't want to waste your time there.

As for areas to get, remember, rust generally starts where water and road salt get into a semi-closed area, then sit. So, any closed area such as frame box sections, inside the rockers, down into seams, etc. is very important. Pull the access panels at rear sides of the vehicle and spray down into the seams along the wheel well lip and bottom of the quarter panels.

Yes, you can spray the inner door areas by using the drain holes at the bottom of the door, but make sure you spray both forward and back to make sure the entire bottom of the door is covered. Also make sure you don't spray so much in as to block any drains. Same goes for the hood and hatch. Speaking of the hatch, the latch and striker mechanisms are also important to hit.

One other area many people forget is the spare tire lift mechanism.

 

[krole]

First, you don't want to spray it on the exhaust. It'll burn right off, but it will be one hell of a smoke show. The fact that it burns right off is why you don't want to waste your time there.

As for areas to get, remember, rust generally starts where water and road salt get into a semi-closed area, then sit. So, any closed area such as frame box sections, inside the rockers, down into seams, etc. is very important. Pull the access panels at rear sides of the vehicle and spray down into the seams along the wheel well lip and bottom of the quarter panels.

Yes, you can spray the inner door areas by using the drain holes at the bottom of the door, but make sure you spray both forward and back to make sure the entire bottom of the door is covered. Also make sure you don't spray so much in as to block any drains. Same goes for the hood and hatch. Speaking of the hatch, the latch and striker mechanisms are also important to hit.

One other area many people forget is the spare tire lift mechanism.

Ah, so spray the quarter panel, wheel well area from the inside access panels. Not sure why I didn't think of that.

Mostly just overspray got on the exhaust.

So I think I got

1. pretty much everywhere underneath besides exhaust (including spare tire lift mechanism and inside frame)
2. suspension components and everything around there (not on brakes)
3. rocker panel (removing rocker panel covers and spraying inside and painted metal area
4. inside doors
5. inside hood and hood latch
6. inside rear hatch and latch
7. quarter panel/rear wheel well area from the inside access panels

 

[Pedro367]

You'd be amazed at how this stuff stays on in the areas that are "less direct" to water and whatnot. I did mine professionally two years and 15k miles ago and the frame is still plenty coated towards the middle and rear of the vehicle, with the exception of the bottom of the frame and rear axle. Do a great job with it once and it will pay it forward. Then touch up every year where you need to before salt season. Maybe go back to the pros every 3rd or 4th year. That's my plan anyway.

 

[<<<<]

Do not spray Spring Perch in the back unless you want to have constant creaking sound there once dirt mixed with fluid film product accumulates there. Don't ask how I know this.

 

[krole]

You'd be amazed at how this stuff stays on in the areas that are "less direct" to water and whatnot. I did mine professionally two years and 15k miles ago and the frame is still plenty coated towards the middle and rear of the vehicle, with the exception of the bottom of the frame and rear axle. Do a great job with it once and it will pay it forward. Then touch up every year where you need to before salt season. Maybe go back to the pros every 3rd or 4th year. That's my plan anyway.

Full disclouser, this is actually my second year applying Woolwax. Last year I basically just did everything underneath, I didn't bother with hood, doors, hatch, inside rocker area. There was quite a bit still applied underneath this year.

Do not spray Spring Perch in the back unless you want to have constant creaking sound there once dirt mixed with fluid film product accumulates there. Don't ask how I know this.

Pretty sure it's too late for that. Haven't noticed any noise yet though.

 

[Bee Guy]

Spraying on protection - Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc...

Not quite at the DIY level - no experience, no facilities, but willing to learn! - So who are the "Pros" for my first application? Are we talking Line-x?

 

[StaccySpeck]

The license plate bolt holes tend to rust so I make sure to hit them yearly.

 

[3rd-genner]

Good info here, I am planning to do this on my new 5th gen, even though rust here isn't too bad.

 

[SendInTheCavalry]

The license plate bolt holes tend to rust so I make sure to hit them yearly.

OMG Yes!!! I cannot say it enough! It should be a sticky on every forum!

Put something on these bolts, neverseeze, oil, anything... they will rust and snap off if you live somewhere where corrosion is a problem... Ask me how I know.. lol.