5VZ-Fe install used or rebuild?

N

NTORACN

New member
I'm running out of options on my 1998 4runner 5vz-fe motor. This tapping/knock sound hasn't been found. Here is that thread for your viewing pleasure. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/80627-98-4runner-tick-knock-advise-needed.html

If I were to rebuild mine, is there any good machine shops here in So. Calif that you know of who do good machine work and know this series of motor?

If I were to stuff a used engine in, any good sources for a good used motor?

What year(s) of 5vz-fe motors are a direct plug and play.

Thanks for your help in advance.
 
Register to hide this ad
i'd still roll it till it explodes, it's not like you'd be getting your block back anyways, chances are you'll just end up with another case/block
when you drop yours off as a core...
till then drive it, i can't here the noise your on about, but a lot of us have ticking noises, mines been ticking for years to no ill effect, like litterially 80k
it's been ticking and 5k miles road trips down to moab in the middle of the summer with no problems, it was ticking......

you could be freaking out over nothing, have you had any lose in power? rough idle? there are ssoo many things it could be that aren't rebuild type of problems.
personally i think your freaking out and blowing through money when you could be buying a lift and bumpers. lol

i skimmed through the other thread,
injectors
charcoal canister
valve lash
the standard 4runner tick

those are my guesses, if it's not any of those and your not having and ill effects i'd just deal with the tick for a few minutes, i know i have and have zero problems.

if your bent on getting a new engine it will cost the same either way as most likely you'll just be paying for a complete rebuilt motor as opposed to dropping yours off at the shop and waiting weeks for the disassemble, machining and reassembly, the worst case scenario is your core gets deemed no good and you pay the $200 or so core charge.

either way i'm thinking you should wait man and see what happens you may go years with no problems. at the very least it should throw a code a bit before it explodes, so i'm thinking your pretty good.
 
quicksilvr said:
Drive it until there is an actual problem besides just the noise. Then spend $$ on a new engine or a rebuild.

Best place for a motor is a reputable seller on eBay. Price wise anyway.
Click to expand...

3 problems.

1. I'm anal about my stuff and could't stand the noise if I drive it. The noise so loud that people look at you like "you better get that thing home before it breaks down"

2. Its a vehicle for my teen son. As a new driver, I would prefer him not breaking down if I can help it.

3. I would prefer to fix it now as I have 5 months before he starts driving it and I would prefer to fix it now when the damage is minimal.

Of course, when it breaks, I'll know for sure what it is/was. I'got time on my side, so I want to keep pressing on till I at least find out the source of the noise.
 
TFJ-4runner said:
To answer your question all year for the 3rd gen 4runner are plug and play with the 5VZFE. 96-02
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, so any 06-02 4Runner, Tacoma or T100 engine will not only bolt in, but have all of the correct sensor(s) locations? This gives me something to keep an eye open for.
 
NTORACN said:
3 problems.


3. I would prefer to fix it now as I have 5 months before he starts driving it and I would prefer to fix it now when the damage is minimal.
Click to expand...

chances are you'll see alot more damage after he starts driving it, lol

just kidding, yeah like i said, i can't actually hear whats going mine isn;t too loud, like that of a hollister girl tapping her fake finger nails on a desk, kind of loud but not stop traffic sort of loud.....

i have asked about my tick various times took it into the shop and had the guys just tell me that's nothing to worry about and they just tend to do that.



really, from talking with you just go out and buy a create engine or at least try and find a core that hasn't been line bored yet, i can't remember the name of the company but i'm sure some one else here will, but they are THE guys to buy the Toyota engines from, search around and go from there.
 
theizzardking said:
i'd still roll it till it explodes, it's not like you'd be getting your block back anyways, chances are you'll just end up with another case/block
when you drop yours off as a core...
till then drive it, i can't here the noise your on about, but a lot of us have ticking noises, mines been ticking for years to no ill effect, like litterially 80k
it's been ticking and 5k miles road trips down to moab in the middle of the summer with no problems, it was ticking......

you could be freaking out over nothing, have you had any lose in power? rough idle? there are ssoo many things it could be that aren't rebuild type of problems.
personally i think your freaking out and blowing through money when you could be buying a lift and bumpers. lol

i skimmed through the other thread,
injectors
charcoal canister
valve lash
the standard 4runner tick

those are my guesses, if it's not any of those and your not having and ill effects i'd just deal with the tick for a few minutes, i know i have and have zero problems.

if your bent on getting a new engine it will cost the same either way as most likely you'll just be paying for a complete rebuilt motor as opposed to dropping yours off at the shop and waiting weeks for the disassemble, machining and reassembly, the worst case scenario is your core gets deemed no good and you pay the $200 or so core charge.

either way i'm thinking you should wait man and see what happens you may go years with no problems. at the very least it should throw a code a bit before it explodes, so i'm thinking your pretty good.
Click to expand...

Hey, Thanks for the feedback. My noise is not there until the engine has been running for a few minutes. Once warmed up, the noise is really loud at idle speed. Once at 1,000 or more RPM's the noise stops. In gear at 1,000 RPM's and above the motor sounds like its supposed to.
 
theizzardking said:
chances are you'll see alot more damage after he starts driving it, lol

just kidding, yeah like i said, i can't actually hear whats going mine isn;t too loud, like that of a hollister girl tapping her fake finger nails on a desk, kind of loud but not stop traffic sort of loud.....

i have asked about my tick various times took it into the shop and had the guys just tell me that's nothing to worry about and they just tend to do that.



really, from talking with you just go out and buy a create engine or at least try and find a core that hasn't been line bored yet, i can't remember the name of the company but i'm sure some one else here will, but they are THE guys to buy the Toyota engines from, search around and go from there.
Click to expand...

I'll keep plugging away at it, Thanks again.
 
Gotcha. I'm starting to realize how loud this issue is.


I don't wonder if you have a broken or messed up piston skirt? Piston skirts that are messed up are usually louder at idle, and tend to quiet at higher rpm.

DSC02766.jpg~original


DSC02769.jpg~original



^That caused this sound:

YouTube - Turbo Neon Dyno (2.0L w/ stock SRT turbo)
 
i think though from the condition's he's saying here it's just the normal toyota tick , mine does the same thing, i wouldn;t call it head turning loud but it is kind of loud.....


see I'm thinking it may be something stupid like this

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/42542-v6-tick-tic-tap-noise-reduced.html

but on out 3rd gens....again nothing wrong with those engines they just tick,


maybe you should go and get a mech. stethoscope and have a very close listen and see where it's coming from, this tic drives lots of people nuts and as far as i know no one has ever really gotten after it or found a fix,
most usually just say "oh i guess that's just how it is" and go with it....
 
I don't believe all years of 3.4s are plug and play. Don't the '01s and '02s have throttle by wire? That may just mean you'll have to use your old throttle body, but I'm not certain that all your sensors will jive with the new block. Will all your sensors thread into the new block? If not, you'll have to get the ECU and sensors with the new engine. The MAF sensors changed in '99, but I would think you could use your old one, just not 100% sure. Here's the big kicker..
It's against federal law to install an engine that's older than your vehicle so '96 and '97 3.4s are out.
 
NTORACN said:
Thanks for the info, so any 06-02 4Runner, Tacoma or T100 engine will not only bolt in, but have all of the correct sensor(s) locations? This gives me something to keep an eye open for.
Click to expand...

Now that I can't confidently tell you yes on. I'm sure the are but you have small things to consider like tweaks in the wiring harness. But I doubt it's anything to concern if there's anything at all.
 
I have always just been told that from mechanic friends and I've seen it posted by others on other forums, but I didn't get my info from any official site. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's the case. Post your findings if that's not the case because I'd like to know.
 
It may be a state thing as opposed to a federal law. Here's a site for CO law.. (2nd paragraph)
Automotive Engine Swap Laws in Colorado | eHow.com

This link is the EPA code as of 1991 pertaining to federal law (This may have been changed since 1991, but I can't find anything to show me otherwise..
EPA "Engine Switching" policy: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine
(go to about paragraph 11)
Here's the quote:
"It should be noted that while EPA's policy allows engine switches as long as the resulting vehicle matches exactly to anv certified configuration of the same or newer model year as the chassis, there are some substantial practical limitations to performing such a replacement. Vehicle chassis and engine designs of one vehicle manufacturer are very distinct from those of another, such that it is generally not possible to put an engine into a chassis of a different manufacturer and have it match up to a certified configuration. Therefore, practical considerations will generally limit engine switches to installation of another engine which was certified to be used in that same make and model (or a "twin" of that make and model, e.g., Pontiac Grand Am and Oldsmobile Calais). In addition, converting a vehicle into a different certified configuration is likely to be very difficult, and the cost may prove prohibitive."
 
Last edited:
I think as long as you don't downgrade the emission system, its OK. That's why I was asking what year(s) of 5VZ-FE's are a direct replacement. I know any year 5VZ will bolt in, the bigger question is does it have all of the required sensors in the correct locations so the vehicles computer can run the engine and not set a trouble code. I am trying to upload a video to you tube so you can hear the noise. Bear with me, as I am uploading my first video.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 317 (members: 0, guests: 317)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,311
Messages
3,554,082
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top