95 4x4 upper & lower control arm bushings replacement HELP!!! and rear bushings???

mark808

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95 4x4 upper & lower control arm bushings replacement HELP!!! and rear bushings???

OK this is a serious undertaking for me the ball joints upper and lower not such a big deal. What will I need to replace these bushings up to metric sizes in sockets and all other tools, etc. Pictures would help and I am going to try and do the rear myself as well, or am I over my head? If I can do all this and do it right thast is my main concern then perhaps I can pick the proper suspension lift and install myself? Thanks to everyone for all of your help much respect.:fishing:
 
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Les Schwab also does this job as well. They quoted me on the west coast about 385 for front left and right Upper Control arms. I have heard the main pain point is just getting the bushings out but if you want to do it yourself see if you just can't find a shop with a machine press to do it for you.
 
I posted pics and did this task a few years back. I'd start with the rear suspension first for the rebuild. Then , work your way up to the front. Once the front a-frames are rebuilt, it will need a proper alignment. Here are some of the parts on my suspension rebuild:
1) Sway-a-way Torsion bars 25mm
2) new Toyota Torsion bar adjusting hardware, Olathe Toyota Parts Dept(online)
3) Complete Urethane bushing Kit, suspension.com
4) MOOG rear coil springs
5) factory shocks, toyota
6) Ball Joints (NPN, japan made)
7) Wurth copper anti-seize and Mobil 1 synthetic marine grease for urethane bushings
regards
 
If your gona pull the a arms might as well lift it

Yeah, no. A vehicle should never be modified "just because". The OP should lift his truck if he needs or even wants to lift it, but it should be a researched decision, not for the hell of it. That's how trucks get screwed up.
 
I know I can do the job I just have never done this and know that it will be a serious job to get it done 1 person without all the help of a modern garage and going solo. I do want and need the suspension lift. Has anyone heard any info on tuf country susp. lifts, good or bad?
 
I found that buying the upper control arms new, with ball joints and bushings already installed, was almost the same price as the parts alone (ball joints and bushings alone). That way I also had no need to mess with replacing the bushings, just unbolt old, instal new, get alignment.
 
Control arms at Rock Auto are 109 each with bushings and balljoints. Ready to bolt on. The Bushing and ball joints add up to $75
 
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from the little research i did when i was gonna do mine. most if not everyone had to torch the old bushing out. it was too much work and money so i just brought a Blazeland LT kit that comes with upper and lower arms with new poly bushings
 
I don't like poly bushings for off road. They don't have the same flex as rubber and give a harsher ride. Granted that might be great for a street car but when rough stuff is concerned give me rubber, even if they do wear out faster. That's of course just my opinion for the sake of open dialog and is up for debate.
 
Control arms at Rock Auto are 109 each with bushings and balljoints. Ready to bolt on. The Bushing and ball joints add up to $75
Upper control arms only. and the ball joint... you don't want the mevotech, they're crap. I'd like to choose which balljoint i want to use, as there are huge quality differences.

from the little research i did when i was gonna do mine. most if not everyone had to torch the old bushing out. it was too much work and money so i just brought a Blazeland LT kit that comes with upper and lower arms with new poly bushings
That is to install energy poly bushings. If you want stock bushings, rockauto sells them and you have to press the old ones out and the new ones in. My local mechanic charged me $20 to do this, took them a few minutes.

I don't like poly bushings for off road. They don't have the same flex as rubber and give a harsher ride. Granted that might be great for a street car but when rough stuff is concerned give me rubber, even if they do wear out faster. That's of course just my opinion for the sake of open dialog and is up for debate.

Poly lasts longer and is smoother, it's not going to be a massive difference, just a more solid feel on the road.

IMHO the biggest PIA's in changing the bushings, is making sure the adjusting bolts aren't seized (then you have to cut them out) and the torsion bar bolts may also be seized. Everything else is straightforward. When i did mine, i replaced / rebuilt everything. See my build thread here... Southern Ontario Toyota Trucks ? View topic - My 89' 4runner
 
I work at advance auto and we "rent" a tool that makes this job alot easier, yeah it costs $89 but you get it back when the tool is returned. Deposit I guess is more accurate. Takes awhile if its your first attempt but you save some money over paying a garage to do it.
 
Upper control arms only. and the ball joint... you don't want the mevotech, they're crap. I'd like to choose which balljoint i want to use, as there are huge quality differences.[/url]

I was only quoting uppers as I said in post 10. Mevotech? OK... then go with the raybestos for $111, either will last MANY miles over wore out ones....
 
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If your gona pull the a arms might as well lift it
hu7b.jpg
 
I don't like poly bushings for off road. They don't have the same flex as rubber and give a harsher ride. Granted that might be great for a street car but when rough stuff is concerned give me rubber, even if they do wear out faster. That's of course just my opinion for the sake of open dialog and is up for debate.

you must have not seen any pictures of my truck off roading with poly bushings??

Upper control arms only. and the ball joint... you don't want the mevotech, they're crap. I'd like to choose which balljoint i want to use, as there are huge quality differences.


That is to install energy poly bushings. If you want stock bushings, rockauto sells them and you have to press the old ones out and the new ones in. My local mechanic charged me $20 to do this, took them a few minutes.



Poly lasts longer and is smoother, it's not going to be a massive difference, just a more solid feel on the road.

IMHO the biggest PIA's in changing the bushings, is making sure the adjusting bolts aren't seized (then you have to cut them out) and the torsion bar bolts may also be seized. Everything else is straightforward. When i did mine, i replaced / rebuilt everything. See my build thread here... Southern Ontario Toyota Trucks ? View topic - My 89' 4runner

thats good to know, maybe i should try to press out my old ones off my old arms, refresh them back up and sell them :)
i forgot the price but i think it was like $40 OEM (employee discount price) for a bushing set and i needed like 8 sets. i was already debating on going LT and i was like screw it, take that money and put it to something better lol
 
you must have not seen any pictures of my truck off roading with poly bushings??

I never said poly doesn't work, and I'm sure you have wonderful pictures of your truck perhaps even award winning. What I did say was rubber has more give and a smoother ride because of it. Given the life of a set of new bushings I'll most likely never need to replace them again. For my needs (offroad exploring) rubber is my choice.

:whipping2
 
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