92 4Runner Max Tire Size

Stillrunning

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I want to install some 32x11.5x15 mud tires on my stock 92.It's a 4cyl with 4.10s.Its going to be used primarily in the bush and mud.I want to cut the fenders and add flares.Any suggestions?I'd even consider going with a 31" tire.

What do I have to do besides cutting the fenders?
 
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Some kind of small lift (body or suspension) would help with the 32's, and probably eliminate the need for cutting sheetmetal. A narrower tire would also make for less work.
 
I want to install some 32x11.5x15 mud tires on my stock 92.It's a 4cyl with 4.10s.Its going to be used primarily in the bush and mud.I want to cut the fenders and add flares.Any suggestions?I'd even consider going with a 31" tire.

What do I have to do besides cutting the fenders?

31x10.5 should fit without mods. '92 is coil in the rear, right? Coil spring spacer in the rear and a ball joint spacer in front, and you shouldn't need to trim to fit 32x11.5's. You might need a rim with a touch less backspacing.
 
How hard is it to install the BJ spacers?Why do I need a rim with a different offset?I was hoping to reuse the factory aluminums.
 
How hard is it to install the BJ spacers?Why do I need a rim with a different offset?I was hoping to reuse the factory aluminums.

Not hard at all. There's an awesome writeup on SDORI.com.

The bigger you go, the closer your tires get to the inside of your fender and the various steering/suspension components, which can lead to rub. Changing your backspacing moves the inside edge of the tire away from your truck, which can help if your clearance issues are during turning.

If you need to do that, and dig your rims too much to change them, look into wheel spacers, like Spidertrax. Either way, you might need flares to stay street legal.

This all depends on your rig, too. Depending on the exact tire you use and how soggy your front suspension is, all or none of the above could apply.
 
Not hard at all. There's an awesome writeup on SDORI.com.

Gonna have to qualify this statement... went to install my own balljoint spacers yesterday, and it's a FPITA.

Not the spacers themselves, the concept is simple as pie. But to install them, you'll need to remove the 4 studs from your ball joint that bolt it to the control arm. When said studs are frozen to the ball joint so hard that 10 minutes of pounding with a 4lb sledge doesn't budge them, it's time to think about just replacing the whole damned ball joint. What the heck, they're 20 bucks and probably need replaced anyway after I just spent 10 minutes hitting them with a BFH.

Except the castle nut holding the ball joint to the steering knuckle is also stuck. :rant: I've gone through half a can of PB Blast and bent a chunk of conduit I was using as a cheater bar. :ybrick:

So. Not hard at all, assuming your suspension parts aren't fused into a solid mass of rust. I'm going to try a couple more things tonight, then it's off to Big-O to have them install new ball joints. Hopefully I can look innocent enough when they come back and tell me how many wrenches they broke. :D
 
Welcome to the real world, vs guessing.


And Stillrunning, since 31" tires was a factory option, fitting them on is easy.
 
I'll start spraying my ball joints now.My truck has 472kms on it so I 'm pretty sure that this job will provide some resistance.Hopefully they've been replaced once already so things won't be so stuck.
 
i took my wheels and tires off my 76 jimmy and put em right on the runner...33x12.50! fit fine...lil trimming in the front pinch weld but good to go!
 
I put 32's on my stock 94 and trimmed a 1" piece off the front valence. It was only rubbing when I went wheeling and on off-camber turns. No problems anymore. Now I just need 4.88's and a locker
 

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