87 4-runner running rough

wshargra

New member
My son has an 87 4-runner that is running very rough. The engine light comes on one day and goes off the next. The vehicle has a loss of power, goes about 30 mph and acts like it wants to die.

He has replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, O2 sensor, fuel filter.

Nothing is helping. Please advise what else could be causing this problem. We are not able to figure this. His 4-runner has a 22R motor.
 
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Mine had similar symptoms and I affected the same repairs with no improvement. Check the fuel flow / pressure. The pump may be goin out. That's what mine turned out to be.

Good luck.

MIke in AR
 
87 4-rnner running rough

Could this possibly be a vacuum leak somewhere, a bad fuel injector or EGR valve? Worst case scenario, decompressed cylinder?

This thing runs like a tractor.
 
Re: 87 4-rnner running rough

wshargra said:
Could this possibly be a vacuum leak somewhere, a bad fuel injector or EGR valve? Worst case scenario, decompressed cylinder?

This thing runs like a tractor.

All of those things can make an engine run rough.
 
When when I did all the easy stuff like O2 sensor, plugs, wires, rotor cap & button and nothing worked, I took it to my mechanic. He diagnosed the problem and replaced the fuel pump. I suppose it's as easy as loosening off the fuel line on the tank side of the filter and turning the ignition key to 'ON'. The pump 'should' start pushing gasoline out in a full, steady stream. If it's only a trickle or an inconsistent stream, then you can be pretty sure its the pump. I would do this test with the vehicle 'overnight cold', so everthing is cool and no chance for an accident with the raw fuel.

Part II was that when I got the pump replaced and the motor running strong again, I found out I had a serious fuel leak somewhere around the engine. Gas fumes were very strong. I could barely drive it because the fumes were so bad. Took it back to the mechanic and turned out there was a leak in the pulsator. That's a device that evens out the fuel flow by taking out the intermittent fuel flow pulses caused when the injectors snap open and closed. Evidently, there was no 'leak' there before the pump replacement, because the engine was drawing all the fuel it could get from the fuel delivery system and no extra could leak out.

The system was probably running lean on a lot of occasions, as a result. I received some erroneous O2 sensor-related codes before the pump replacement. A lean running condition can also melt engine components.

However, I have had no problems in this area since I had the pump replaced.

Mike in AR
 
About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links/toyota_trouble_codes.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Sidney
 
Yes pull the code it could be lots of things.

If it does turn out to be the fuel pump remember to replce the fuel filter also.


mike
 
My son took the vehicle to a shop in which they did some tests. They told him that he is getting no voltage to his # 4 injector which is causing it to burn the plugs.

Any idea on what he needs to do to fix this problem?
 
wshargra said:
My son took the vehicle to a shop in which they did some tests. They told him that he is getting no voltage to his # 4 injector which is causing it to burn the plugs.

Any idea on what he needs to do to fix this problem?

Am I missing something, replace the bad injector?


Mike
 
I don't think that the injector is bad. The problem is that there is no voltage getting to the injector so the injector cannot perform like it should. What would cause voltage not to reach the injector?
 

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