92 Rear Speakers Subwoofer?

[272sj]

I just had a pioneer head w/ cd/radio/ipod connection installed in place of the OEM premium cd/tape/radio head. Also replaced the rear speakers in the side-pods. It now sounds like there's no bass compared to the factory system.

The factory system had an external amp that the shop tech bypassed, saying it wasn't needed w/ the new deck's power output.

Is there a factory sub in the 92 prem sound system that's possibly not connected now?

T-dealer parts dept said there's possibly 8" speaker somewhere in the back.. don't know where... could this be right?

I'm new to the board and tried to research before posting... got lots of ideas but no direct hits. One post mentioned power required at the rear pods to drive the speakers that mount in the pods. Any clue if that's the case?

Any/all suggestions are appreciated. Hope to post what I learn after 'fixing' my tunes.

THANKS!

Here's the latest ... ...

- Dealer drawings show 6 speakers in the '92 4runner
+ 2 front lower dash 4"
+ 2 tweeters in rear ceiling panel above tailgate
+ 2 in rear cargo side panel/pods 5-1/4"

- I replaced the spkrs w/ Pioneer
+ Front
Had Boston CX4's in front that I'd replaced before
Thought they'd blown but just had bad connection
Tech replaced them anyway with Pioneer TSG1041R
Sound fine but suspect the Boston's might've been better
+ Rear Tweeters
Left the OEMs in place
+ Rear Sides
Replaced with Pioneer TSG1341R
Don't have the same base output as the OEMs
Still puzzled if I'm missing something

What can I do besides springing for a subwoofer?
- Any recommendations for a good, affordable sub?
- Prefer not taking up too much cargo space...

What's the best 5-1/4"'s for bass output? The OEM 5-1/4s were single speakers, not coaxial 2-ways since the tweeters are seperate in the overhead.

THANKS!

 

[OSIRIS]

I think your issue is that you have aftermarket speakers with a lower db rating and although the speakers are better quality they need more power to play them at the same volume. It is an efficiency issue. Get a 4 channel amp, 50 watts is a good amount for the four/six speaker set up in the 4Runner and adjust the bass boost on the amplifier if it has one. I have Profile amps and they are about the best bang for the buck. 0.05% distortion and good separation. Check out other amps, but I think that is your issue.

 

[272sj]

Appreciate your suggestion. I just installed a Pioneer DEH P3800 MP. It is rated at 22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels. Is this not sufficient?

Seems like the bass output overpowers the speakers. The speakers seem to lack bass response compared to the factory set-up.

THANKS,

 

[OSIRIS]

Appreciate your suggestion. I just installed a Pioneer DEH P3800 MP. It is rated at 22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels. Is this not sufficient?

Seems like the bass output overpowers the speakers. The speakers seem to lack bass response compared to the factory set-up.

THANKS,

No. You are turning the HU up all the way and getting into distortion. The bass frequencies use more wattage and current to reproduce than high frequencies. So as you turn it up you are using up your 22 watts real quick. 22 watts is what you have continuously and 50 watts is what you have on peaks for about a nano-second at a time. When looking at amps, don't look at peak power, look at RMS or continuous power. If you put on a 50 watt x 4 channel amp, then you will have much better sound quality and be able to have more MID-bass. You will not have bass with just the 4/6 speaker set up in the 4Runner. It is true that the Toyota's speakers seemed like they had so much more bass, but they are just efficient speakers that are specifically designed for the space they are in and create their sound because of their environment. You can find a Profile amp on www.Crutchfield.com. They have 50 or 60 watters for about $140. Again, you will have only MID-bass as the speakers themselves do not move a lot of air volume and that is what you need to produce deep, vehiclular vibrating bass. If you want BASS, then you would need to get a sub box and subwoofer drivers. I like the Pyle PRO AUDIOs. You don't hear a lot of people talking about Pyles anymore, but they make the best paper cone sub for the money in my opinion. You can get the 10" or 12" woofers around $40 - $45 each and that is just awesome. Now all the companies make these polyprolene cones for ruggedness, but they are heavier and weaker in bass tonal sound quality than true paper cones. I prefer the paper cones, but that is just me. Then you make your own box out of MFD board. You will have to get a big amp to push them. I got a Profile AP1200 - 200 W RMS for my subs. It may seem like a lot, but you need a lot of power to accurately control the bass. Another thing about power is that to be twice as loud as before you need 10 TIMES the wattage. That means for your Pioneer speakers to be twice as loud as they are with your HU, then you will have to get an amp that is 220 W RMS, so the 50 Watts I was telling you to get is not twice as loud, but just 20-25% louder, but more importantly much cleaner, clearer and more precise. You'd be able to hear more music at higher volumes which is like getting a whole new CD collection!

There is a lot to getting a stereo into your car and different things make a big difference. Talking to your local shop goes a long way, but reading up to learn the basics will help you a lot more in terms of getting ripped off. I wouldn't have gotten those Pioneers personally. It also depends on what sound you like also. Go to a local stereo specialist shop and not Best Buy or Circuit City!

Just my 45 cents.