'97 4R problem installing Bilstein rear shocks

[DUK-RNR]

Am I the only one who has a big hassle putting Bilstein 4600(24024518) rear shocks on?
The drivers side has a bracket for the wiring for the locking differential that blocks access. I ended up cutting an access hole in the body from the wheel well to be able to get an allen wrench into the hole in the top of the shaft, and had to bend a 17mm wrench to hold the nut while I turned the shaft(1/8 of a turn at a time). The passenger side wasn't much better. There is no way to get a torque wrench into that space, besides I don't have a torque wrench with a hole in the center to put an allen wrench through to hold the shaft.
Is there something else I should have done? I couldn't think of anything.
I would appreciate any ideas I missed.

 

[UnderFire]

I hold the shock's body with a big ol set of channellock 460's. if you position it right it holds itself tight while you turn inside the springs. No torque necessary, just crank it down with a long handled ratchet, not too tight though. It's still a bear of a job though, no matter how many times you've done it.

 

[DUK-RNR]

Tank you Underfire, rear shocks?

When you mentioned the springs, I wondered if you were talking about the front shocks( I have that pleasure to look forward to). I also had to make an adapter to my air chuck to blow out the depression the top of the shock fits in because it was full of dirt. When I tried to hold the shock body, the shaft wouldn't rotate with the body and I still had to put an Allen wrench into the top of the shaft to keep it from turning.
I finally called Bilstein and they said to tighten the top nut until the grommet started to bulge. That is going to have to substitute for torqueing(sp?) it.

 

[99Runnr]

I spent ~2 hours removing the stock shocks. The KYB body had metal dust shields. Which made it difficult to cut through angling a 4" cut off wheel up there. Once that ***** was over with, it took me ~20 minutes to fully install both sides.

I used Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks. I have an e-locker as well. I knew better then using a nylok nut on them or whatever it comes with. I used a double jamnut with a lock washer. That way you get the threads up through the body, and you can spin it down with your finger. Torque that until the bushing bulges with a nice flexible ratchet and socket. (Fit just fine on my truck without modifying/moving anything at least) Then drop on a lock washer and the top nut. Torque that down and there you have it.

When/if your trying to hold things from spinning, I can only imagine the amount of cursing additionally involved..

 

[DUK-RNR]

Thank you 99Runnr. It never occurred to me to double nut the top, Oh well. I had to use an Allen wrench socket that I swapped out to metric size on an ratchet with movable head, so I could get the right angle, them used the 17mm wrench I bent to hold the nut from turning. Of course, I had turn the ratchet to the left to pull the shock shaft up into the nut. The neighbors know to bring their kids in the house when I'm working on the truck, so they won't learn any new cuss words.
The front shocks were better. I had to put spring compressor back on to get the bolt into bottom of the shock.
Thank you guys for your moral support. It's nice to get new ideas.