93 4runner cranks has fuel and spark but wont start

[Turbomrdeuce]

got a 93 4runner 4x4 auto v6, the car crank, has fuel and spark but it wont start. Timing is good, i tried unplugging the efi fuse and replugging it back in still nothing. Tried spraying starter fluid down the throttle and still wont fire. The spark plugs are not wet but they do smell like gas...... Could it be a ground i forgot? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bad_Vision]

if you sprayed starter fluid and it didnt even sputter then you have issues try a extra ground then check into timing again maybe your timing chain snapped

 

[4runner_kid]

if you sprayed starter fluid and it didnt even sputter then you have issues try a extra ground then check into timing again maybe your timing chain snapped

There is no timing chain on the v6, it's a belt.

 

[Bad_Vision]

same idea but yes i overlooked the V6 part. thanks

 

[Turbomrdeuce]

tried everything so far, im taking off the front cover to see if maybe the belt didnt jump a tooth

 

[4runner_kid]

same idea but yes i overlooked the V6 part. thanks

:cheers:

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

93 Pickup 3.0. got spark and fuel but it wont run?

I know this is an old thread but i need some help.
The truck is a 93 manual 4x4 with the 3.0, i did a motor swap with an engine out of a 89 4runner. Had to change the distributor and the coolant manifold on the rear of the engine but got it in and she ran like a dream for about 3 days. Went out and started it the other morning and it ran great for about 10 seconds and then just started missing out. Not i can not get it to start at all. I have fuel all the way to the injectors, good pulse when it is cranked. Got spark, replaced the coil, plugs wires cap and rotor. Pulled the timing cover off and all the marks are lined up. I checked the distributor and its good. Swappedthe AFM with a spare i have and know is good, still nothing. It will start and run like it is hitting on 3 cylinders if you carnk on it long enough but only for a few seconds.
I am 100% stumped, any insight would be greatly appreciated! he

 

[Bad_Vision]

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak issue.
Get a spray bottle, fill it with water, start the engine and start spraying the water on mist setting around the area you replaced the intake manifold gaskets! If it starts to run better when you mist a certain location then you have a vacuum leak in that area.

Essentially the water creates a temporary seal that allows the proper vacuum pressure.

Be aware that the small rubber hoses can have cracks as well and if that is the leak location water will also work there for diagnosis.

 

[jasonochs25]

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak issue.
Get a spray bottle, fill it with water, start the engine and start spraying the water on mist setting around the area you replaced the intake manifold gaskets! If it starts to run better when you mist a certain location then you have a vacuum leak in that area.

Essentially the water creates a temporary seal that allows the proper vacuum pressure.

Be aware that the small rubber hoses can have cracks as well and if that is the leak location water will also work there for diagnosis.

Ive never heard of using water. Ive always used carb cleaner or brake cleaner. When you find the spot, the engine will rev higher. Just be forewarned that these two chemicals are flammable so be extra careful around hot areas like headers, exhaust, etc.

Water certainly sounds safer!

 

[Bad_Vision]

Ive never heard of using water. Ive always used carb cleaner or brake cleaner. When you find the spot, the engine will rev higher. Just be forewarned that these two chemicals are flammable so be extra careful around hot areas like headers, exhaust, etc.



Water certainly sounds safer!

It takes more water in comparison to brake cleaner or carb cleaner but yes it works great and it's damn near free. So taking more of it to diagnose is ok by me!

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

Thanks for the quick replies fellas!
I have checked and rechecked the vacume hoses and the grounds. I can't even get it to run at all now. I'm positive that the intake gasket is sealed, it was sucking air after the swap and i fixed it. i have spark and now that i have cranked and cranked it reeks of gas. Im thinking about pulling the plugs and blowing all the gas out of the cylinders and then putting in a fresh set.
I had code 24 before i cleared the codes??? But the AFM checked out good?
Im going to need a new fender when its all said and done, there is now a big dent in the ol girl where ive been beating my head!:nerd:

 

[Bad_Vision]

Did you check the timing maybe you jumped a tooth?

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

I did check the timing, that was my first thought. I pulled the cover off and all the marks lined up and the belt looked fairly new

 

[Bstrom]

Is there a Crank Position Sensor on these vehicles? That's all it would take to kill the engine if it isn't sending a signal to fire the plugs. Just a guess...

 

[Bad_Vision]

It does sound electronic if the timing is correct then it would have to be.

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

That code 24 is coolant temp sensor, there are 2 in manifold i think. There is one about as big as say a dime, i broke that one and replaced it when i did the swap but i think that one is for the gauge. Would you think the other one for the ECU would keep it from running?

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

Well,, i just replaced the coolant temp sensor and went through all the wiring again, and still no start... when i pulled the ducting off for the mass air sensor i literally poured gas out of it. Im not sure if this was from cranking on it for two days or maybe a problem in the fuel system?
I am still stumped and am thinking about looking for a ECU and throwing another 100$ at it?!

Do any of you know if the igniter is bad will i still get spark?

 

[Bad_Vision]

You will but you may not get the required voltage to complete the burn.
If you have fuel in your air intake you have back compression coming from the cylinders pushing fuel up into the manifold that means timing is off or valve is not seating allowing fuel to get pushed the wrong direction.

 

[JEFFGRANT00]

I took the distributor out to check the gear on the end and i have it back in now but ive not been able to get the truck to run to re-set the timing. Would the timing be off enough with adjustment of the distributor to cause the fuel in the intake?
When i pulled the timing cover i had the motor ar TDC on the crank pully and both the cam marks lined up with the marks on the engine. I ordered a ignitor and an ECU, it will ba a week before they get here but ive got my fingers crossed.
Any suggestions on what to check while im waiting on parts? :yield:

 

[nicnmike]

pull the vac line of the fuel pressure regulator. See if gas squirts out while trying to crank it.