90 T4R A340H Trans Issue

[jprhome]

Ill try to make this as easy as possible.

1. Checked transmission fluid, Red & smells good. Fluid level is also on mark.
2. problem, 45-65 MPH has shudder in this driving range with O/D on feels like the runner is humping itself, RPM's are usually around 1800/2200

3. With O/D off still gets shudder around the same RPM 1800/2200 unless at 60 MPH RPM's are around 3000 and shudder is none existent.

4. Pressing brake slightly makes shudder stop immediately & after releasing brake shudder comes back.

5. When runner is cold, dead morning start & go has acceleration lag, when pressing gas from full stop takes a quarter of a second to actually fully react.
Usually when warmed up never exists. cap/rotor plugs and wires are new Beck/Arnley cap & rotor. NGK premium wires and G-Power spark plugs.

6. When fully stopped every now and again after releasing brake peddle the transmission jerks kinda like a rough downshift.

7. No slipping exists. no overheating issues from what I can see exists

That's all the issues I'm having in full explanation as possible.

My research so far has come to the Torque Converter having some sort of issue, also considering Solenoids more specifically the lock-up Solenoid which I think is #3. Considering buying the (3) Solenoid kit $165 after ship over single Solenoid buys as its around $140 cheaper singles runs around $100/per at this time if my Solenoid is the issue I'll pick up a new filter and gasket. Remaned Torque converter with core runs about $155 after core down to $105.

 

[silliam]

Ill try to make this as easy as possible.

1. Checked transmission fluid, Red & smells good. Fluid level is also on mark.
2. problem, 45-65 MPH has shudder in this driving range with O/D on feels like the runner is humping itself, RPM's are usually around 1800/2200

3. With O/D off still gets shudder around the same RPM 1800/2200 unless at 60 MPH RPM's are around 3000 and shudder is none existent.

4. Pressing brake slightly makes shudder stop immediately & after releasing brake shudder comes back.

5. When runner is cold, dead morning start & go has acceleration lag, when pressing gas from full stop takes a quarter of a second to actually fully react.
Usually when warmed up never exists. cap/rotor plugs and wires are new Beck/Arnley cap & rotor. NGK premium wires and G-Power spark plugs.

6. When fully stopped every now and again after releasing brake peddle the transmission jerks kinda like a rough downshift.

7. No slipping exists. no overheating issues from what I can see exists

That's all the issues I'm having in full explanation as possible.

My research so far has come to the Torque Converter having some sort of issue, also considering Solenoids more specifically the lock-up Solenoid which I think is #3. Considering buying the (3) Solenoid kit $165 after ship over single Solenoid buys as its around $140 cheaper singles runs around $100/per at this time if my Solenoid is the issue I'll pick up a new filter and gasket. Remaned Torque converter with core runs about $155 after core down to $105.

I have very similar issues. Replaced the 3 solenoids today, and no help. Had the same issues in previous gen 2 and that solved them. (BTW got all 3 for like $70 from a place in Houston, can find link if you want). From fsm no lock up can be due to everything from bad tps to coolant not being >178° so bad temp sensor? Or a handful of other things. I'm too exhausted from today's failure to think about it more tonight, but I'll check in tomorrow.

 

[jprhome]

I have very similar issues. Replaced the 3 solenoids today, and no help. Had the same issues in previous gen 2 and that solved them. (BTW got all 3 for like $70 from a place in Houston, can find link if you want). From fsm no lock up can be due to everything from bad tps to coolant not being >178° so bad temp sensor? Or a handful of other things. I'm too exhausted from today's failure to think about it more tonight, but I'll check in tomorrow.

Damn that's rough, I feel your disappointed feeling. Throwing that link toward me would help me quite a bit.

Hmm the TPS does have me thinking, reason why is that I was getting a engine code for the EGR for awhile but lately it's gone from the system. Being that the intake is pretty dirty from when I dug in and replaced my injector seals I noticed the EGR pipe was pretty dirty along with the top and lower intake (carbon build up). I'm thinking that it may be throwing the TPS off. I'll have to take a look at that.

Other then installing a trans fluid temp gauge, would there be another option for checking the temperature of the transmission fluid, as the gauge will be $$ and time that could end up either being a waste of time and funds in the short run. Id see it as a requirement in the long run just IMO.

Thanks for your reply and time. I hope you find the problem in your next attempt

 

[penbergm]

Are you sure it the trans? Sounds like the problem I had with my drive shaft & u joints. Replaced u joints and turned drive shaft so slip yoke was nearest the rear diff.
I was getting vibration just in 1 rpm range.

 

[fourwd1]

Could be the O/D solenoid, or the converter itself.

 

[jprhome]

When I was driving with a relative the other day going down a hill around 60-65MPH while giving the runner slight throttle around 2000-2300 RPM's you can hear this roaring type of vibration sound honestly kinda hard to explain lol there is no vibration, but they claimed that the sound is due to a bad u joint. I favored what they said because when at a full stop from driving down the road at times after releasing the brake I get a hard dunk from under the runner.

I'm honestly considering the Solenoid, torque converter, TPS, and or the Oil cooler which I just noticed the small one on the right side of the runner if sitting in the driver seat is covered in grease/dirt all over the side facing the front of the runner. Just earlier from about 50ish miles of driving I parked at papa murphy's and turned the runner off for about 5-6 minutes while my girl picked up a pizza once I started the runner back up I got more vibration then usual while idling in park noticeably more. After driving home about 4 miles I parked and idled but idle smoothly... stupid a hole runner don't you know I love you.....:redbrick:

 

[penbergm]

When I was driving with a relative the other day going down a hill around 60-65MPH while giving the runner slight throttle around 2000-2300 RPM's you can hear this roaring type of vibration sound honestly kinda hard to explain lol there is no vibration, but they claimed that the sound is due to a bad u joint. I favored what they said because when at a full stop from driving down the road at times after releasing the brake I get a hard dunk from under the runner.

stupid a hole runner don't you know I love you.....:redbrick:

This is exactly the problem I had. Changed the ujoints and then was going to change drive shaft but the guy at the drive shaft shop told me to try to reverse the shaft, slip yoke down. Have not had the vibration since.

 

[jprhome]

Jacked up the runner today and checked the U joints on the diff and trans side but no movement as hard as I could jiggle each end and turn it they stayed solid. the transmission moved more do to the transmission mount being worn out lol. visually inspected them and all seems to be good everything is where it should be.

Going to start by replacing the transmission mount for now since its obviously needed. going to test the tps here soon but I have a feeling its the solenoid, just based off all the forum searching and reading over the past week at leased 8-10 hours of searching and my own analysis I just feel I should start there.

 

[silliam]

Jacked up the runner today and checked the U joints on the diff and trans side but no movement as hard as I could jiggle each end and turn it they stayed solid. the transmission moved more do to the transmission mount being worn out lol. visually inspected them and all seems to be good everything is where it should be.

Going to start by replacing the transmission mount for now since its obviously needed. going to test the tps here soon but I have a feeling its the solenoid, just based off all the forum searching and reading over the past week at leased 8-10 hours of searching and my own analysis I just feel I should start there.

Did you pull solenoids codes? Just remembered I did in my 95 that I replaced them and solved and did not get codes on 93 that I have now, just went for the ol well if it worked the first time... I'll dig up the email on cheap solenoids supplier before I go to bed.

 

[silliam]

Did you pull solenoids codes? Just remembered I did in my 95 that I replaced them and solved and did not get codes on 93 that I have now, just went for the ol well if it worked the first time... I'll dig up the email on cheap solenoids supplier before I go to bed.

Got the solenoids from amazon, ship from Houston. More than $100 cheaper than if you order straight from Wellington.

 

[jprhome]

Alright man sounds good.

So far I have not got a check engine light to pull any codes. the only codes I've ever pulled from this runner was EGR. I'm just guessing because the previous owner that did the heads hooked the vacuum hoses up wrong which after I placed them into there correct areas some weeks later the check engine light stopped popping for the EGR. The check engine light does come on before I start the runner though so the light is operational just so that is known.

honestly if it's not the solenoid(s) maybe the fluid is getting overheated, the radiator is pretty worn out on this runner as I've seen small bubbling around the cap spout closes to the top of the reservoir (not the cap itself) although the runner never overheats and this bubbling is only from the engine coolant it could mean the rad is not cooling the oil sufficiently and just needs to be replaced in general. I have my eyes on a welded full aluminium replacement for about $125. The oil cooler itself coming off the trans either needs to be cleaned or just replaced as they only run $35-45 new as a kit.

By all means I'm not trying to just throw money at her like a stripper as I don't have the money to unload like I'm working on wallstreet lol. These are just things I have come across as general needed replaced items.

If I can't figure the issue with the trans before it gets worse and causes more permanent issues i'll be looking at a used unit for what looks like $750.. ouch

 

[jprhome]

Hell yeah brother thanks for the link! :whoo:

 

[silliam]

Hell yeah brother thanks for the link! :whoo:

No problem. The trans has it's own codes to the right of the check engine light by flashing the o/D off light. Just follow normal procedure of shorting T1 to E1, making sure o/D switch is off, and count the blinks. These transmissions aren't really known for going out (I don't think) so I'm going to keep trying to trouble shoot mine, plus I don't have $750 to drop on a "new" one. Lemme know how tps goes, that's on my list to get to next week.

 

[Ryros92runner]

Is there a way to disable the torque converter to see if this solves the problem?
We had an old full sized Bronco that would act up on hot days-shuddering and stalling out, spewing ATF from the fill tube.
Anyway, I talked to a mechanic buddy of mine, traced the wire for the torque converter lockup, clipped it, and the shudder went away.

If you have access to a FSM there is troubleshooting flowchart so you can troubleshoot the brake switch (possibly related to condition #4), solenoids, neutral start switch, etc.

Good luck,

Jim S

 

[jprhome]

Is there a way to disable the torque converter to see if this solves the problem?
We had an old full sized Bronco that would act up on hot days-shuddering and stalling out, spewing ATF from the fill tube.
Anyway, I talked to a mechanic buddy of mine, traced the wire for the torque converter lockup, clipped it, and the shudder went away.

If you have access to a FSM there is troubleshooting flowchart so you can troubleshoot the brake switch (possibly related to condition #4), solenoids, neutral start switch, etc.

Good luck,

Jim S

That's funny my father and I were just talking about that a couple days ago. He was asking me if there is a breather tube on the transmission, if that gets clogged it will start spilling ATF out the fill tube which will cause shudder. I told him I don't think there is one and ATF is not coming from the tube lol.

Thanks for the idea on the FSM I've never looked into the FSM but after a few links I found out a few things.

I have to get ready for work here in a minute but I just read that the O/D off light will not blink for the lock up solenoid silliam, only will it blink for #1 & #2

(a) If a malfunction occurs within the vehicle speed sen–
sors (No. 1 or 2) or solenoids (No. 1 or 2), the over–
drive OFF light will blink to warn the driver.
However, there will be no warning of a malfunction
with lock–up solenoid.

more on this later gatta go do some slave labor :jump:

 

[jprhome]

Not sure if the issue I'm having is shudder.

problem is happening when i'm getting around 45MPH all the way to 70MPH on flat or when I'm going up a hill around 45-60MPH with RPM's under 2700 usually in what seems to be 4th gear O/D. As I press the accelerator down further before transmission downshifts I can get the issue to stop.

On hills the problem is way more noticeable and happens usually all the way up the hill unless I press the throttle further down and achieve around 3000+ RPM's usually jumps down to 3rd gear

The feeling I get is what feels like a back pull from under the runner. I don't get vibration nor backfire or any weird engine noise.

Today I flushed out my old fluid and it was pretty dark, I spent about $75 on fluid just to feel this tank, but I still have the same pull back feeling.

When going from reverse on the shifter to drive I get a slight tap sound from under the runner.

I have tried stopping and holding the break while pressing on the accelerator to see if the torque converter is bad but I don't get any bad response from it.

I've ordered in a new trans mount, I have an idea because I get some shaking at higher speeds when barely pressing the accelerator around 60-65MPH that I may have a bad U-joint or yoke etc. going to see how the u-joint acts when I get the trans properly supported.

I also ordered a new internal trans filter. Going to test the solenoids during replacement.

I dunno what else to expect if its not something past the valve body or the body itself.

If anyone has any light to shed on this pull back feeling and what may be causing it, much thanks