92 3.0 Running REAL Rich

[FubarGrn]

Alrighty, so I bought this truck a few weeks back. It was running REALLY craptastically. I put Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor/K&N Air Filter on it. Still ran like crap. Engine Code was saying O2 Sensor was bad, replaced that. Truck runs GREAT. Only problem is now... it's blowing blue smoke out of the tailpipe that smells horribly of gas. It doesn't go away with temp, and I am showing no codes, no engine light, nothing. I've got emissions test coming up in a few weeks too :|

The Cat was replaced very recently (it's still shiny and new). So I'm pretty sure that's alright.

I've added a bottle of Lucas fuel cleaner a tank of gas ago. When I filled up yesterday, I dumped in a can of Seafoam into the fuel.

when I took the old cap off, I noticed that 3 out of 6 of the Contacts inside the cap were EATEN CLEAN OFF. No apparent damage to the rotor though.

 

[turboSR5]

Have you checked the timing?

 

[FubarGrn]

Have you checked the timing?

no, I do think I need to get a new timing light though. Also, a new problem has developed.

When I bought the truck, the dealership said that the clutch was slipping. I drove it home that day, and it slipped REAL bad all the way home (I live in a pretty mountainous area). It slipped for about a day after, and then stopped slipping all together. I chalked it up to "It sat for a while, the hydraulic clutch must have had a fluid issue". It hasn't slipped for over two weeks, then today it starts it again. Is there a bleed down for the clutch? If so, where is it? Is it recommended to replace the DOT3 in it completely? The DOT3 in there now is REALLY Brown (DOT3 is clear...). Is there any other way to readjust the clutch?

Also, the mechanic I had fix some things for it to pass MD inspection overfilled my brake fluid master cylinder (I mean right up to the dang cap!). The brakes work fine, but is the overfilled Master Cylinder dangerous?.

 

[turboSR5]

To bleed that old brown fluid you need to find the slave cylinder, it is bolted onto the passenger side of the transmission. Your old fluid is contaminated with dirt and water, best to get that out of there. If you are unsure on how to do this then go to your local parts store and pick up a Hayne's repair manual or go to Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page and download the FSM that applies to your vehicle.
Not sure what to think about your slipping clutch, it does sound like it is getting oil from the rear main seal on it possibly though. Either way, if you need to replace the clutch the main seal should be replaced at the same time anyway.

 

[FubarGrn]

To bleed that old brown fluid you need to find the slave cylinder, it is bolted onto the passenger side of the transmission. Your old fluid is contaminated with dirt and water, best to get that out of there. If you are unsure on how to do this then go to your local parts store and pick up a Hayne's repair manual or go to Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page and download the FSM that applies to your vehicle.
Not sure what to think about your slipping clutch, it does sound like it is getting oil from the rear main seal on it possibly though. Either way, if you need to replace the clutch the main seal should be replaced at the same time anyway.

Allrighty, I climbed under the beast, to see what I could see. The Back side of the engine, from the valve covers to the bellhousing are doused in oil. isn't Dripping on the ground, but rather a sticky mess clinging to the back of the engine, and the bellhousing. I wonder if a leaking valve cover (driver's side) could be the source of the oil on the clutch.

I'd really hate to have to price out getting the fricking rear main seal replaced. I have the know-how, just neither the time, money, or place to do it.

The clutch slave cylinder looks damp, but not really "wet". Thank god it's only 12 bucks though, think I might just replace the dang thing.