So I ended up just buying a replacement window and replacing the rear glass myself. It was just easier for me to do it than to go around in circles with shops that didn’t want to mess with a modded vehicle (even though the mods installed have nothing to do with the operation of the rear window).
Since there’s very little information online about replacing the rear hatch glass on a 5th gen 4Runner, I wanted to provide some notes and a step-by-step based on the trial-and-error I did during this process.
Some notes prior to following this step-by-step:
* I am not an auto body tech, an auto glass tech, or an auto mechanic. I’m just a guy with some tools who’s willing to do things myself when the situation warrants. This is written for the benefit of others who might find themselves in a similar situation. Please view this step-by-step for what it is – some guidelines written by a DIYer so that others can save some time by not going through the trial-and-error process.
** Auto glass replacement is relatively cheap, whether you’re paying outright or leveraging your insurance auto glass deductible. If you can find a shop willing to replace the rear hatch glass on your modded 4Runner, and you don’t have to wait weeks for them to do it, then it probably makes sense just to have them do the work. If that’s not the case for you, then please read on.
*** Prior to attempting to replace your broken rear hatch glass, check for and repair any body damage that may impede the movement of the window. On the inside of the rear hatch, check for dents protruding into the path of the window and/or scratches where the window regulator tabs move up and down.
**** Prior to attempting to replace your broken rear hatch glass, check for damage to the window regulator. On the inside of the rear hatch, look for bent regulator rails, pinched cables etc. If you see any, you’ll likely need to replace the regulator.
***** Use mechanic gloves and eye protection. Tiny pieces of glass are going to fall on you repeatedly during this process despite your best efforts to prevent it.
****** You will need the following tools to complete this step-by-step: Various size flat head screwdrivers, a plastic pry tool if you have it (can use a flat head if you don’t), a ratchet with various size metric sockets and extensions and/or a small electric drill with same, a razorblade or other small sharp blade, a shop vac, and some urethane glue. Do not use an impactor when working with glass (self-explanatory).
******* This process took me and a buddy about 2 ½ hours to complete, including a significant amount of time completing trial-and-error to figure out how to position the replacement glass for insertion into the rear hatch. I’m guessing this will take 2 hours or less to complete since you won’t have to go through the trial-and-error process.
Having said all of that, here’s a step-by-step of the process I completed to replace my broken rear hatch glass on my 5th Gen:
1) The rear hatch glass is basically a giant rear door window glass. Same design, except it has four regulator tabs instead of two and has two power connectors for the rear defrost on the bottom passenger side corner of the glass.
2) Remove any accessories that cover or are around the rear hatch glass (ladder, rotopax mounts, hi-lift mounts, maxtrax mounts etc. You’ll need lots of room to maneuver the replacement glass into the rear hatch.
3) Vacuum up as much broken glass from the rear cargo area as possible.
4) With the rear hatch closed and the accessory switch on, run the window regulator to the down stop position.
5) Run a plastic pry tool or a flat head screwdriver around the inside of the weather stripping to remove any pieces of glass still stuck in there. It will likely fall inside the rear hatch. This is ok for now.
6) Remove the rear hatch door card. Gently pry with a plastic pry tool until the clips release.
7) Remove the “grab handle” style access covers on the bottom of the rear hatch.
8) Carefully remove the plastic vapor barrier covering the access hole in the center of the inside of the rear hatch (looks like orange Seran Wrap). Do not discard – it can be easily reinstalled without having to apply additional adhesive.
9) Disconnect and remove the two speakers in the rear hatch.
10) Disconnect the two rear window defrost power cables and discard the old connector tabs that were glued to the old broken window.
11) Remove any residual broken glass and urethane adhesive from the metal tab that connects the rear defrost wiring harness to the window glass. A razor blade or other small sharp blade works well for this.
12) Remove the screws from the 4 tabs on the window regulator – 1 tab on either side of each regulator rail. Retain the screws and discard the old tabs from the broken glass.
13) Vacuum out as much glass as possible from the inside of the rear hatch. You can use a gloved hand to sweep glass toward the access holes on the bottom of the hatch. You’ll have to open and close the hatch several times and maybe shake it up and down a bit to get the glass pieces to all fall to the bottom of the hatch.
14) Remove the rear spoiler. Remove the 4 rubber pugs on the bottom of the spoiler. Remove the 4 bolts under the plugs. Gently pry until the plastic clips release, one at a time if you have to.
15) Remove the two plastic covers from the top of the pillars on both sides of the rear hatch. Starting at the bottom, gently pry outward until the bottom and two middle clips release, one at a time if you have to. Then slide the cover upward until it slides off of the top clip.
16) Remove the plastic cover on the bottom of the rear wiper assembly. Gently pry until the plastic clips release, one at a time if you have to.
17) Disconnect and remove the rear wiper motor assembly.
18) Position the replacement glass into the rear hatch. ** Get a buddy to assist you with this step. It is likely possible to do this step by yourself, but in my experience, it is WAY easier with a second pair of hands.** Based on my experience completing this repair, there is one way, and one way only, to position the replacement rear hatch glass such that it will slide all the way into position in the rear hatch. It must be positioned almost exactly in line with the window slot in the rear hatch and must be inserted at a very steep angle (this is why you had to remove all of that stuff in previous steps – there is no way to get the glass into the necessary position without making room to do so). Insert the bottom DRIVER SIDE corner of the glass into the bottom PASSENGER SIDE corner of the window slot, and slowly lower it into the slot while sliding it toward the driver side. Slowly rotate the glass into its proper orientation as you work it across toward the driver side and down into the window slot. Go slow. If you feel any resistance and or tension, then stop and go back a little. Try different combinations of rotating and sliding until you can get the glass to move freely over to the driver side bottom of the window channel. The glass will sit on the regulator in nearly its proper position once you’ve maneuvered it into place.
19) Connect the 4 window tabs to their respective spots on the window regulator. Use the screws removed in step 12. Do not use an impactor. Do not over tighten. You may need to move the window regulator up a little bit to access some of the window tabs depending on the tools you’re using. Connect the accessible tabs prior to moving the window, and have a buddy hold the window in position if/when you move the regulator up a little bit.
20) Connect the two power wires for the rear defroster to their respective tabs on the bottom passenger side of the glass.
21) Using urethane glue, attach the metal rear defrost wiring harness mounting tab to the glass. Positioning is self-explanatory – it can only be positioned one way. Allow curing time per glue manufacturer instructions.
22) Test window function. With the hatch closed and the accessory switch on, move the window to the full up stop position, then down to the full down stop position. The window may auto-return to the down position at first. Don’t panic. If this happens, follow step 23. If it doesn’t, then skip to step 24.
23) Reset the window regulator. With the hatch closed and the accessory switch on, cycle the rear hatch window switch as follows: 5 seconds down, 5 seconds up, 5 seconds down. Then retest window function per step 22. If this works, congratulations! If not, repeat this step again ensuring that you’re following the switch actuation steps and timing exactly. If your window still does not function properly, there is likely some body damage impeding window travel and/or some damage to the window regulator itself.
24) Actuate the window up and down several times. Probably not necessary, but gives you one last opportunity to make sure everything is working properly prior to buttoning everything up.
25) Reinstall, in reverse order, the parts removed in steps 6-9.
26) Reinstall, in reverse order, the parts removed in steps 14-17.
27) Reinstall accessories removed in step 2.
28) Have a cold beer and enjoy your new window.
