98 Turbo (re)build

[gamefreakgc]

Thats what I was figuring, do you have a suggested type or brand for the gasket? And it just stuck to the head ports.
And yeah once it started to have the misfire I parked it, already melted one cylinder on the previous engine haha.

OEM is good obviously, but expensive. I've had good experiences also with Fel-pro, since they often add a little extra rubber coating specifically for used engines since there's always imperfections on the mating surfaces once it's used. I went with a non Fel-Pro valve cover this last time since it was cheaper and it started leaking almost immediately...

 

[jerrydub10]

OEM is good obviously, but expensive. I've had good experiences also with Fel-pro, since they often add a little extra rubber coating specifically for used engines since there's always imperfections on the mating surfaces once it's used. I went with a non Fel-Pro valve cover this last time since it was cheaper and it started leaking almost immediately...

I was thinking fel-pro too, so I got those ones. Thanks for the advice!

 

[jerrydub10]

So I got everything put back together this weekend. Runs like a champ now, buuuut I think I may have botched the shift kit. It drives and will go through the gears, but after it shifts from first to second it doesnt seem to want to go back into first. On top of that when I start going it feels like the transmission is fighting itself to get the power down. Like it doesnt feel sluggish it feels like something is holding it back.
Anyone have any ideas as to what that may be?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I responded in the Trans-go kit thread but check your cable if you have one.

 

[jerrydub10]

I responded in the Trans-go kit thread but check your cable if you have one.

I do have one. It felt kinda sticky like the cable wouldnt slide through the housing very well, but it also did that before the kit. Maybe I'll get a new one just to be safe. What exactly does the kickdown cable do?

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[gamefreakgc]

I do have one. It felt kinda sticky like the cable wouldnt slide through the housing very well, but it also did that before the kit. Maybe I'll get a new one just to be safe. What exactly does the kickdown cable do?

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The cable is pretty tight, mine does that do. Take a bit of a tug to get it started.

The kickdown cable is what tells the transmission to downshift under heavy throttle. But there's other side effects that I found out if it's too tight or too loose. But if the tension is fine before and after and the little "knob" in the wire is lined up with the end of the rubber cap on the throttle body, then it's ok.

How does it feel when you are at 100% throttle? Shifts good and crisp or does it hesitate?

Only other thing is to pull out the valve body again and double check your work. Let me look back through my photos and see if I can find a picture, I have the same year transmission as you do.

 

[jerrydub10]

The cable is pretty tight, mine does that do. Take a bit of a tug to get it started.

The kickdown cable is what tells the transmission to downshift under heavy throttle. But there's other side effects that I found out if it's too tight or too loose. But if the tension is fine before and after and the little "knob" in the wire is lined up with the end of the rubber cap on the throttle body, then it's ok.

How does it feel when you are at 100% throttle? Shifts good and crisp or does it hesitate?

Only other thing is to pull out the valve body again and double check your work. Let me look back through my photos and see if I can find a picture, I have the same year transmission as you do.

Thanks for the advice! Its shifts nice and crisp but it still feels sluggish under full throttle, like acceleration was faster before I put in the shift kit even with the trash shifts. I'm gonna have to do something because on my way to work this morning the transmission slipped out of gear and wouldn't go into any gear including reverse. I shut the truck off and waited a few minutes, after that it would go into gear for about 20 seconds and drive and shift fine but then slip out of gear again. Idk what could be causing that besides maybe not enough fluid or the fluid isn't able to stay in the gears? Idk I'm pretty down about it cause my wife totalled our otger car so this is my daily right now. I'm about to just get a new(used) tranny and call it a day.
I would appreciate the photos and all the help I could get.
ALSO! How important is the valve body gasket near the plunger things that you upgrade the springs with the shift kit? If that is not 100% sealed could it cause issues?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for the advice! Its shifts nice and crisp but it still feels sluggish under full throttle, like acceleration was faster before I put in the shift kit even with the trash shifts. I'm gonna have to do something because on my way to work this morning the transmission slipped out of gear and wouldn't go into any gear including reverse. I shut the truck off and waited a few minutes, after that it would go into gear for about 20 seconds and drive and shift fine but then slip out of gear again. Idk what could be causing that besides maybe not enough fluid or the fluid isn't able to stay in the gears? Idk I'm pretty down about it cause my wife totalled our otger car so this is my daily right now. I'm about to just get a new(used) tranny and call it a day.
I would appreciate the photos and all the help I could get.
ALSO! How important is the valve body gasket near the plunger things that you upgrade the springs with the shift kit? If that is not 100% sealed could it cause issues?

The gasket is important, it was rather worn and flattened when I did mine. I would take it out over your next day off, give TransGo a call (they have good customer service) and go over the check ball locations. That's my bet on what went wrong. Did I mention I got it wrong the first time too? Lol.

If that doesn't pan out, you don't need a new transmission, just perhaps a second go on the valve body. Worst case scenario, go to a junk yard and pull a valve body from a 96-98 4Runner and put it in. They last forever (it's just a series of passageways and check balls) so there's little risk there.

I could not find the photos, I think they were on my now deceased phone.

 

[jerrydub10]

The gasket is important, it was rather worn and flattened when I did mine. I would take it out over your next day off, give TransGo a call (they have good customer service) and go over the check ball locations. That's my bet on what went wrong. Did I mention I got it wrong the first time too? Lol.

If that doesn't pan out, you don't need a new transmission, just perhaps a second go on the valve body. Worst case scenario, go to a junk yard and pull a valve body from a 96-98 4Runner and put it in. They last forever (it's just a series of passageways and check balls) so there's little risk there.

I could not find the photos, I think they were on my now deceased phone.

Thanks for all the info! I just got off work, and I just got off work and she wont go into gear at all... Checked the fluid and its a bit high but that wouldnt stop it from going in gear would it?
Also my scanner called out shift solenoid A and E but they cleared and havent come back.

 

[jerrydub10]

Soooo I replaced the solenoid.... Nothing so either the gasket on the valve body is somehow messing everything up or my transmission finally gave up. Picked up a tranny from the junkyard today, car had 462k miles. Hopefully the transmission was replaced at some point, but I'm gonna toss that in while I get the other one rebuilt.

 

[jerrydub10]

Good news!! I bought another transmission, (high mileage) but I took out both valve bodies, check positions of everything and sure enough a couple things were wacky. Fixed it and put it back together and I'm back on the road. Now I just have to work on getting my afr's in the green.

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[jerrydub10]

So here are a couple photos and videos of what I'm experiencing. I dont have my boost gauge hooked up in the videos but I only ever reach about 7 or 8 psi under part throttle, which is what I'm at in the videos. Its about 3/4 of the way down.

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[jerrydub10]

So it wont let me post the video but here is the link to YouTube. If anyone has any recommendations id appreciate it. I'm getting a new fuel filter just in case.

YouTube

YouTube

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[gamefreakgc]

Good news!! I bought another transmission, (high mileage) but I took out both valve bodies, check positions of everything and sure enough a couple things were wacky. Fixed it and put it back together and I'm back on the road. Now I just have to work on getting my afr's in the green.

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Awesome!!! Yeah it's easy to mess up.

As far as your AFR's go, the bottom video of you cruising looks normal. It should rapidly swing between roughly 14.2-15.0, that's the function of a narrowband. It only knows when it goes rich or lean, but doesn't really know how much to adjust. If it starts pegging lean or rich or slows down a lot the sensor is fouled. I've fouled 2 in as many years...

The first video you're going dangerously lean though. I can't remember, can you tune your engine? You desperately need to add more fuel. If you do have a tune, you need a larger fuel pump since it's not actually adding the extra fuel. Fuel filter can't hurt either, can only help. At 7-8 PSI you want to be around 11.8 - 12.0 AFR's and be running at least 91 octane, higher if you have it. At 9-10 PSI I get ping under some loads with 91. Had a chance to get 92 octane in Oregon last week and even that one point was a noticeable difference.

 

[jerrydub10]

Awesome!!! Yeah it's easy to mess up.

As far as your AFR's go, the bottom video of you cruising looks normal. It should rapidly swing between roughly 14.2-15.0, that's the function of a narrowband. It only knows when it goes rich or lean, but doesn't really know how much to adjust. If it starts pegging lean or rich or slows down a lot the sensor is fouled. I've fouled 2 in as many years...

The first video you're going dangerously lean though. I can't remember, can you tune your engine? You desperately need to add more fuel. If you do have a tune, you need a larger fuel pump since it's not actually adding the extra fuel. Fuel filter can't hurt either, can only help. At 7-8 PSI you want to be around 11.8 - 12.0 AFR's and be running at least 91 octane, higher if you have it. At 9-10 PSI I get ping under some loads with 91. Had a chance to get 92 octane in Oregon last week and even that one point was a noticeable difference.

I can tune, but only in open loop since I have the AIC/T piggyback with the 7th injector from URD. I've already upgraded the fuel pump to the 290lph (I think) and all the injectors are brand new. I only have the lean issue when part throttle and above 5psi. I'm wondering whether I have my vacuum lines ran correctly, the fuel regulator behind the intake should only get vacuum and no boost correct?

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[gamefreakgc]

I can tune, but only in open loop since I have the AIC/T piggyback with the 7th injector from URD. I've already upgraded the fuel pump to the 290lph (I think) and all the injectors are brand new. I only have the lean issue when part throttle and above 5psi. I'm wondering whether I have my vacuum lines ran correctly, the fuel regulator behind the intake should only get vacuum and no boost correct?

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You want the fuel pressure regulator to get boost pressure, it'll actually increase the fuel pressure when it does. That might be why it's going so lean.

 

[jerrydub10]

You want the fuel pressure regulator to get boost pressure, it'll actually increase the fuel pressure when it does. That might be why it's going so lean.

That is eye opening! Thanks for the advice!! I had it hooked up to the air inlet pre turbo so it was constantly getting vacuum

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