FishnCarz
New member
Only Nav I have is if I link my phone's gps with the bluetooth. Pretty lame for $35K.
5th Gen Official Complaint Thread to Toyota and Some Solutions
- Thread starter harper7
- Start date
e60ral
Banned
Just go to a marine supply and buy a cheap compass, stick it wherever you want
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FishnCarz
New member
Obviously, but I thought the purpose of this category was to ***** at Toyota?
And I live just outside of Grand Teton National Park in Idaho. Nearest marine supply store is in Oregon on the coast. There is always Cabela's on-line!
Brian
Most phones nowadays have a compass on them, at least iPhones do anyway.
FishnCarz
New member
Again, not the point. This is a thread for complaints and I only have the one.
Zonie Taco
New member
Rear window motor is constantly stuck from southwest dust. Weak crossmember bolt attachpoints between tranny and t-case. Besides that I've bashed it pretty well for 50k miles and it seems like it will be as reliable as my old taco.
FishnCarz
New member
Again, not the point. This is a thread for complaints and I only have the one.
Is it possible to swap the te clock for the SR5 clock?
lukeskywalker
New member
1.) Damn hood won't stop squeaking.
2.) The built in jack rattles if not secured properly
3.) Exhaust. Anyone notice a lot of exhaust coming out when the engine first starts? Is this normal?
2.) The built in jack rattles if not secured properly
3.) Exhaust. Anyone notice a lot of exhaust coming out when the engine first starts? Is this normal?
I might give you the first, although my hood has never squeaked...
But seriously? "the built in jack rattles when not secured properly"?? What doesn't make noise when not secured PROPERLY. secure it properly and don't have a problem, just like in any other car.
And yes, exhaust coming out of the exhaust pipe is normal.
Antman
Elite Member
Jetboy
New member
Low quality hardware - specifically nuts and bolts. I've never owned a vehicle that had this low of quality of metal and/or coatings used for the nuts and bolts. They constantly strip or cross thread because of a combination of reasons. (Edit: I take that back - never owned a TOYOTA with this bad of hardware - Our Acura TL was a nightmare in that regard.)
First and foremost is corrosion. Every bolt I remove underneath is corroded. I break lots of them. I currently have one that I need to cut off in the front cross member. The weld nut broke off it's welds because it was bound up on the bolt and snapped off the welds rather than having the bolt break. I have to swap back and forth between the OEM skid plate that fits with my snow plow bracket for the winter and the TRD Pro skid that I put on for offroad use in the summer, so I swap them out frequently. There's really no reason for there to be significant corrosion build up on only 6 months of time. Two of the 4 lower control arm cam bolts are seized in.
On top of this - many of the bolts have significant error from what a proper thread should be. I always run a die over them now and I'm surprised how much metal I cut off of some of the threads to get them back to a proper thread cut. I think the bolts/machine screws not being properly threaded is half the problem with all of the cross threading going on with skid plates. The 6 and 8mm body and trim bolts are the worst. Whoever supplies those is not doing a good job.
The coatings are also severely lacking. I kept my last 4runner - a 1996 - until it had over 200k miles on it in the exact same road environments and had none of the issues I have with my 2015. The body has halfway rusted off of my 1975 FJ40, but even to this day the frame is rock solid with just basic surface rust and the hardware can still be removed without issue. This is not inherently a function of the road salts. It's a materials and coatings failure in my opinion. Toyota knows how to solve it. Its prior vehicles did not have the same issues in my experience. Toyota needs to go back to the earlier bolt coatings and bolt manufacturing processes whether they were rolling threads on a different type of machine or using a different supplier? I have no idea. All I know is that I should start getting stock options from loctite for how much antiseize I use now on this vehicle.
This isn't only a 4runner issue. I just swapped plates on our Lexus and twisted off one of the license plate bolts. They've been on there for a grand total of 3 years. Something simple turns into a whole production; drill center bore, drill to size, tap, buy new 6x1.0 bolts, install - 45 minutes to change 2 small machine screws. And that's only because I have a hardware bin set that happens to have new 6x1.0 bolts so I didn't have to go the store.
Finally: It's too durable. Just like my last 4runner. I've yet to have any issues with anything other than those items. Had I left it stock I never would have touched a wrench on it. My wrenches are getting bored.
First and foremost is corrosion. Every bolt I remove underneath is corroded. I break lots of them. I currently have one that I need to cut off in the front cross member. The weld nut broke off it's welds because it was bound up on the bolt and snapped off the welds rather than having the bolt break. I have to swap back and forth between the OEM skid plate that fits with my snow plow bracket for the winter and the TRD Pro skid that I put on for offroad use in the summer, so I swap them out frequently. There's really no reason for there to be significant corrosion build up on only 6 months of time. Two of the 4 lower control arm cam bolts are seized in.
On top of this - many of the bolts have significant error from what a proper thread should be. I always run a die over them now and I'm surprised how much metal I cut off of some of the threads to get them back to a proper thread cut. I think the bolts/machine screws not being properly threaded is half the problem with all of the cross threading going on with skid plates. The 6 and 8mm body and trim bolts are the worst. Whoever supplies those is not doing a good job.
The coatings are also severely lacking. I kept my last 4runner - a 1996 - until it had over 200k miles on it in the exact same road environments and had none of the issues I have with my 2015. The body has halfway rusted off of my 1975 FJ40, but even to this day the frame is rock solid with just basic surface rust and the hardware can still be removed without issue. This is not inherently a function of the road salts. It's a materials and coatings failure in my opinion. Toyota knows how to solve it. Its prior vehicles did not have the same issues in my experience. Toyota needs to go back to the earlier bolt coatings and bolt manufacturing processes whether they were rolling threads on a different type of machine or using a different supplier? I have no idea. All I know is that I should start getting stock options from loctite for how much antiseize I use now on this vehicle.
This isn't only a 4runner issue. I just swapped plates on our Lexus and twisted off one of the license plate bolts. They've been on there for a grand total of 3 years. Something simple turns into a whole production; drill center bore, drill to size, tap, buy new 6x1.0 bolts, install - 45 minutes to change 2 small machine screws. And that's only because I have a hardware bin set that happens to have new 6x1.0 bolts so I didn't have to go the store.
Finally: It's too durable. Just like my last 4runner. I've yet to have any issues with anything other than those items. Had I left it stock I never would have touched a wrench on it. My wrenches are getting bored.
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lukeskywalker
New member
I did secure it properly. How dare i have to get off my butt and walk to the back of the car to secure it!!!
The exhaust thing though...there's a LOT of exhaust coming out. Like A LOT. I dont think it's 'normal'.
TacoRunn0517
New member
One minor "complaint" that I have: have the AUX/USB ports and power outlet housed in the center console. My cords can get in the way while using the 4WD lever. I assume the location of the ports and outlet are due to the transfer case? I'm not mechanically inclined ha. I just like how it is housed in my parents' 2010 Venza.
kenwilliams0803
New member
The 5th gen exhaust builds up a lot of condensation when cooling down. I assume you must be talking about the white steam on a cold morning? I have noticed the same. It's not normal compared to most other vehicles but as long as the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant (sweet) and you aren't using any coolant over time, it's fine and normal for this vehicle.
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lukeskywalker
New member
That's exactly what I'm talking about. Is it just steam? I"d say cool morning. It's more than a usual car. It's a plume of steam/smoke/exhaust, or whatever it is. I didn't get back there and sniff it.
This forum works because it's stuff like this you throw out there and people with similar circumstances can share. Thanks!
mnofpeace
Member
I'm sure its been mentioned already...
The door lock thing...
Though my passenger door auto locking has come back, im sure it will go back out sooner rather than later, to match the already out driver side door. Im glad they have actually kept a key'd lock on these things, unlike some other newer model vehicles i have seen.
The rest of the rig is made to last 200K miles and more...but the door lock actuators didnt even make it to 70k...cmon man...you can do so much better.
The door lock thing...
Though my passenger door auto locking has come back, im sure it will go back out sooner rather than later, to match the already out driver side door. Im glad they have actually kept a key'd lock on these things, unlike some other newer model vehicles i have seen.
The rest of the rig is made to last 200K miles and more...but the door lock actuators didnt even make it to 70k...cmon man...you can do so much better.
kenwilliams0803
New member
Yeah man, you are just seeing water vapor burning off the inside of the exhaust, I am pretty sure it's not smoke unless you are losing oil or coolant. It's white, right?
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lukeskywalker
New member
smitty1320
New member
Starting Issue
Hey Everybody. I bought a 2011 SR5 with 96k on it a month ago. Went to start it this evening before work and nothing. Lights on the dash did not come on so at first I was thinking maybe the battery, but it didn't have that characteristic steady clicking sound that a dead or dying battery usually has. Tried it a few times and nothing. Just that one faint click you get when you turn the ignition. I popped the hood and checked the battery terminals, and checked the oil. The oil was a tad low but it's a pretty cold day today. I went back and fired it up again and it fired up no hesitation and it died again immediately, with pretty much all the dash lights illuminated. Started it again after that and it was fine. Checked the oil again once it was warmed up and that was fine too. I took it to autozone because I had a few minutes to spare on the way to work and the battery and alternator tested fine. It drove fine after that too, I felt like it may have been the slightest bit rough but I think it was all in my head, and my girlfriend drove it home and she didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
I can't seem to find any threads with this exact problem, especially with the 5th gen. the only thread I saw that was similar was a guy who had a problem with the immobilizer. Anyone hear of this problem before? I'm bringing it by the dealer tomorrow but I'm supposed to drive the 900 miles back home to MA this weekend so the timing is less than ideal.
Hey Everybody. I bought a 2011 SR5 with 96k on it a month ago. Went to start it this evening before work and nothing. Lights on the dash did not come on so at first I was thinking maybe the battery, but it didn't have that characteristic steady clicking sound that a dead or dying battery usually has. Tried it a few times and nothing. Just that one faint click you get when you turn the ignition. I popped the hood and checked the battery terminals, and checked the oil. The oil was a tad low but it's a pretty cold day today. I went back and fired it up again and it fired up no hesitation and it died again immediately, with pretty much all the dash lights illuminated. Started it again after that and it was fine. Checked the oil again once it was warmed up and that was fine too. I took it to autozone because I had a few minutes to spare on the way to work and the battery and alternator tested fine. It drove fine after that too, I felt like it may have been the slightest bit rough but I think it was all in my head, and my girlfriend drove it home and she didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
I can't seem to find any threads with this exact problem, especially with the 5th gen. the only thread I saw that was similar was a guy who had a problem with the immobilizer. Anyone hear of this problem before? I'm bringing it by the dealer tomorrow but I'm supposed to drive the 900 miles back home to MA this weekend so the timing is less than ideal.
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