JEFFGRANT00
New member
I am on a train out of town till tomorrow night but just wondering what will that tell me if gas does come out of the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator?
93 4runner cranks has fuel and spark but wont start
- Thread starter Turbomrdeuce
- Start date
If you line up the timing marks to TDC and check the distributor for proper rotor orientation to cylinder #1 you should be able to get some response. You will benefit by getting a low cost spark tester and see if you have spark everywhere or at lease pull off a wire from a spark plug and use a spare plug to see if you have spark. If the contacts between the cap and rotor are really crudded up, this situation would be what you get.
If the distributor was used when you installed it, take the pickup out and have it tested.
Also on older distributors that have set or been in a motor thats been overheated the insulators in the distributor become brittle and and cause a short inside the distributor.
pull the distributor out slightly and have someone crank the engine and watch for arching, this is best done at night or in the dark
Also on older distributors that have set or been in a motor thats been overheated the insulators in the distributor become brittle and and cause a short inside the distributor.
pull the distributor out slightly and have someone crank the engine and watch for arching, this is best done at night or in the dark
nicnmike
New member
After my rebuild mine wouldn't start. I could smell gas and some how I pinpointed it to the pressure regulator. Gas would squirt out a little when turning the engine over. The excess fuel can flood the engine and keep it from starting. The fuel you found in your intake duct work may have come from there. I replaced my pressure regulator and it started without it much issue.
JEFFGRANT00
New member
IC, i will check the fuel pressure regulator as soon as i get in!
As far as the dizzy goes, is the pickup the part just under the rotor?
I did a Google search and all i could find on that was the coil.
Im not a super dummy but this truck is going to give me a ulser:rip:
As far as the dizzy goes, is the pickup the part just under the rotor?
I did a Google search and all i could find on that was the coil.
Im not a super dummy but this truck is going to give me a ulser:rip:
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Just to add to your misery, check your oil dipstick when you're all done with this. If your oil smells like fuel, change it! With all the fuel you seem to have in the intake, chances are your cylinders are filled with fuel too, which will leak past the rings and into the pan. Cylinder washout is not good, so try to keep it to a minimum while you're working on the engine. If it don't start in a couple of seconds while cranking, stop!
At this point, I'd go through and get the engine at TDC, check the distributor's mark to make sure its dead-on. If you have a healthy spark at the spark plug (I figure you've already pulled one and checked it, right?), you shouldn't have to deal with the distributor any more and move on to other areas, such as fuel regulator that's stuck closed and forcing full shots of fuel into the cylinders.
It still strikes me as strange that you would have fuel literally running out of the airflow meter's tubing, perhaps its a stuck wide open cold start injector? Easy way to tell is to just pull the harness clip off the injector and go from there. In fact, I'd do it while testing other stuff just to make sure you're not re-flooding the engine again.
At this point, I'd go through and get the engine at TDC, check the distributor's mark to make sure its dead-on. If you have a healthy spark at the spark plug (I figure you've already pulled one and checked it, right?), you shouldn't have to deal with the distributor any more and move on to other areas, such as fuel regulator that's stuck closed and forcing full shots of fuel into the cylinders.
It still strikes me as strange that you would have fuel literally running out of the airflow meter's tubing, perhaps its a stuck wide open cold start injector? Easy way to tell is to just pull the harness clip off the injector and go from there. In fact, I'd do it while testing other stuff just to make sure you're not re-flooding the engine again.
Bad_Vision
Moderator
flyinhawaiian01
New member
BWWAAAHAHAHAHAHHAAAAA!!!!! Yeah, I'm mellowing in my old age!!!
Although, there are those days when I can be a total ass!!!!
Although, there are those days when I can be a total ass!!!!
JEFFGRANT00
New member
Thanks for the input fellas! As soon as i get home ill let you know what i find, hopefully by tomorrow evening. Ill stop on the way home and grab a jug of oil,,
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
JEFFGRANT00
New member
Stumped...
Well, i got home and ran some more checks.. I double triple checked the timing,,, its good. I pulled all the plugs and have good sharp blue spark. I got an ignitor in the mail so i went ahead and put that in,,, no change..
Pulled the vacume hose off the fuel pressure regulator and no fuel came out. While i had all the plugs out i un hooked the fuel pump at the harness under the bed and cranked it a few times to blow the exess fuel out of the cylinders. I left the pump unplugged and gave it a sniff of either and still the same, it ""kinda"" starts but acts like its only hitting on a cylinder or two and dies almost immediately.
I feel likethis pickup is kicking my butt and wallet!! As a recap i have installed cap rotor ignitor coil plugs & wires. Checked and double checked all the grounds, tried to start it with the cold start senser unplugged, replaced both coolant temp sensors, tried a spare AFM that i have and tried to get it to run with no fuel from the pump only either.
I have a ECU on the way, not sure where else to look but i am completely stumped. Any ideas are welcome and very very much appreciated! !
Thanks again fellas
Well, i got home and ran some more checks.. I double triple checked the timing,,, its good. I pulled all the plugs and have good sharp blue spark. I got an ignitor in the mail so i went ahead and put that in,,, no change..
Pulled the vacume hose off the fuel pressure regulator and no fuel came out. While i had all the plugs out i un hooked the fuel pump at the harness under the bed and cranked it a few times to blow the exess fuel out of the cylinders. I left the pump unplugged and gave it a sniff of either and still the same, it ""kinda"" starts but acts like its only hitting on a cylinder or two and dies almost immediately.
I feel likethis pickup is kicking my butt and wallet!! As a recap i have installed cap rotor ignitor coil plugs & wires. Checked and double checked all the grounds, tried to start it with the cold start senser unplugged, replaced both coolant temp sensors, tried a spare AFM that i have and tried to get it to run with no fuel from the pump only either.
I have a ECU on the way, not sure where else to look but i am completely stumped. Any ideas are welcome and very very much appreciated! !
Thanks again fellas
JEFFGRANT00
New member
The ECU came today, i put it in and still the same results. Im surrender! !! I cant for the life of me figure out what the hecks the matter with this truck. Im hoping that it didn't jump time and i missed it some how when i pulled the cover off. """IF""" it has jumped a tooth would i still have spark on all cylinders?
nicnmike
New member
Timing is exactly what it sounds like, the engine is timed to spark at an exact moment. You could still have spark and not have the engine timed properly. Have you checked the tps? Some folks have issues with clogged catalytic converters. I don't know if that would cause the issues you're having.
It's weird that it ran well for 3 days and then died on you.
It's weird that it ran well for 3 days and then died on you.
JEFFGRANT00
New member
I swapped the tps with a good one i had, there is no cat on the truck. It was destined for the scrap yard when i found it and they cut it off.
I'm thinking it had to have jumped time, there is nothing else i can think of. Im gonna yank the cover off again tomorrow and i hope like heck it has jumped time. In that case at least ill have something to fix!
I'm thinking it had to have jumped time, there is nothing else i can think of. Im gonna yank the cover off again tomorrow and i hope like heck it has jumped time. In that case at least ill have something to fix!
JEFFGRANT00
New member
One more question, i feel like a dummy even asking but i want to be 110% sure of what im looking at. I line up the crank at 0° and the two cams should line up with the marks up top correct?
nicnmike
New member
That's what the good book says.
I don't know what to tell you. Beyond my expertise. Keep us updated. If you figure it out, someone will benefit from this thread.
JEFFGRANT00
New member
Will do, as soon as i get the problem solved i will post the results!
Thanks again
Thanks again
Bad_Vision
Moderator
Have you tested a single part with a bolt meter? All I see is you throwing parts at it! Have you confirmed with a meter that any of the parts are even good?? Like your MAF?
JEFFGRANT00
New member
Yes,,, i don't have a bolt meter but i have been wearing my "volt" meter out:cowboy:
Ive tested and re-tested all parts except the computer that were replaced. I have seen coils in the past that looked good with the meter but were bad. The igniter, i wasn't 100% sure i did the test for it right and i found one for 45$ and figured for that price it was worth having a spare if it was good.. I have a spare MAF that i took off a running 3.0 that i did a 22re swap on.
Ive tested and re-tested all parts except the computer that were replaced. I have seen coils in the past that looked good with the meter but were bad. The igniter, i wasn't 100% sure i did the test for it right and i found one for 45$ and figured for that price it was worth having a spare if it was good.. I have a spare MAF that i took off a running 3.0 that i did a 22re swap on.
flyinhawaiian01
New member
Let's run down the list again, so that we know what's been done so far...
Mechanical timing set correctly, ie,. crank at 0, cams set to the marks like this image:
Distributor installed correctly and also landing on #1 plug at TDC.
Spark on ALL 6 PLUGS good and bright when cranking over engine (looked for blue spark on each wire)
TPS is correctly set according to manual
MAF is showing correct resistance according to manual's test
Compression is between 140-180psi on all cylinders
Leak down test is showing less than 20% loss if its an older engine, 10% if its freshly rebuilt. Here's some extra info on why a leakdown test is so important to do, especially at this point of your build:
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
At this point, I would stop spending money on parts, especially electronic parts since you can't normally return those, and concentrate on getting everything mechanical re-tested, re-seated, re-installed and re-aligned. Jumping around with different new parts will not get you repaired, it will just make you poor!
And I don't recall anyone asking this yet, but since you're able to crank it over, what error codes are you getting from the ecu? That alone may tell you exactly where to look at this point! You may have something disconnected or not quite clicked together and the ecu won't start because of it, and if its thrown a code for a sensor, it could be as easy as re-checking the connector! Those pins in the molex connectors can indeed get pushed out when you click them together, and any slight movement of the wiring, the pins won't make contact!
Go through this list in an order you're comfortable with, then report back with all your findings. This way we can rule out those things and move to other stuff, although I would be willing to bet that you figure it out while doing these tests.
Mechanical timing set correctly, ie,. crank at 0, cams set to the marks like this image:
Distributor installed correctly and also landing on #1 plug at TDC.
Spark on ALL 6 PLUGS good and bright when cranking over engine (looked for blue spark on each wire)
TPS is correctly set according to manual
MAF is showing correct resistance according to manual's test
Compression is between 140-180psi on all cylinders
Leak down test is showing less than 20% loss if its an older engine, 10% if its freshly rebuilt. Here's some extra info on why a leakdown test is so important to do, especially at this point of your build:
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
At this point, I would stop spending money on parts, especially electronic parts since you can't normally return those, and concentrate on getting everything mechanical re-tested, re-seated, re-installed and re-aligned. Jumping around with different new parts will not get you repaired, it will just make you poor!
And I don't recall anyone asking this yet, but since you're able to crank it over, what error codes are you getting from the ecu? That alone may tell you exactly where to look at this point! You may have something disconnected or not quite clicked together and the ecu won't start because of it, and if its thrown a code for a sensor, it could be as easy as re-checking the connector! Those pins in the molex connectors can indeed get pushed out when you click them together, and any slight movement of the wiring, the pins won't make contact!
Go through this list in an order you're comfortable with, then report back with all your findings. This way we can rule out those things and move to other stuff, although I would be willing to bet that you figure it out while doing these tests.
