'95 2WD: brake shimmy

betelnut

New member
Howdy all,

I've had my 4Runner for about 4 months now, and I'm trying to fix a few problems during the school break.

The truck shimmies when hitting the brakes. It's definitely the front brakes. Braking at high speeds or low, the shimmy can be felt both through the brake pedal and through the car. I took off the front wheels and spun them, but there's no visible warpage of the rotors; I might be able to borrow a depth gauge from someone for further testing.

There's also a slight wobble at high speed (60 MPH); I don't see how the brakes could cause this, but maybe someone will think it's relevant.

A last problem is the pedal travels a little farther than I'm comfortable with before the braking starts. The problem here is that you have to have some finesse on the brake pedal over that travel distance (think: trigger creep) or it's easy to accidentally mash the brakes pretty hard. I sort of suspect the rear drums are out of adjustment, but it's surprising, since there's the automatic adjustment mechanism (boy I'd sure like to swap those for disc brakes).

Any thoughts are highly appreciated. I have a pair of rotors in the trunk, but if they're not the problem, I can take them back; also, the job's a little harder than my previous vehicles, since you have to pull the hub apart, from the looks of it.
 
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My Jetta did that after a few months and it had to do with uneven wear on the tires due to an allignment issue. It always shook, but it was much stronger when braking.
 
The OEM rotors are garbage and warp quickly. There was a TSB on my '90 and the dealer replaced them twice until I finally trashed the OE's and went with the Brermbos. Replace with Brembos (or what you have) and some decent pads (PF, Hawk, etc.).

It's tough to get a good balance on Toyota truck wheels. Find a shop that has experience and knows all about hubcentric vs lugcentric balancing. Wheel shimmy due to imbalance is chronic on the 4R's.

Adjust your brakes by alternating driving in reverse and forward while pumping the emergency brake. That should help raise the pedal a bit.
 
Parking brake trick worked!

Awesome, the parking brake trick worked! I wonder why daily use of the parking brake didn't maintain the right adjustment all along.

I dug up my depth gauge but am waiting for my 54mm socket to arrive in the mail before I do more testing. Thanks for the ideas, and I'll get back with my results.
 
Solved

Well, replaced the rotors along with brake pads, and it brakes smooth as anything. The right side was 0.0030" warped, where the Toyota manual says to replace the rotors if 0.0035" runout. I forgot to check the left side.

I'm impressed that the parts are so easy to work with. I've always had difficulties working on my past vehicles, which have had hard to reach screws, bolts that were practically made to be stripped, and awful documentation. This job, however, I was able to plan accurately from start to finish, and went hitchlessly.

There were two annoying things about the job. My other vehicles have always had the rotor in front of the hub, so there was never a need to take apart the hub to change the rotor. Is this a truck thing? The silver lining is that there was a clear procedure for adjusting the bearings, no guesswork.

The other annoying thing is the brake line that attaches the caliper to the upstream flexible brake line is rigid, so in order to remove the caliper, the brake lines must be opened, forcing them to be bled. Again, the silver lining is that the bleeding was extremely easy compared to past jobs (I've had the worst imaginable luck bleeding Yamaha brakes).

Total job took over 3 hours, and I'm extremely happy with the results.

Thanks for the advice!
 

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