89 Runner - Good or Bad Idea?

DrDubzz

DrDubzz

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The machine in question can be found here
https://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/6146932150.html

I'm not technically in the market, but I still want a 4Runner in my life.

Looking for some good wild ass guesses, how much would I need to sink into this to be able to trust it as a daily driver?

It seems like a great deal for how clean the body is alone
 
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DrDubzz said:
The machine in question can be found here
https://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/6146932150.html

I'm not technically in the market, but I still want a 4Runner in my life.

Looking for some good wild ass guesses, how much would I need to sink into this to be able to trust it as a daily driver?

It seems like a great deal for how clean the body is alone
Click to expand...

NAH. Not a 3.0.
A little more power than 22R-E but a lot more trouble, and the engine compartment is so full- it's much harder to work on than a 22R-E.
 
Hell for that price Id jump on it to be honest. Around here thats a 6k rig easy. Like others have said the 3.0 does have its issues. Mines actually blew out a head gasket and warped the head on the pass side of the engine a couple years ago. I had everything set to do a 3.4 5VZE swap, but Toyota came in clutch and offered to warranty the engine since the head gaskets had never been done on it. So they replaced both drivers and pass side heads and gaskets for me. I daily drive the 4runner 60+ miles a day and havent had issues except that one time. Unlike others I kinda like the 3.0. I have both a 22r motor truck and a 3.0 and the 3.0 is significantly better on the freeway and can handle the AC system much better than my 22r. Both my trucks are 5 speed manuals and sit on 35s. The mileage on the 3.0 is better on the freeway than the 22r simply because I can stay in a lower RPM range on the freeway while still running AC. As far as working on it, the 22r/re is sooo much easy to work on since the engine bay has a lot more room. If I were you I'd honestly pick it up if I was in the market looking for a 1st gen.

Couple notes about that particular truck if I bought it. I'd do away with the WARN manual hubs and get some factory manual Aisin locking hubs. IMO they are superior to the WARN hubs not to mention Ive blown a WARN hub out before. Id throw em in a box for spares when you go wheeling. Also I dunno how much you need AC, but I love mines. That truck doesn't have AC so you might wanna take that into consideration. Not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but Id figure a head gasket job worst case scenario if its never been done before and blows. I know it doesn't sound great, but it isnt all that difficult.
 
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Good deal bad engine.
Swap a 3.4l or a VW diesel and the reliability is doubled with the 3.4l and tripled with the diesel.

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"Hell for that price Id jump on it to be honest."
[MENTION=100733]sam24th[/MENTION] is right. I bought the 88' in my sig pic 2 days ago for more than that and it's no where near as good of shape. The Air Locker he has (if working properly) is a good bonus as well as the Bumper/Winch and Rear Tire Carrier. Good rubber, clean interior.
Do you use salt in Montana? Check the frame and floor pans for rust. There are other folks on here that know those trucks and where to look for the trouble spots. It looks like he took care of it tho, so you might get lucky on the rust. It's definitely worth a test drive. Good Luck!
 
4RunnerAquasport said:
"Hell for that price Id jump on it to be honest."
[MENTION=100733]sam24th[/MENTION] is right. I bought the 88' in my sig pic 2 days ago for more than that and it's no where near as good of shape. The Air Locker he has (if working properly) is a good bonus as well as the Bumper/Winch and Rear Tire Carrier. Good rubber, clean interior.
Do you use salt in Montana? Check the frame and floor pans for rust. There are other folks on here that know those trucks and where to look for the trouble spots. It looks like he took care of it tho, so you might get lucky on the rust. It's definitely worth a test drive. Good Luck!
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If I am not mistaken, Montana has generally used sand and not salt so Id suspect less rust than what you'd find here. In either case, major rust spots are generally on the frame rail right after the pass/driver doors, near the leaf rear leaf spring front mounts, and inside frame rail behind the gas tank on pass side. Body wise look at all the floor pans, windshield frame and rear quarters particularly near the rear bumper. I wouldnt worry about the front fenders if theres rust, as new fenders are cheap and easy to replace. I too paid quite a bit more for mines, but its rust free, had front and rear lockers and a new set of 35s on it.
 
Thanks everyone, I'm hoping to look at it this weekend. It's not a need, but I'd love to be in a solid, payment free ride. I love my truck but I'd love to not be paying for it. So if I have to do some mechanical work and add AC I'll still likely come out ahead.

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The photos don't really show how much rust the body has, but I can't imagine someone doesn't grab that in a hurry.
Let's see. .. which way is Bozeman again :lookout:
 
MtBuck said:
The photos don't really show how much rust the body has, but I can't imagine someone doesn't grab that in a hurry.
Let's see. .. which way is Bozeman again :lookout:
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If it's there Sunday I'll take a look. I'm in Great Falls, I'll buy yours for $3500 :whistle:
 
That truck looks really nice for $3500. Someone loved it and took really good care of it. Keep us updated.
 
winch cable needs to be pulled all the way out and inspected and rewound correctly, looks like a rat's nest.
For the price that thing has some great accessories with the winch, ARB bumper and rear swing out. $1500-2000 right there to buy the stuff new. just noticed the rear air locker...add another $1500 for that...so for the price of the accessories you are getting a free 4runner

Any 30 year old vehicle is gonna need some work. that thing is just itching for a 3.4, way easier to that conversion on a V6 truck than a 4 banger truck.

that truck won't be for sale long unless it turns out to be a total POS
 
Truth be known, if it was an auto, I'd be in Bozeman tomarrow. I prefer the stock un-modified runners but that one I' might make an exception for.
Just my opinion. .. but 5 years from now the prices on 1st gen runners are going to be considerably higher. Get em while ya can!
 
My 3.0 has 373,000 original miles on it with no rebuild. It went in for the gasket recall at 93k or so, but there was no issue, just went in for the recall. It runs so well it is scary. Knock on wood. I heard the gasket problems came about during the 2nd generation era, a time when they switched head gasket material to remove asbestos. Do not quote me on that though.

Mine has been reliable. I take care of it, take care of the cooling system, and never drive like an a-hole.
 
My 3.0 has 215K miles with the engine never being touched - still runs like new.

I certainly wouldn't avoid the one under consideration because of the 3.0, vs if it had a 2.4. At this age, one engine is just as reliable as the other, and the 3.0 definitely has more power. That's particularly important in the mountain west (Montana), where the altitude saps the little power these engines have already. Having a manual transmission really helps performance vs the auto.

It looks well cared for and like it's been treated with respect, and as said, the accessories are worth the asking price.
 
MtBuck said:
Truth be known, if it was an auto, I'd be in Bozeman tomarrow. I prefer the stock un-modified runners but that one I' might make an exception for.
Just my opinion. .. but 5 years from now the prices on 1st gen runners are going to be considerably higher. Get em while ya can!
Click to expand...

Go for it man! The value is only going to go up as clean 4runners are getting harder and harder to find.
 
I'm going to look at this tomorrow, I'm 80% leaning towards buying as long as it's not rusted out. I'd like to do an eventual full restoration+
Repaint, perform needed drive train maintenance and updates, figure out if the suspension is good, I don't want it lifted high, just enough for the 31s to be comfortable,and some interior updates that don't ruin the oem look.

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I'm rooting for ya Tim that the runner is in good shape and that you get it. Post a bunch of pics if ya get it! :party:
 
I thought I remember a discussion in the past about the early 3.0's not being so prone to the infamous head gasket issues. Also I clearly remember people talking about how the 5spds were much less prone to head gaskets blowing as they could be "babied" more...could be depending on how you like to drive. Having done a head job on a 3.0 I wouldn't hesitate to pick it up if it's solid.
 
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