5VZFE Engine Out Refresh - Parts List

[CoCoCo4Runner]

Bumping up my thread, have a (hopefully) good engine on hand, and am putting together a game plan for the engine refresh, removal of the old block and re-installation.

I'm studying the FSM and printing out the relevant sections for the work, and I need to pickup a can of Permatex Great Stuff for the Oil Pan and VCG.

Here's the gameplan with the parts I have separated by "task"

Does this look more or less correct? I just want to avoid putting something on and then taking it off again.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Doing a apples to apples that's how mine works @224k mi,
key at on posiition light on, engine fires up 1-3 sec hold in Ign position light goes out.

Are you cranking longer than that ?

I've cleaned oil cooler new hoses o-rings, did pull oil pressure sending unit flush with cleaner only difference.

I can crank for ten sec with fuel pump relay removed and the low oil pressure light never turns off.

But yea, around 1 sec after engine starts the oil light goes out.


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[gamefreakgc]

Bumping up my thread, have a (hopefully) good engine on hand, and am putting together a game plan for the engine refresh, removal of the old block and re-installation.

I'm studying the FSM and printing out the relevant sections for the work, and I need to pickup a can of Permatex Great Stuff for the Oil Pan and VCG.

Here's the gameplan with the parts I have separated by "task"

Does this look more or less correct? I just want to avoid putting something on and then taking it off again.

A couple of thoughts that might same some time and some headache.

The oil cooler is almost foolproof, it would be best to leave that one alone as it never leaks. Same goes with the oil pickup tube gasket, it's one of those things that doesn't leak and even if it does it doesn't affect anything. I realize you'll have the oil pan dropped so I suppose you can do it but not really needed.

Now here is where some people disagree and it's on a need-only basis. The crankshaft and camshaft seals. Obviously, if they are leaking they need to be replaced however the camshaft seals are difficult to get in correctly without damaging either the seal or the surface. Have I seen one that's leaked before? Yes. Have I seen one that's been perfectly fine and then when 'fixed' with a new seal it then started leaking where it hadn't before? Yes. I have replace my seals but it was when I had the camshafts out of the engine, which you are not planning on doing. It's a fair amount of work to remove them.

The crankshaft seal is another one of those that might be best left alone but it's much harder to tell if this one is leaking because the valve covers and oil pan tend to leak down to the same spot. I have never replaced a crankshaft seal for the same reasons mentioned above for the camshaft seal. It also necessitates removing of the crankshaft pulley and the bolt is supposedly non-reusable and I didn't see one on your parts list.

The rest look right on point. I'm assuming you'll also be replacing any vacuum hoses on a need basis as you go. You may want to look into replacing the oil cooler coolant hose if yours is so equipped. If you have one your water pump will have an extra coolant passage. This hose does tend to leak from time to time as it breaks down from the coolant.