'96 Electrical (Likely Alternator) Issue

[tkc74]

Team,

Been having issues starting the ‘96 V6 3.4L 4Runner. Started couple weeks back while I was driving on the highway when the battery light flickered, a belt started squealing and the front windshield wipers would randomly turn on then back off all around the same time. After this, and every time since then, when I would try to start the car it wouldn’t turn over. Sometimes to get it going it would require moving the terminals around or disconnect and reconnect the battery, but lately I figured that I can keep trying to turn the ignition over and over. Takes anywhere from 3-10 tries but it gets going with no under the hood action required.

I figured because of the battery light it was lose/corroded connections or a bad battery. I bought new connection, cleaned the terminals and also took it into Canadian Tire and had it tested. Battery passed (2.5yrs old) and was charged to 90%. I then re-tried but same issue.

I then figured it was the alternator, I took out the multi meter and tested. 12.7V engine off but was 14.2V with engine on. After turning on everything I could (hi-beams, blower, heater, wipers, interior lights) it dropped down to 12.8V, this is low…..

Must be the alternator, right? Could it be anything else (belts)? I don't see how the alternator faulting could cause all these other symptoms but not electrician. Had the vehicle for 120k km and have never replaced the alternator.

Another aside, my front lights (lows only) no longer work, tested the fuses and they are blown, highs work just fine.

TL;DR:I believe it’s the alternator but have also been wrong in the past, could it be anything else…..looking for confirmation or anyone else .02!

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

Check the connections to/from the alternator and battery inside the fuse box and the primary fuse itself. Could be loose or corroded terminals.

 

[NissanTechJake]

The battery light indicates a low charge rate, your load test confirmed just that. Anything under 14v under load is low, it’s time for an alternator replacement unfortunately.

 

[ambush]

Time for Big 3

I am not sure how much of an overachiever you want to be but I would recommend the big 3 upgrade by Sky High Car audio - 2 or 4 gauge wires for alternator, battery, ground, etc. This REALLY help me during my build I am getting an average 13.0 V while my truck is running (I added an LED voltmeter in my cigarette lighter location). As far as replacement, find an OEM alternator (DENSO) and not a reman. I promise you will not regret it. I hate getting aftermarket parts such as those unless I do a high powered one or something. The longevity is horrible as I used to see while working at Autozone for years watching them come back. You can almost go to a junk yard to save some aggravation and coin! Just my 3 cents .


Skyhigh Audio big 3

 

[hdoggie24]

So recently my factory alternator burned out(saw smoke come from it). I have 240k miles so not bad I guess. But it happened about a month after I installed 2 amplifiers . I'm guessing the stock one can't keep up and fried out. I'm not running a ton of power. 1 amplifier is about 600w and the other about 200w. I'm going to also do the big 3 upgrade as well now since its a good idea. I'm concerned about putting another stock oem alternator in, don't want to burn up another one. I keep reading about adding the 140A CS-144 amplifier in from a Cadillac. But i'd need to likely get one at Autozone. Is this a bad idea? I don't want to spend over 300 bucks on a new alternator either. Any ideas?

 

[MaineRunna]

If your belt was squealing, then yes, definitely check the belt! Slipping belts on Toyotas will cause intermittent loss of power steering and low charge under load, sometimes without squealing. Very possible you need an alternator though.

 

[tkc74]

Maybe Starter?

Bit of added info. When trying to start the car by turning the ignition over and over I would hear a low whining noise coming from the engine bay while the key was fully turned over (would hold key fully turned over for a few seconds...sometimes it would start while holding longer), this would go away when the key was released. This would happen each time I turn the ignition off and back on in an attempt to start the vehicle until it eventually works. What is the likelihood that is could be the starter instead? (There were no rapid fire clicking sounds).