96 4runner - high miles

[bfett22]

Ok - i have a 96 4runner and am thinking about selling and moving into another, lower mileage t4r but I'm not sure what mine is worth. I have checked kbb of course but the high mileage will undoubtedly scare people (unless it's another t4r nut). It's on brand new 285s with toytec and LC 8 wraps. The truck has been great for me - taken me over and through pretty much everything and has been reliable on long trips but I don't really have the cashflow to fix it if something catastrophic happened to it mechanically. I'm in between here and not sure what to do. Any thoughts? Anyone else have 318k+ on their runners?

Thanks

 

[StreetCreeper]

361,431 miles on mine and I am planning to bring it back from the edge of death. This will include a small suspension lift, front end rebuild most likely and small things like new carpet kit etc...

If the original engine or tranny goes then I think I'll just replace them. Since the truck was given to me, I figure with upgrades and replacements (when needed) I'll be about the same position financially as having purchased another lower milage runner that would still be looking at needing to have suspension/engine/trans replacement or rebuild.


At least this is how I justify putting money I don't really have into a truck with nearly 400 thousand miles :biggrin2:

 

[AZ4Running]

Just keep going with it. You know the rig and how it runs and the history for at least as ling as you have had it. Just fix thing as they fail. No point in going to a new rig that you know nothing about. A compression test, engine oil and trans oil analysis will tell you a lot about the state of things.

 

[bfett22]

361! That's awesome! Thanks for the input, guys. I just get concerned because I drive it nearly every weekend to NY state this time of year to hunt (about 3.5 hrs one way) and would hate to have something happen to it while traveling but I guess that could happen to with any vehicle. In a perfect world, I would add a toyota pickup to the fleet alongside my 1st and 3rd Gen but I'm still working on that with the wife....I will definitely get perform some of the diagnostic tests to get a better idea of how things are functioning. Thanks again.

 

[bfett22]

Update - last weekend while trying to retrieve a deer, I discovered that my 4x4 is not functioning. Heck of a time to figure it out, too. Thankfully I was able to get out. Anyway, I didn't have much time or space to troubleshoot and we kept hunting. The next day I started the 4runner and I got a check engine light - awesome. I plugged it in and got a NSS code. My question is - is the neutral position switch and the 4x4 system related? My initial thought was no but now I'm not sure. I've done quite a bit of research on the 4x4 system but the electronics are beyond my expertise. So far I've discovered that the tcase motor sounds to be working when moved into 4x4 (4wd hi button on my limited) and the front driveshaft locks into place but the drive is not getting to the front wheels. I switched the two vacuum lines at the 4x4 'manifold' (unsure of the exact name) between the ds fender and the engine manifold and that did not work. I looked into replacing the switch on the front differential and that is an option as well. I'm aware there are two switches on the tcase and there are a few relays as well. Again, I have done some research but am still kind of a newb with this stuff. I wish it were a simple system like in my 1st gen. If anyone has some quality photos of the 4x4 solenoids and other vital parts I'll be able to pick my way through it - thanks in advance!

 

[bfett22]

Update - last weekend while trying to retrieve a deer, I discovered that my 4x4 is not functioning. Heck of a time to figure it out, too. Thankfully I was able to get out. Anyway, I didn't have much time or space to troubleshoot and we kept hunting. The next day I started the 4runner and I got a check engine light - awesome. I plugged it in and got a NSS code. My question is - is the neutral position switch and the 4x4 system related? My initial thought was no but now I'm not sure. I've done quite a bit of research on the 4x4 system but the electronics are beyond my expertise. So far I've discovered that the tcase motor sounds to be working when moved into 4x4 (4wd hi button on my limited) and the front driveshaft locks into place but the drive is not getting to the front wheels. I switched the two vacuum lines at the 4x4 'manifold' (unsure of the exact name) between the ds fender and the engine manifold and that did not work. I looked into replacing the switch on the front differential and that is an option as well. I'm aware there are two switches on the tcase and there are a few relays as well. Again, I have done some research but am still kind of a newb with this stuff. I wish it were a simple system like in my 1st gen. If anyone has some quality photos of the 4x4 solenoids and other vital parts I'll be able to pick my way through it - thanks in advance!

 

[TheDurk]

Update - last weekend while trying to retrieve a deer, I discovered that my 4x4 is not functioning. Heck of a time to figure it out, too. Thankfully I was able to get out. Anyway, I didn't have much time or space to troubleshoot and we kept hunting. The next day I started the 4runner and I got a check engine light - awesome. I plugged it in and got a NSS code. My question is - is the neutral position switch and the 4x4 system related? My initial thought was no but now I'm not sure. I've done quite a bit of research on the 4x4 system but the electronics are beyond my expertise. So far I've discovered that the tcase motor sounds to be working when moved into 4x4 (4wd hi button on my limited) and the front driveshaft locks into place but the drive is not getting to the front wheels. I switched the two vacuum lines at the 4x4 'manifold' (unsure of the exact name) between the ds fender and the engine manifold and that did not work. I looked into replacing the switch on the front differential and that is an option as well. I'm aware there are two switches on the tcase and there are a few relays as well. Again, I have done some research but am still kind of a newb with this stuff. I wish it were a simple system like in my 1st gen. If anyone has some quality photos of the 4x4 solenoids and other vital parts I'll be able to pick my way through it - thanks in advance!

The switch hose test should only be done after you have confirmed good vacuum at one of the VSV's (Vacuum Switching Valves) that is not switching to the other VSV when 4x4 is engaged. Otherwise it tells you nothing. This pretty much comes from my standard post which needs to be done in order if you are going to diagnose the problem:

VSV’s/ADD
Don't guess at it, troubleshoot! Start at the twin VSV's (Vacuum Switching Valves) on the driver fender wall. There are two long vacuum hoses that come up from the diff, one goes to each VSV. Check to see that one of the two hose nipples on the VSV’s has vacuum (engine running, 4WD NOT engaged. If no vacuum either side, check the check valve going to the intake manifold and look for loose hoses or a hole in the reservoir. If there is vacuum going to one hose, then put it in 4WD. See if the vacuum switches to the other hose. If it does, and no 4WD, problem is the diff actuator or the line to the diff. If it does not, then just switch the hoses and you should go into 4WD. This confirms diff is okay. (Mark the hoses first so you know which belongs where!)

OK, switch them back. Then use a test light to see if electrical signal from the TC also switches sides of the VSV. If it does not, problem is the TC, the switch on the TC, or the TC actuator, or its wiring back to the button (last two for non-J shift only). If it does, but the vacuum does not, the problem is the VSV itself.

I start troubleshooting at the VSV's because you can figure out where the trouble is without having to climb under the truck. [None of this applies to '01-'02 which have an electric actuator.]

There is no interconnect with the NSS and the ADD system. NSS affects the starting circuit only.

 

[bfett22]

Thanks TheDurk - I will give this a shot and update my progress! Will most likely be Sunday or next week - last hunting trip this weekend. Thanks again

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Those two rusty vacuum switches were my problem.

 

[bfett22]

In the engine bay you mean? Mine are looking grimy

 

[bfett22]

TheDurk - I looked over the vacuum lines - removed them from the vsv and had vacuum - checked the lines to the diff and discovered a small home. Replaced the hoses and BOOM 4X4! Thanks for all of your help!

 

[SilverRidgeRunner1]

Ok - i have a 96 4runner and am thinking about selling and moving into another, lower mileage t4r but I'm not sure what mine is worth. I have checked kbb of course but the high mileage will undoubtedly scare people (unless it's another t4r nut). It's on brand new 285s with toytec and LC 8 wraps. The truck has been great for me - taken me over and through pretty much everything and has been reliable on long trips but I don't really have the cashflow to fix it if something catastrophic happened to it mechanically. I'm in between here and not sure what to do. Any thoughts? Anyone else have 318k+ on their runners?

Thanks

Well seems like we are in the same boat .... Here is what I have ran into... U go to trade it in the price they give u, mine as well keep it.... What happen to me is I have a spread sheet (Bible) with all the service up to date w/ Proof of purchase to 240,000 miles the dealership owner would only give me $2,200 based off several website blah blah... If your providing a fair condition vehicle that isn't ragged out keep it between the 5,500-4,500 range that factory of course. If u have a custom Rig to the teeth with a great appearance I would say u could ask more. The thing is regardless what the website say I would look at your local market look at a Vehicle similar to yours and see what its going for on CL OR EBAY then gauge from there. Trading it in is giving it away unless they wil deal.

 

[bfett22]

Well seems like we are in the same boat .... Here is what I have ran into... U go to trade it in the price they give u, mine as well keep it.... What happen to me is I have a spread sheet (Bible) with all the service up to date w/ Proof of purchase to 240,000 miles the dealership owner would only give me $2,200 based off several website blah blah... If your providing a fair condition vehicle that isn't ragged out keep it between the 5,500-4,500 range that factory of course. If u have a customer Rig to the teeth with a great appearance I would say u could ask more. The thing is regardless what the website say I would look at your local market look at a Vehicle similar to yours and see what its going for on CL OR EBAY then gauge from there. Trading it in is giving it away unless they wil deal.

I've decided that I'm probably going to keep it for the long haul - I only paid $2200 for it and I easily have $2000 into it - lift, two sets of tires etc. With very few problems. I need a pickup and am thinking about a double cab tacoma but I'm not sure yet - i would love to add to my Toyota fleet....we'll see what the wife has to say....