90 4runner slow build

So I checked the fuel pressure today just for giggles, I am about 5lbs above the uper limit on all tests and I bead down to below 27lb in under 2 min sounds like I will be replacing the fpr next

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I managed to get video of the rough idle today it is fine untell it has been under load then it idles like this but will smooth out if I hold it at about 1-1.5k for a cople of seconds.
https://youtu.be/5ZY_rJArYLk

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I bypassed the vacume solinoid to the fpr after reading that it was a bit of a problem child and took a quick spin around the block and it is a bit less rich now I'll see how much better it is driving the rest of the week. I got new plugs to put in after this tank of sea foam, if it is better I'll put the cat on and install a new o2 sensor hopefully that will have it in good enough shape to move on to the fun part of finishing the wireing and building the new rear bumper. I have a set of stock bumpers off of a jeep wrangler to act as my new skins with some renforcments for the tire carier and then I will be welding a brush gaurd on to a winch plate and building a front bumper off that

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So found out that the timing cover eather needs replaced or drilled and taped

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So my father has been working on my truck for me and it is almost back together he needs new gaskets that I bought this afternoon and I will be puting the vacume systems back together next week

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Made minor progress on the engine today all the accessories are back on and lost of new bolts. I have new belts to go on and will be geting the exhaust fixed once it is driving
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I did a bit of contomplation on how to carrey my spare tire, gas can, and highlift and think I want to go with the factory swingout that I pulled from the junk yard
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And one posible but leaning towards the first 2
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It will take a bit of welding to make everything fit right and I need a spair that is backspaced to clear where I want to mount the highlift and to match the wheels that are on the truck now.
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I am going to install a locking box in the pasanger side in place of the old one and while I am in there I am going to brace the crap out of the new mounting points for the swingout using 1/4 inch angle iorn welded to the supports in the rear.
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I primed the gas can carrier and am now trying to deside red or black on he final color.
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And just a quick closeup of the tie down points on my roof rack, the rack is wide enough to fit a roof top box and 2 kayaks

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Very nice. Look forward to seeing how you route wires to the rear of the vehicle as I'll be doing the same before too long.
 
Very nice. Look forward to seeing how you route wires to the rear of the vehicle as I'll be doing the same before too long.
Which wires are you interested in? I just ordered a new set of flood lights that will mount flush in the rear bumper and I will be using the pods up front, the reverce lights will be wired through the trailer lights which will have 1 wire run down the frame to provide power to the relays. The light for the lisanceplate will be pulled from the running light on the pasanger side

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Love the factory tire carriers! Got plans for beefing up the corner it attaches to? Tire on a steelie, hilift and, a jerry can full of fuel is a good amount of weight.
 
I haven't pulled the inner panle off to see what I have to work with but ideally I would weld thick bracing in to the corner suport as well as reinforcing the upright. I might be able to cut the inside out of the light and insert my bracing through that point.

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I have some photos I picked from off line
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This is a bracket someone made to brace the tire carier
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Same bracket unfinished
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This is a photo of the rear frame member
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It looks like there is enough room to fit the bracket in without cuting the body panle but it might be a good idea to cut the light out and weld it in.

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Looking good,

I'm curious to see the pics on the end results, my build will also be slow funds and time = :ohwell:
Ya same here I have had the tire carier sitting it the shed for a cople of years and I have been gathering lights little by little, I'm going to use the lights I bought to use for reverce lights to replace the halogen tractor lights now that I have the flush mount floods to go in the bumper
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Ordered some hood struts today so when I get the rest of the engine back together I will be installing gas struts and under hood lights wired to a door ajar switch no more fumbling with a flashlight under the hood

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Which wires are you interested in? I just ordered a new set of flood lights that will mount flush in the rear bumper and I will be using the pods up front, the reverce lights will be wired through the trailer lights which will have 1 wire run down the frame to provide power to the relays. The light for the lisanceplate will be pulled from the running light on the pasanger side

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I'm thinking of adding some reverse flood lights, a 12v socket/USB socket both in the trunk area and rear passenger seat area. So basically, three 12ga (or whatever I come up with) wires to the rear. The sockets will probably be live and fused but the reverse lights will have the relay at the front. My plan is to do all of my aux electricals correctly the first time. Having one spot for all of my aux fuses and relays seems like the way to go.
 
How I would do it is 1 wire from the front on a breaker to a aux fuse panel at the rear then tap the reverse lights for a relay that will be the least amount of wireing. If you are doing outlets in the center console for the back seat I would run power under the trim on the transmission tunnel. My relays are in the rear because they are also controlling the trailer lights with a surge brakes lockout pin on the harness.

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Well got the timing cover back on the engine and everything hooked up as well as tryed my hand and sodering the radiator but now I am leaking oil from the front of the head gasket. I'm going to smear some rtv on it to try to slow down the leak untell I have time to fix it or if it will hold untell next summer I will be doing my tdi swap. Today I will be going to get some eye bolts to go in the front bumper at the corners to act as tie down points for the kyacks since I got pulled over for a obstructed view with them tied to the recovery points.

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Stopped by ace this morning and rig this up
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Now the straps arn't in my way

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If you havent heard of spod, I'd look into it if you plan on installing a bunch of relays and fuses, etc..

You can use the switch panel that comes with it, or to your own switches anywhere youd like.

I hade the SE w/touchcreen.. That thing was awesome.
 
If you havent heard of spod, I'd look into it if you plan on installing a bunch of relays and fuses, etc..

You can use the switch panel that comes with it, or to your own switches anywhere youd like.

I hade the SE w/touchcreen.. That thing was awesome.
Cool but for the price I can build a good relay board and still have mony left over for more lights.

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