5VZ-FE Donor Engine Inspection

[STI_MECE]

I found a donor engine for my runner. It was involved in a 35 mph crash. 4runner ran into back of pickup.

Owner has all maintenance records.

Everything seems to check by pictures he sent over. But I know this upper pulley bracket is toast.ill swap it over my current Engine

And if you look closely at the Harmonic balancer there is a crack on the inner portion.

I haven't looked at mine yet but is that inner portion rubber or is that plastic? I would imagine if it's rubber then okay age and wear did that. But if it's plastic I gotta feeling that crankshaft might have been subjected to a nice hit.

Can anyone provide insight on what to look for or what other kind of underlying damage I should keep an eye on?

I tried looking for a check list of some sort so maybe a good thread to build on for others when buying engines from wrecked runners that don't run.

It was a well taken car of far. Owner is just parting it out.

I will put it neutral see if it spins after I cut the belts off i imagine that would be a good start lol

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[LittleCaesar]

I wouldn’t worry too much concerning the balancer. I would turn the engine over by hand at the crank. Also peer through the filler cap as far as possible.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That chip could have been someone trying to pry it off the crank.


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[STI_MECE]

That chip could have been someone trying to pry it off the crank.


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Yep! that is what I was thinking too! He has the timing belt serviced 5k miles before the accident with OEM parts put on by a mechanic.

I just saw that crack around the inside the balancer I wwanna say that is rubber. I may just go pony up and buy a new one for it and blow some money lol


Other than that he has Denso coil packs, and NGK wires. I do have a boroscope I am going to bring and check look into the cylinder bores.

I am super stoked to get this engine. I am probably going to replace damn near everything I can while it outs, rear main seal, going to redo the timing belt job again (planned on doing it to my current engine), exhuast manifold gaskets, valve covers.

Cant really think of anything else....

To put it on a stand, I got 2 of the 4 M12x1.25 x 90 bolts. I need 2 more lol store was out:mad2:

got a 1 ton engine hoist with a 5' 5/16" chain and some hooks.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If you are going that far and it’s on an engine stand do the head gaskets.


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[JohnMc]

Assuming it still has oil in it, use a battery and some jumper cables to crank it and do a compression test. Used motors can be a pig in a poke, no reason not to do some basic checks on it.

 

[STI_MECE]

Assuming it still has oil in it, use a battery and some jumper cables to crank it and do a compression test. Used motors can be a pig in a poke, no reason not to do some basic checks on it.

I guess it is as simple as pulling the EFI or stomping on the gas and cranking it? I dont want to put anyadded stress cranking on it with thhose pulleys in a bind.

i guess I could just cut the belts to solve that problem and still crank it to build the compression?

If you are going that far and it’s on an engine stand do the head gaskets.

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Gunna leave head gaskets alone. Gaskets should never blow if the engine is well maintained! And that definitely is not a job to do if it doesn't have to be. And its going to stack up the costs on rebuilding it if i crack them open.

Im already going to be reusing my valve covers on my current engine and just swapping those over. New valve cover gaskets, and washers, half moon plugs only had 200 miles on them before i pulled the cord on the engine

 

[JohnMc]

Is it still in the car? In which case, yeah, pull the EFI fuse, unplug the coils (you'd be removing them for the passenger side plugs anyhow). Take all 6 out (and look for any oddness on them while doing so), then hold the throttle open and crank.

Some EFI systems go into 'flood clear' mode with the throttle full open and cranking - they stop firing the injectors. Not sure if the Toyota does, pulling the fuse would do it for sure.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yes, that also works with pressing the pedal but it's good to be safe by pulling the wires anyway.

Compression check is worth more than anything. Without those numbers you have no idea how it runs, even with a boroscope. Just because it "looks" good doesn't mean it runs well. You might want to bring a spare battery or a jumper because most likely his battery will be dead and you can't get compression numbers with a dead battery. Bring a little bit of oil with you and put a couple of tablespoons in any cylinder that gives a poor PSI reading. If it jumps back up, the piston rings are worn (engine rebuild). If not, your valves are bad (cylinder head rebuild) or needing adjustment.

Compression test kits can be had from Harbor Freight for about $40. Worth their weight in gold in the used engine market.

Crankshaft pulleys are not made to take a frontal impact like that... turn it over by hand a few times before cranking the starter and listen for any grinding or screeching. Should be smooth and just hear the hiss of the compression stroke as air passes by the pistons.

P.S. replace the crankshaft with either a used one or a lightweight crank pulley from LC Engineering or URD. They are cheaper than OEM and you'll gain a little pep from the engine.

For reference, my used engine I bought last year was at 200-210 PSI in every cylinder (wet after oil added). That's perfection, you want to be near those numbers.

 

[STI_MECE]

Yes, that also works with pressing the pedal but it's good to be safe by pulling the wires anyway.

Compression check is worth more than anything. Without those numbers you have no idea how it runs, even with a boroscope. Just because it "looks" good doesn't mean it runs well. You might want to bring a spare battery or a jumper because most likely his battery will be dead and you can't get compression numbers with a dead battery. Bring a little bit of oil with you and put a couple of tablespoons in any cylinder that gives a poor PSI reading. If it jumps back up, the piston rings are worn (engine rebuild). If not, your valves are bad (cylinder head rebuild) or needing adjustment.

Compression test kits can be had from Harbor Freight for about $40. Worth their weight in gold in the used engine market.

Crankshaft pulleys are not made to take a frontal impact like that... turn it over by hand a few times before cranking the starter and listen for any grinding or screeching. Should be smooth and just hear the hiss of the compression stroke as air passes by the pistons.

P.S. replace the crankshaft with either a used one or a lightweight crank pulley from LC Engineering or URD. They are cheaper than OEM and you'll gain a little pep from the engine.

For reference, my used engine I bought last year was at 200-210 PSI in every cylinder (wet after oil added). That's perfection, you want to be near those numbers.

Thanks for this...ive never done a wet check only dry. I think Dry is around 180ish psi yeah?

And if i put oil into a cylinder with low PSI readings, what should the cylinder do when it has oil in it? I would think the pressure would rise if the seals are good.

What am I missing here?

I will bring my 20ft jumpers and hook it up to my chevy to test it.

 

[STI_MECE]

I also just realized he took the starter off. He sold it. -_-

I guess its time to spin the chambers?

 

[Sarki]

I also just realized he took the starter off. He sold it. -_-

I guess its time to spin the chambers?

Not liking that.....who sells starter when selling complete engine.
Proceed with caution!

 

[brillo_76]

I also just realized he took the starter off. He sold it. -_-

I guess its time to spin the chambers?

Pull your starter and bolt it on.

Like all others said turn over by hand or the nut on the crankshaft. Then do a compression check.

Worst case use jumper cables or a jump pack to spin that engine over to get that compression check.. As it tells you want you need to know about that engine.

How does the oil in the pan look?

 

[brillo_76]

Not liking that.....who sells starter when selling complete engine.
Proceed with caution!

When people are parting them out anything can be gone.
Wouldn't surprise me of the alternator is gone too. Very common.

You be supersized how the crate engines come in from junk yards. lots of stuff is missing on that used engine. Those are complete engines too.

 

[HiLife]

And if i put oil into a cylinder with low PSI readings, what should the cylinder do when it has oil in it? I would think the pressure would rise if the seals are good.

What am I missing here?

Oil helps rule out worn piston rings in that cylinder by filling in the wear temporarily.
If the compression doesnt go up, burnt valves, heavy gouges in the cylinder wall or leaking head gasket would be suspect.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Pull your starter and bolt it on.

Like all others said turn over by hand or the nut on the crankshaft. Then do a compression check.

Worst case use jumper cables or a jump pack to spin that engine over to get that compression check.. As it tells you want you need to know about that engine.

How does the oil in the pan look?

I'm not aware of any way to get a compression reading by turning the engine by hand. The cylinders will de-compress faster than you can spin it, I've tried. Took me a bit to learn how to energize a starter with a battery when the engine is out of the vehicle so gave it a shot. Didn't work.

Also, if you do try and bring a starter, the transmission must also be attached since the starter bolts to the transmission housing, not the engine.

If you do end up buying the engine without a compression check, just be ready or have the means to rebuild it if it doesn't pan out. You could try reading the spark plugs... that gives a little info into the health of each cylinder since for example a sooty plug means it's running rich (poor burn, low compression) or a damaged plug could point to a problem with the engine as well.

 

[brillo_76]

I'm not aware of any way to get a compression reading by turning the engine by hand. The cylinders will de-compress faster than you can spin it, I've tried. Took me a bit to learn how to energize a starter with a battery when the engine is out of the vehicle so gave it a shot. Didn't work.

Also, if you do try and bring a starter, the transmission must also be attached since the starter bolts to the transmission housing, not the engine.

If you do end up buying the engine without a compression check, just be ready or have the means to rebuild it if it doesn't pan out. You could try reading the spark plugs... that gives a little info into the health of each cylinder since for example a sooty plug means it's running rich (poor burn, low compression) or a damaged plug could point to a problem with the engine as well.

I figured only the starter was missing and the rest of it was intact.

You are correct in stating that it has to be completely together to use the starter so that is very good to mention.

Correct you cant do a compression check by hand.

I just wanted to suggest that hand turning with the spark plugs out and listen to the engine is important as you can listen to the engine like others suggested.

No idea why people do not take videos of their engines and transmissions working before pulling parts off. At least you could see it and hear it running as well as date and time of the video for verification purposes as the days of trust me its good are completely gone.

 

[STI_MECE]

All good advice thank you guys very much for the help! I will most likely just check the spark plugs. The guy has a but ton of records on this thing. And it was in immaculate condition. It had 144k on the clock before the accident.

Which I feel like for this case. Getting an engine you know came out of a well maintained rig and has records to back to it up I gotta gut feeling it will come out alright. I have more faith in this engine than I'm getting than I would at a junk yard or something.

I think I may roll the dice and skip the compression test. Worst case I can still rebuild my current block and I'd most likely take one his passenger head and put it on mine if everything checks out okay on that end.

I can get rid of my screwed up threaded spark plug but that is all last resort

After I contemplate pushing it off a cliff loll

I'm not sure about the oil pan....he said he just did his valve cover gaskets before timing belt as well because of a leak so there may be some residue there

Can't be any worse than mine. I got so much gunk on my frame when bolts hit the sub frame I don't hear shit lol


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[19963.4lsr5]

I lost a cam bearing bolt similar to that. It fell I seen it and never heard it hit anything. Probed all over the passenger side of the engine and never found it. I’m so glad I had a bucket of bolts from the junked engine.


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[brillo_76]

All good advice thank you guys very much for the help! I will most likely just check the spark plugs. The guy has a but ton of records on this thing. And it was in immaculate condition. It had 144k on the clock before the accident.

Which I feel like for this case. Getting an engine you know came out of a well maintained rig and has records to back to it up I gotta gut feeling it will come out alright. I have more faith in this engine than I'm getting than I would at a junk yard or something.

I think I may roll the dice and skip the compression test. Worst case I can still rebuild my current block and I'd most likely take one his passenger head and put it on mine if everything checks out okay on that end.

I can get rid of my screwed up threaded spark plug but that is all last resort

After I contemplate pushing it off a cliff loll

I'm not sure about the oil pan....he said he just did his valve cover gaskets before timing belt as well because of a leak so there may be some residue there

Can't be any worse than mine. I got so much gunk on my frame when bolts hit the sub frame I don't hear shit lol


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Sounds like you have a plan..

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