98 Turbo (re)build

jerrydub10

New member
Hey guys, those of you that know me know that I turbo'd the runner awhile back..... well that didn't end up so well since apparently I was completely ignorant about tuning (as in i couldnt figure it out so i gave up and just drove it)
Long story short, I cracked a cylinder and melted a piston.
I now have a replacement motor that I plan on rebuilding and then redoing the turbo RIGHT this time.

This is going to be the build thread to track my progress for everyone to follow along and hopefully I can learn as much from you guys as this will be insightful to you.

Right now the plan is to pick up the LCE rebuild kit with the MLS head gaskets and the upgraded forged pistons with 9.0:1 compression ratio for the replacement motor.

The block is going to a machine shop to get worked over and a 0.020 bore.

Im not sure what to do with the heads except for the 3VZ-fe cams (so any input on what to do to upgrade the heads would be appreciated)

I'm switching the crank over to the forged 3VZ-fe as well since its been proven that they are the same (except for the forged part)

The only upgraded rods I can find are the $1400 chromoly rods from LCE (which just isnt in the budget so again any advice on that would be appreciated)

as for fuel upgrades I have an upgraded fuel pump, and the 7th injector from URD with the AIC-T (going to upgrade to the 800cc thanks to advice from Gadget)
I'm also thinking about doing the Water methanol injection for good measure (thoughts/inputs?)
I definitely need to upgrade the auto tranny I have so I would appreciate some input on a good company that doesnt charge out the ass to drill a couple holes in the valve body.
So far thats all im planning so let me know what you think. (pics of first try aftermath and new build progress to come soon)
 
Register to hide this ad
Definitely will be following that as I plan to turning my truck in the next few years. For the valve body check out the transgo kit. There's a write up in my signature and it's only a fraction of the cost of the ipt upgrade and does the same thing. Pretty straightforward install as well.
 
Definitely will be following that as I plan to turning my truck in the next few years. For the valve body check out the transgo kit. There's a write up in my signature and it's only a fraction of the cost of the ipt upgrade and does the same thing. Pretty straightforward install as well.

Thanks for the info! I'll check it out for sure
 
Can you explain a little on the reasoning for swapping to the 3vz cams? I get the reasoning for swapping to the forged crank but what's the advantage of the cams?

When I eventually get to turboing mine I'm only going to be running moderate boost. 7psi tops and tuning either with a URD 7th or a custom 7th I make myself. Just kinda curious if it's something I should look into or not.

What are you running for all of the components? Specifically the manifolds? I've been debating building my own or modifying a set of cx racing manifolds.
 
Can you explain a little on the reasoning for swapping to the 3vz cams? I get the reasoning for swapping to the forged crank but what's the advantage of the cams?

When I eventually get to turboing mine I'm only going to be running moderate boost. 7psi tops and tuning either with a URD 7th or a custom 7th I make myself. Just kinda curious if it's something I should look into or not.

What are you running for all of the components? Specifically the manifolds? I've been debating building my own or modifying a set of cx racing manifolds.

So for the cams ive learned that they provide a little more horsepower and a higher rpm limit but at the cost of a small amount of torque.
As for the manifolds I'm actually running the cxracing kit. I didnt have to modify it to fit its just kind of a pain getting the crosspipe lined up. I ran the whole cx kit so if you go with that I would replace the bov and Wastegate. Turbo may be chinese but mine held up pretty well. Had it set to 8 psi, the vacuum line to the waste gate came off once and the turbo spooled to 35 psi byt 3500 rpms. That was interesting to say the least.
With 7 psi ive seen other guys on here upgrade their fuel pumps, run colder spark plugs and call it good. But the 7th injector is always a good option.
 
Here is the replacement motor I'm tearing down.
6ee585c6e95a56db847f750a80c322e3.jpg
55cc7fdc2aa96534abe7cb7f4a1c7e28.jpg
ea900a59bad3b6ba360b26ce018eb245.jpg
8139f2e21b2d15a0144d85e1d7977e51.jpg


Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 
Here is the cx manifolds and turbo. Along with my cracked cylinder and melted piston.
e2d55cb4f59ff5f7f0a396461387fa76.jpg
b9b593a251f017f0b12fc6c849c3a8f0.jpg
deaf22c5201645bc21db3d0d3fbc5f22.jpg
ee82ed974c1af2f421994f15935cf767.jpg
815d5514250c7a7e5e56706cac5c4c17.jpg
e9468949e22e77d71278e364f1e226fe.jpg


Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 
Here are some other pics of the upgraded fuel pump, 7th injector, aic with timing calibrator, more damage, and another manifold shot.
a857f651d0f2d40db31d12df2316bd59.jpg
232374cee0b367f63d99707646bc7822.jpg
7cf4042fbf7d4206af742645cd371009.jpg
6b5498226bef1d5e379b9d58b8db68e7.jpg
b1c9dfd3b470dfe7cb9e3941867b9686.jpg


Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
 
For cams, Colt Cams has a 5VZ-FE profile that is dyno tested to gain 22 HP. It was made specifically for boosted engines. It's "drop-in" meaning no need to upgrade valves or springs. It costs $600 + shipping to send your cores in.

We do offer a mild perf. grind that gained 22 HP

INT: 262° .347L

EXH: 264° .330 L

Cost is $600.00 for the set of 4 + $45.00 return shipping.

Customer supplies cam cores

For heads, they are STUPID expensive. I've contacted two engine builders and they both want about $3k for ported heads with oversized valves. No thank you.
 
For cams, Colt Cams has a 5VZ-FE profile that is dyno tested to gain 22 HP. It was made specifically for boosted engines. It's "drop-in" meaning no need to upgrade valves or springs. It costs $600 + shipping to send your cores in.



For heads, they are STUPID expensive. I've contacted two engine builders and they both want about $3k for ported heads with oversized valves. No thank you.

Thank you for the info!! i may have to wait on cams due to budget, but i have a machine shop thats gonna do the bore and work over the head, I havent asked how much to port them yet though. And getting bigger valves would be a nightmare on my budget if its that expensive!
 
OK, so i have the block and the heads at the machine shop, had to get a valve job done, get the heads decked, and the cylinders bored .020 over. magna flux and clean everything. I should be picking it up next week.
I got the rebuild kit with the MLS head gaskets and forged pistons delivered last week.
Once I get the block back it'll be time to paint it, and start assembling it.

In other news, I found a spot on the stock intake that I can mount the 7th injector from URD. it took a bit of drilling but i think its a good spot. I'll upload pics when I get home tomorrow.
 
I highly recommend ditching the URD and going the AEM route! The tuning aspect is so easy and better with AEM than the URD.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but what products do AEM carry that could control the 7th injector and timing?

I had the URD 7th in the past and found the part throttle tuning to be garbage under any boost. AFR’s were off, some hesitations, etc. No boost or WOT tuned fine, but that’s not daily driving conditions.

I upgraded all the injectors to ~300 Lexus injectors (whichever the baby blue ones are, I think sc300??), and put the AEM FIC6 in. Far far happier with the results, and I broke even after selling my URD kit.

URD was an ok kit, for back in the day, but they are milking what seems like early 90’s technology at best. I mean it’s still programmed with an old old db25 serial cable!
 
Forgive my ignorance, but what products do AEM carry that could control the 7th injector and timing?

It can drive the 7th injector but the AEM FI/C 6 is mostly used to drive 6 injectors. There's also programming for an on/off switch for a secondary injector such as a single nozzle for water/meth if it's small enough (hard a tune a large nozzle going from 0% to 100% instantly).

There's lots of piggybacks out there, and everyone likes the one they have. I have the AEM FI/C 6 installed as well and it's good but Toyotas are just hard to tune with a piggyback. O2 sensor skewing is a MUST though.
 
It can drive the 7th injector but the AEM FI/C 6 is mostly used to drive 6 injectors. There's also programming for an on/off switch for a secondary injector such as a single nozzle for water/meth if it's small enough (hard a tune a large nozzle going from 0% to 100% instantly).

There's lots of piggybacks out there, and everyone likes the one they have. I have the AEM FI/C 6 installed as well and it's good but Toyotas are just hard to tune with a piggyback. O2 sensor skewing is a MUST though.

what do you mean by O2 sensor skewing? like a wideband emulator?
 
The FIC modifies the O2 sensor signal so that the factory ECU will “see” 14.7 when the true AFR’s are different. It keeps the factory ECU happy.
 
BTW - it won’t drive just a 7th injector independently. It will, however, drive 6 supplemental injectors that are timed with the factory injectors.

Meaning, it won’t work because only a 7th injector would pulse only with one of the existing injectors - timing would be all wrong.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,079
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top