99' limited restoration project

Got an ignition coil (only had 1 in stock so now i'm running 3 different kinds :()
Got new NGK wires as well.
z2iwTWb.jpg


*******Is the difference here alarming?

00u5De3.jpg

ousUhDL.jpg


Fixed the idle issue.
Now the Flexplate seems to be knocking more/ louder. I will be calling around to shops tomorrow for quotes. I will try to hunt down a factory plate, fluids, and replace the rear main seal while i'm at it.
 
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UPDATE*
Swapped the Diff fluids with Mobile 1 75w-90 gear oil.

Next week I am having the flexplate changed at a shop. I'm proving all my own parts, so they gave me a pretty decent price. I just couldn't find the time to do it myself.

I'd like to order suspension parts as well as tires this week.

Right now I plan on running bilstein 5100 shocks front and rear, paired with OME 2881 coils in the front, and 2906 coils in the rear.
I also plan to drop the diff 1".

Do I need new Upper Control Arms for this setup?
 
I don't mean to qweef up your plans, but I have never heard of a flexplate going bad. You can check the bolts from the torque converter to the flexplate without taking anythign apart. there is an access cover you can pull , and you can see the flexplate to torque converter bolts. You have to manually turn the engine to access each one.

Have you done any tests to confirm that it is not rod knock? I would suggest an oil analysis , its $40 well spent.
 
audiness said:
I don't mean to qweef up your plans, but I have never heard of a flexplate going bad. You can check the bolts from the torque converter to the flexplate without taking anythign apart. there is an access cover you can pull , and you can see the flexplate to torque converter bolts. You have to manually turn the engine to access each one.

Have you done any tests to confirm that it is not rod knock? I would suggest an oil analysis , its $40 well spent.
Click to expand...

I haven't done an oil analysis YET, but it is something I would like to do after this oil gets a few miles on it.

Rod knock was suspected, and still on my mind, but based on the symptoms I believe it can be ruled out for now.

As for the flex plate failure, it seems to be the weak point in the drive train. When something else is failing/ has failed, such as TC bolts, harmonic balancer, an over heating engine, etc, the flex plate seems to take the blow.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/203340-flexplate-replacement-psa.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/1997-4runner-3-4-auto-flex-plate-nightmares-250972/
 
Well I just got my 4Runner back, and it was indeed a cracked flexplate. $525 + $300 for parts. (I provided oem bolts, plate, and rear main seal)
I'll post a picture of it when I get home from work, but it looks like someone drilled 1/4" dia. holes on the outside rim (6 little bores). Sure enough that is the same side that cracked...
Again, pics will be up tonight.
 
So this is how the 4Runner sits as of now..
2tiHvm7.jpg




Here is my brother's 4Runner to show the tires I ordered today...
G2B3nZA.jpg




Here is the cracked flexplate: ( Going to make it a garage clock )
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Another: *Look at the holes drilled on the edge. I assume someone tried to "balance" it... I assume this is why it cracked.
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Just to show my fuel economy... 200 miles on half a tank.
MFUzFFC.jpg
 
Lamer said:
highway miles? cause dam! I think I get that on a full tank in the city
Click to expand...

Yes, this was 90% highway, and 10% downtown traffic. It's bone stock, and I drive conservatively. Usually i'll get 350 miles on a tank avg.
I run 87 octane NO ETHANOL.
 
I barely get 200 mikes per tank, color me jealous. A little bit of reading here suggests I need to replace an upstream O2 sensor, even though I'm throwing no codes. Your rig looks good, a friend in highschool had a brand new silver limited like yours...good times in that thing are why I own a 3rd gen today!

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
 
Jetcycles said:
I barely get 200 mikes per tank, color me jealous. A little bit of reading here suggests I need to replace an upstream O2 sensor, even though I'm throwing no codes. Your rig looks good, a friend in highschool had a brand new silver limited like yours...good times in that thing are why I own a 3rd gen today!

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thank you!
It's been the car I wanted for years, but my reliable 09 legacy got 30 mpg, and never let me down, so I couldn't justify selling it.
Only recently when I started commuting in stop and go traffic, I grew tired of the 5 speed manual.
I was worried i'd loose half my mileage, but i'm pleasantly surprised with my average of 21-23 mpg.
My brother just replaced his o2 sensor and immediately noticed a HUGE improvement in performance & fuel economy.

Stuff like spark plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, o2 sensor and even alignment make a big difference in fuel economy when they need replacing.
 
audiness said:
I don't mean to qweef up your plans, but I have never heard of a flexplate going bad. You can check the bolts from the torque converter to the flexplate without taking anythign apart. there is an access cover you can pull , and you can see the flexplate to torque converter bolts. You have to manually turn the engine to access each one.

Have you done any tests to confirm that it is not rod knock? I would suggest an oil analysis , its $40 well spent.
Click to expand...

Where did you get your oil analyzed?
I'd like to do it soon

Hope you're taking refuge inland with the storm approaching! Greenville is slammed full of people right now. Best of luck
 
I've had a clunk in the front end for a while now, and I was considering buying new everything.

I've been pricing Control Arms, Ball Joints, Bushings all around, Shocks, Coils, ETC...

While I was filling up I figured i'd peek just for fun, and found this on the driver side (not the side making noise, but I do see the ball joint leaking)

1K8f2fZ.jpg
[/IMG]

And this on the passenger side (Clunking side, and where the problem is visible)

5gOJa0Q.jpg
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Notice the difference?
 
Went to the junkyard, and found a few goodies.


Not pictured is acigarette lighter, owners manual, and door trim.


Just Because.....

Previous owner spilled coffee...


Better.








 
Finally broke down and bought some suspension parts.

From Wheelers I got:

-Front and Rear Coil Springs (2881 & 2906)
-OME 90004 NitroCharger Sport Front Struts
-OME NitroCharger Sport Rear Shocks (60028)
-OME 95PF5 Front Trim Packer
-OME 80PF10 Rear Trim Packer
-SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms
-Steering Rack Bushing Kit

Toyo open country A/T 2's 265/75-R16 tires are waiting in the garage as well as OEM brake parts.

On my way home today i'll be getting sway bar bushings.

Next I need to order (2) LCA/ Ball joints & tie rods.
Any suggestions? (I want to go OEM)
 
I got around to changing the front brake pads, as well as bled the two front calipers.

iG3cfGr.jpg
[/IMG]

I also swapped the sway bar end links. They really needed to be replaced.

9QBnFnW.jpg
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Installed

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Cost $40 for both links at NAPA, and about an hour to do the job, including putting tools back..
 
wettRunner said:
Well I just got my 4Runner back, and it was indeed a cracked flexplate. $525 + $300 for parts. (I provided oem bolts, plate, and rear main seal)
I'll post a picture of it when I get home from work, but it looks like someone drilled 1/4" dia. holes on the outside rim (6 little bores). Sure enough that is the same side that cracked...
Again, pics will be up tonight.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I just posted the Q on Youtube, you can ignore it now.

Interesting the dealer wants $1,100-$1,400 for this kind of job
 
wettRunner said:
Finally broke down and bought some suspension parts.

Next I need to order (2) LCA/ Ball joints & tie rods.
Any suggestions? (I want to go OEM)
Click to expand...

OEM all the way for LBJ, I got mine on Amazon....paid a little more to get both at the same time (Prime), if you shop around you can get them slightly cheaper maybe bundled as a pair.

I paid $125 and $117..I think I saw somewhere was doing $225 for the pair.

I did OEM for the uppers too, both mine were in exact same shape or worse than your leaking one.

I grabbed Inner/Outer Tie Rods - Sankei 555, they don't look identical to OEM but very good quality. I ended up not replacing the Inners, they were in OK condition but the boots on the outers were leaking.
 
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