98 4Runner clutch suggestion

[Reina]

My 98 3.4L 4Runner started making a vibrating sound when I depress the clutch paddle:happens:. So I think it’s the throw out bearing that is going out.

I’m now looking for a clutch replacement, since I have to take it apart to get to the throw out bearing, might as well do a clutch job while I’m at it.

Any suggestion to what brand of clutch I should get? Any pointers on doing a clutch job on a 3rd gen 4Runner?

 

[Elton H]

these appear to be good ones ?
TACOMA / TUNDRA /T100 /4RUNNER 3.4L ASCO OEM CLUTCH KIT : eBay Motors (item 380219213932 end time Apr-25-10 22:06:47 PDT)

 

[Batsoff]

Here's a similiar option... my understanding is that the AISIN / SECO clutches are an OEM replacement. I just replaced my stock clutch (130k) with this option and so far so good:

AISIN Clutches at Trail Gear

I know Wabfab also carries the same clutch: WabFab Clutches.

... and lastly, Marlin sells a Heavy Duty clutch that a lot of guys use...
Marlin Crawler Clutches

Do a little searching, you'll find reviews of each.

good luck...
-batsoff

 

[Reina]

Here's a similiar option... my understanding is that the AISIN / SECO clutches are an OEM replacement. I just replaced my stock clutch (130k) with this option and so far so good:

AISIN Clutches at Trail Gear

I know Wabfab also carries the same clutch: WabFab Clutches.

... and lastly, Marlin sells a Heavy Duty clutch that a lot of guys use...
Marlin Crawler Clutches

Do a little searching, you'll find reviews of each.

good luck...
-batsoff

Did you replace the clutch yourself? If you did did it take long? Anything tricky?

Also thanks for the all suggestions on this thread, So far I'm leaning towards the 1,200 Marlin crawler clutch. But that is not till I get some money first.:cry2:

 

[Batsoff]

Did you replace the clutch yourself? If you did did it take long? Anything tricky?

Negative Ghostrider... clutch replacement is just outside my reach in technical abilities. I think I could pull it off with an extra hand and a lift, but I didn't have the cajones to try it (even the "professionals" didn't get the RMS seated correctly the 1st time and had to re-do it).

Cost me about $600 to have it replaced.

-batsoff

 

[Reina]

Negative Ghostrider... clutch replacement is just outside my reach in technical abilities. I think I could pull it off with an extra hand and a lift, but I didn't have the cajones to try it (even the "professionals" didn't get the RMS seated correctly the 1st time and had to re-do it).

Cost me about $600 to have it replaced.

-batsoff

Looks like replacing my clutch would be fun lolz. At lest summer break is coming up I think I could afford to have my 4Runner disable for 1 week hahaha. hope that would be enough time for me to do all the work (timing belt, clutch, custom fitting a roof basket, roof lights....etc) that needs to be done within that week.

 

[Reina]

I got the clutch from Marlin crawler clutch and started installation on wednesday, I could of finish the installing the clutch on wednesday but Marlin crawler sent me the wrong pressure plate, and didn't get the correct pressure plate till monday But the total install time is about 6 hours.
The Marlin crawler clutch is amazing, I love the clutch paddle feel, makes me love my 4runner even more. Cant be more happy with the clutch ^_^:thumb3:

 

[sibanez]

I saw that you replaced the clutch in your 4Runner and was wondering if you had any suggestions? I'm about ready to do this on my 97 and am looking for any advice.

Thanks!

 

[YotaZach85]

I saw that you replaced the clutch in your 4Runner and was wondering if you had any suggestions? I'm about ready to do this on my 97 and am looking for any advice.

Thanks!

What are your driving habbits? If you wheel at all I'd reccomend getting the Marlin Crawler clutch kit but if you're just driving on the street then get an eBay kit.

 

[sibanez]

What are your driving habbits? If you wheel at all I'd reccomend getting the Marlin Crawler clutch kit but if you're just driving on the street then get an eBay kit.

I already ordered the clutch (OEM kit), but am looking for tips on the actual install.

Thanks!

 

[Reina]

Are you handy mechanically? You would need a few extensions for your sockets to reach all the bolts on the bell housing, a transmission jack or a transmission attachment for the floor jack, and about 2 hour of your time, or a day if you have never done a single clutch job before. It is pretty straight forward. Unbolt drive shafts, unbolt bell housing, pull back transmission, lower the transmission out of the way, replace clutch and bolt everything back on. Sounds easy but its a B^*ch to line up the transmission and put it back on the engine due to the limited space and a heavy transmission/transfercase to move around to the perfect angle to bolt it back up.

 

[Ron Helmuth]

budget some extra time and $$ to do the rear main seal of the engine while all taken apart.

Also not a bad time to do the transfer case front and rear seals.

 

[Reina]

budget some extra time and $$ to do the rear main seal of the engine while all taken apart.

Also not a bad time to do the transfer case front and rear seals.

Agree:thumb3:Replacing the seals while everything is apart is cheap insurance against future leaks before another clutch replacement is needed ^_~

 

[the great him]

in all my manual trans vehicles i run centerforce dual force clutches and love them, they are rated for way more power than our motors will ever put out(even SC'd) and the peddle feel is the same as a stock clutch. you can beat the living sh!t out of a centerforce and not have to worry about it giving out on you. its all ill ever use

 

[sibanez]

I have helped a friend with a clutch before in a Civic, but I am generally pretty good with working on my trucks. This will be my biggest job yet after the timing belt and water pump (piece of cake), so I'm excited about it, but tips are always helpful.

One suggestion I saw was to leave the the brace attached to the transmission when I drop it order to provide leverage when lining it up. Does this sound like a good plan? Any tips for lining up the transmission?

Also, what will I need to do to replace the rear seal besides pull the flywheel (replacing it anyway).

Thanks,

Steven

Are you handy mechanically? You would need a few extensions for your sockets to reach all the bolts on the bell housing, a transmission jack or a transmission attachment for the floor jack, and about 2 hour of your time, or a day if you have never done a single clutch job before. It is pretty straight forward. Unbolt drive shafts, unbolt bell housing, pull back transmission, lower the transmission out of the way, replace clutch and bolt everything back on. Sounds easy but its a B^*ch to line up the transmission and put it back on the engine due to the limited space and a heavy transmission/transfercase to move around to the perfect angle to bolt it back up.

 

[Reina]

I have helped a friend with a clutch before in a Civic, but I am generally pretty good with working on my trucks. This will be my biggest job yet after the timing belt and water pump (piece of cake), so I'm excited about it, but tips are always helpful.

One suggestion I saw was to leave the the brace attached to the transmission when I drop it order to provide leverage when lining it up. Does this sound like a good plan? Any tips for lining up the transmission?

Also, what will I need to do to replace the rear seal besides pull the flywheel (replacing it anyway).

Thanks,

Steven

Which brace are you talking about? The frame cross bar? When i did the clutch job i have the frame cross bar or brace removed, to allow enough space to remove the transmission. As for lining it up I just have the transmission sitting on a transmission attachment for the floor jack. I eyeball the alignment for the transmission and then push it towards the engine. I just turn the trans slightly to try to line up the splines then push it in.

For the seal just use a pick tool to try to hook the seal and pull it out. Careful not to scratch the machine surface. When putting in the new seal coat the seal with oil and slide it in evenly. Using a socket the size of the seal to push it in evenly would help.

Also if you are replacing the pilot bearing using wet paper is a clean good way of doing it, if you dont already have a pilot bearing puller. YouTube - Pilot Bearing Removal ; Quick, Clean, and easy!

 

[4Running Daily]

Did you follow a guide at all for dropping the tranny?

 

[Jon]

I have been in love with my new 5spd swap. I used the Ebay clutch due to a low budget build. F1 stage 2 is what I ended up with F1 STAGE 2 RACE CLUTCH KIT+OE FLYWHEEL TOYOTA 4RUNNER T100 TACOMA TUNDRA 3.4L V6 | eBay

It seems perfect. Great every day drivability and no complaints offroad. It slipped a couple times but that was in the the break in period in the worst situation I could put it in, climbing slowly (feathering) out of out grass parking lot onto the pavement with a big 6" lip. Now it sticks and I love it. Of course next I'll give the stage 3 a shot if this gives any trouble in the future. But for $253, who can complain?

My buddy has a Marlin in his 2.7 Taco and it feels the same.

Let's be honest, were not putting down a lot of power so a clutch isn't that huge of a factor unless of course you crawl on rocks all day. Then again it is the only thing linking the engine to the trans.

Just like anything else, if you beat it enough, it will die.

 

[SnipedYota]

I know its repetitive But could really use some suggestions!

I have a stock 1990 4runner 2nd gen 3.0L R150F. I run aggressive-ish tires and drive aggressively both on and off. Love manual transmissions for those reasons. I bought my 4r used and it has roughly 150k on it. I don't have a clue what all the lady before me did, didn't do. I used it as my daily before parking due to a mysterious coolant leak (Still haven't found this either). I have run him here and there keeping everything in order. When I moved it last I could barely get the clutch to disengage enough to shift. So I'm going to replace it all, flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, and rear seal while I'm in there. Here's the big deal though I almost pulled the trigger on a center force before coming back to the forums. Now I'm completely torn. I have pretty shot knees so any extra on the clutch may end up bugging especially as a commuter, However, I want something with more grab than I experienced with whatever is in there. I often tow, climb with my rig, and need to be able to count on grab with a higher rev. MC though is out of stock and I need this done yesterday. Please help me with a good kit more bang for the buck and more I can buy from one source is better.

Thank you in advance!

 

[RandyBobandy]

I have a stock 1990 4runner 2nd gen 3.0L R150F. I run aggressive-ish tires and drive aggressively both on and off. Love manual transmissions for those reasons. I bought my 4r used and it has roughly 150k on it. I don't have a clue what all the lady before me did, didn't do. I used it as my daily before parking due to a mysterious coolant leak (Still haven't found this either). I have run him here and there keeping everything in order. When I moved it last I could barely get the clutch to disengage enough to shift. So I'm going to replace it all, flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, and rear seal while I'm in there. Here's the big deal though I almost pulled the trigger on a center force before coming back to the forums. Now I'm completely torn. I have pretty shot knees so any extra on the clutch may end up bugging especially as a commuter, However, I want something with more grab than I experienced with whatever is in there. I often tow, climb with my rig, and need to be able to count on grab with a higher rev. MC though is out of stock and I need this done yesterday. Please help me with a good kit more bang for the buck and more I can buy from one source is better.

Thank you in advance!

This is the 3rd gen section but the aisin clutch is probably the best other than the marlin crawler, you also likely need a master cylinder or slave cylinder if it’s not disengaging enough to change gears