95 V6 performance upgrades
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regularguy412
New member
I agree with Red3. Headers and exhaust prolly the best bang for the buck. It will also help a lot with longevity.
Also, make sure that everything to do with a tuneup is 'right' -- plugs, wires, rotor cap, rotor button, AFM door operating properly, TPS adjusted properly, throttle body cleaned and working smoothly, EGR and PCV working properly, tires to proper inflation for on-road, brakes not dragging.
All the little things add up on a 3.0.
Mike in AR
Also, make sure that everything to do with a tuneup is 'right' -- plugs, wires, rotor cap, rotor button, AFM door operating properly, TPS adjusted properly, throttle body cleaned and working smoothly, EGR and PCV working properly, tires to proper inflation for on-road, brakes not dragging.
All the little things add up on a 3.0.
Mike in AR
A good head gasket with a steel slipper plate would be good, as soon as that gasket goes it starts screwing things up fast. I'd run an injector cleaner through as well and oil sludge stuff. Basically you pour it in drive for half an hour and it sucks all the crap to the oil pan, thens its oil change and voila happier engine
regular guy,
i'm new here but i did search and i still dont know what a AFM door is???
also is there any software and plug set to check(or hopefully adjust) the sensor's like there is for the domestic's.
actually i'm sure there is but does anyone here have any experience with any particular sets, good or bad.
just bought a 94 sr5 and i'd loke to make sure everything is 100%
thanks
numan222
i'm new here but i did search and i still dont know what a AFM door is???
also is there any software and plug set to check(or hopefully adjust) the sensor's like there is for the domestic's.
actually i'm sure there is but does anyone here have any experience with any particular sets, good or bad.
just bought a 94 sr5 and i'd loke to make sure everything is 100%
thanks
numan222
regularguy412
New member
Sorry for all the acronyms. AFM = Air Flow Meter. The AFM is the large device located on top of the air filter element container ( right behind the driver's side headlight in the engine compartment on 3.0 equipped 4Runners). There is an electronic plug attached to it. The way it works is: there is a spring-loaded door inside that opens wider as a larger volume of air is drawn into the engine. The motion of the door is what transmits a signal (via the AFM electronics ) to the ECM (engine control module or the 'computer'). It helps determine how much fuel should be delivered to the engine. ( On the other hand, the O2 (oxygen) sensor in the exhaust pipe is determining the amount of unburned fuel by measuring exhaust by-products. The ECM is constantly balancing these readings, along with many others, to give optimum performance, mileage and driveability. Just make sure the hinge on the AFM door is lubed and working smootly and freely ( no binding). If it's not smooth, it will cause driveability and mileage problems.
The 'computers' on these older (pre-1996) model vehicles are what is known as OBD-I. They are not as sophisticated as the newer OBD-II models. That's why in order to get the diagnosis out of an OBD-I computer, you read the CEL (Check Engine Light) flashes by jumpering the T1 and E1, terminals in the 'Diagnosis' box under the hood by the fuse box. Also for that reason, there is not a 'chip' or way to just plug in a re-programmer and 're-set' the computer. There is a company ( cant remember the name right off ) that can recondition your ECM for more power, but youhave to send the whole thing in to them. The way I understand it,, once it's set,, it's SET. And I think it's pretty expensive -- a few hundred dollars to get this done.
Most have found that it's just better and more economical to make sure everything is working properly,, maybe do headers and new exhaust ,, and let it go at that. The 3.0 was not the greatest performing engine that Toyota ever built. Having said that, I like my 3.Slow and it has served me well. Mine has 183,000 miles on her and still gets over 20 miles per gallon ( highway mileage). Just have to remember, these older 4Runners are HEAVY vehicles. It costs mileage and performance to carry weight.
Mike in AR
The 'computers' on these older (pre-1996) model vehicles are what is known as OBD-I. They are not as sophisticated as the newer OBD-II models. That's why in order to get the diagnosis out of an OBD-I computer, you read the CEL (Check Engine Light) flashes by jumpering the T1 and E1, terminals in the 'Diagnosis' box under the hood by the fuse box. Also for that reason, there is not a 'chip' or way to just plug in a re-programmer and 're-set' the computer. There is a company ( cant remember the name right off ) that can recondition your ECM for more power, but youhave to send the whole thing in to them. The way I understand it,, once it's set,, it's SET. And I think it's pretty expensive -- a few hundred dollars to get this done.
Most have found that it's just better and more economical to make sure everything is working properly,, maybe do headers and new exhaust ,, and let it go at that. The 3.0 was not the greatest performing engine that Toyota ever built. Having said that, I like my 3.Slow and it has served me well. Mine has 183,000 miles on her and still gets over 20 miles per gallon ( highway mileage). Just have to remember, these older 4Runners are HEAVY vehicles. It costs mileage and performance to carry weight.
Mike in AR
mike
thanks for all the info
i owned a 95 back in 98 and loved it!!! but never did anything to it, i pick up my new one this weekend in chicago and with the current price of gas mileage is much more important than performance. do you have a list of code's for the OBD or know where i can get them...this sounds like the older chrysler's with the check engine light, is the sequence the same.....(jump the leads), turn key on,off,on,off,on or do you know the sequence???
looking forward to doing alot more reading here i just found this doing a google search for parts but so far so good
thanks again
numan
thanks for all the info
i owned a 95 back in 98 and loved it!!! but never did anything to it, i pick up my new one this weekend in chicago and with the current price of gas mileage is much more important than performance. do you have a list of code's for the OBD or know where i can get them...this sounds like the older chrysler's with the check engine light, is the sequence the same.....(jump the leads), turn key on,off,on,off,on or do you know the sequence???
looking forward to doing alot more reading here i just found this doing a google search for parts but so far so good
thanks again
numan
regularguy412
New member
Try this link:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
Yes. You do the jumper and read flash sequences. Remember: The codes stored in the ECM remain there until you pull the EFI fuse or disconnect the negative battery termial ( and leave the fuse out or terminal disconnected for about 10 minutes). You may wish to do this when you get your 4Runner, so you can start from scratch. Also, these are Error Codes that the ECM is detecting,, not necessarily 'performance' codes. Finally, mechanical faults won't always show up as a CEL code, or they can even be somewhat distantly related to the CEL code. My fuel pump was going out, and the only 'code' I received from the CEL was an O2 Sensor. I guess that was because the engine was running too lean.
There is also a flash sequence for the automatic transmission ( if it has one ), via the O/D OFF dash light. And I just found out today, there is even a set of codes that can be read for the Cruise Control (if it has that, as well ).
I subscribe to 3 different 2nd Generation 4Runner bulletin boards. LOTS of good info out there.
MIke in AR
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
Yes. You do the jumper and read flash sequences. Remember: The codes stored in the ECM remain there until you pull the EFI fuse or disconnect the negative battery termial ( and leave the fuse out or terminal disconnected for about 10 minutes). You may wish to do this when you get your 4Runner, so you can start from scratch. Also, these are Error Codes that the ECM is detecting,, not necessarily 'performance' codes. Finally, mechanical faults won't always show up as a CEL code, or they can even be somewhat distantly related to the CEL code. My fuel pump was going out, and the only 'code' I received from the CEL was an O2 Sensor. I guess that was because the engine was running too lean.
There is also a flash sequence for the automatic transmission ( if it has one ), via the O/D OFF dash light. And I just found out today, there is even a set of codes that can be read for the Cruise Control (if it has that, as well ).
I subscribe to 3 different 2nd Generation 4Runner bulletin boards. LOTS of good info out there.
MIke in AR
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great information mike
i cant waite to get into this more in depth. in one of your earlier post you said make sure you tps is calibrated properly or something like that isn't it just like off or on in the sensor's or is there somethin that will read vairiables???
also if you dont mind i would love the other sites your a member of if that permitted here i get bored at work alot and do alot of reading
thanks again
numan
i cant waite to get into this more in depth. in one of your earlier post you said make sure you tps is calibrated properly or something like that isn't it just like off or on in the sensor's or is there somethin that will read vairiables???
also if you dont mind i would love the other sites your a member of if that permitted here i get bored at work alot and do alot of reading
thanks again
numan
regularguy412
New member
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is INCREDIBLY important. MANY different engine and transmission management systems look to the throttle position to determine what action should be taken. The TPS takes the place of the old 'vacuum management' that we used to have on vehicles prior to the mid-1980's.
The TPS has about 7 connector pins. It works in a similar fasion to the AFM. At closed throttle, it sends a certain voltage. As the throttle opens, the voltage changes. That's how the transmission knows when to shift, how the ECM knows how much to advance the base engine timing, etc. It even affects the idle circuit.
If you clean your Throttle Body ( the butterfly inside the end of the intake manifold that is attached via a shaft to the accelerator bell crank and the other end to the TPS) DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER. Use a cleaner desigened specifically for throttle bodies. You can damage the electronics ,if you don't.
To check the TPS for proper function, you need a volt/ohm meter. There are certain voltages that the TPS should display depending on what angle the butterfly shaft is turned to ( e.g., wide open, completely closed, or somewhere in between). Here are some links you may find helpful:
http://www.yotatech.com/forumdisplay.php?f=116
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
The last one is the 1993 Factory Service Manual. It will probably work for most of the troubleshooting you need to do, even tho yours is a 1995 model. You can download the PDF's to your computer from that site for easier reference.
Mike in AR
The TPS has about 7 connector pins. It works in a similar fasion to the AFM. At closed throttle, it sends a certain voltage. As the throttle opens, the voltage changes. That's how the transmission knows when to shift, how the ECM knows how much to advance the base engine timing, etc. It even affects the idle circuit.
If you clean your Throttle Body ( the butterfly inside the end of the intake manifold that is attached via a shaft to the accelerator bell crank and the other end to the TPS) DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER. Use a cleaner desigened specifically for throttle bodies. You can damage the electronics ,if you don't.
To check the TPS for proper function, you need a volt/ohm meter. There are certain voltages that the TPS should display depending on what angle the butterfly shaft is turned to ( e.g., wide open, completely closed, or somewhere in between). Here are some links you may find helpful:
http://www.yotatech.com/forumdisplay.php?f=116
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
The last one is the 1993 Factory Service Manual. It will probably work for most of the troubleshooting you need to do, even tho yours is a 1995 model. You can download the PDF's to your computer from that site for easier reference.
Mike in AR
Red3.slow
New member
Some1esle
New member
Let's see
Okay so i was thinking, cold air short ram intake pipe and high flow filter, headers, cat back exhaust, high flow cat, larger spark plug wires, multi electrode spark plugs, synthetic engine oil. This would take care of the basic tune up and some hop up in one shot.Most of these parts can be purchased from ebay,or other sites. try JCWHITNEY for parts. I have been surching high and low for parts for 2gen 4runners. There isn'e a whole lot of aftermarket support for us. Hope this helps.
Okay so i was thinking, cold air short ram intake pipe and high flow filter, headers, cat back exhaust, high flow cat, larger spark plug wires, multi electrode spark plugs, synthetic engine oil. This would take care of the basic tune up and some hop up in one shot.Most of these parts can be purchased from ebay,or other sites. try JCWHITNEY for parts. I have been surching high and low for parts for 2gen 4runners. There isn'e a whole lot of aftermarket support for us. Hope this helps.
bluegrass 4wheel
New member
D.O.A. performance
for those of you trying to get more performance from your toy I would steer clear of D.O.A. performance out of Buckeye Arizona. I got what was supposed to be porting and service on my throttle body. they took my throttle body, with a new Throttle position sensor and gave me a used one after he said he would set up the tps,strike one. There was still shavings in the throttle body from boring it. And the heads, they were supposed to be turnkey had to adjust the valves myself,out of spec.strike two. Now I have to replace a new TPS that i had purchased
six months ago from the dealer. I wont tell you where to go for performance parts or service on toyotas, I would avoid this clown. At least I didn't buy one of their $10000 engines Im only out $150 for the TPS and my time to adjust the valves so far.
for those of you trying to get more performance from your toy I would steer clear of D.O.A. performance out of Buckeye Arizona. I got what was supposed to be porting and service on my throttle body. they took my throttle body, with a new Throttle position sensor and gave me a used one after he said he would set up the tps,strike one. There was still shavings in the throttle body from boring it. And the heads, they were supposed to be turnkey had to adjust the valves myself,out of spec.strike two. Now I have to replace a new TPS that i had purchased
six months ago from the dealer. I wont tell you where to go for performance parts or service on toyotas, I would avoid this clown. At least I didn't buy one of their $10000 engines Im only out $150 for the TPS and my time to adjust the valves so far.
bluegrass 4wheel
New member
the proprietor of d.o.a. told me personally that he would set up the throttle positioning sensor and adjust the valves, these are maintenance issues, issues he was paid to do. At $1275 for porting my heads and $275 for the over bored throttle body plus shipping over $200, I expected a like new product clean and adjusted to spec. Of course I checked his work, the TPS was inoperable and the valves not to spec..thats just my experience
