'99 needs repairs... What's most important?

modelstudent101

New member
Took my 4Runner to the dealership today to get the transmission properly flushed (190, decent). Was going to take her camping this weekend and do some light trails, so had them service the transfer case as well (130, not happy but short on time). I negotiated down from 400 (240 quoted flush and 160 quoted t-case service). They took a look, it had never been to the dealership before. They told me quite a few things need fixing. I'm not made of money and will be doing most, if not all, repairs myself. What needs to be tackled first?

'99 4Runner LTD 4x4 e-Lockers
Water Pump, Rad (KOYO), Timing Belts changed when I bought it
Replaced Brake Master Cylinder about 500 miles ago, along with rear shoes and rear axle seals

What they said needs to be done
Replace:
Thermostat (Sticking) & Radiator Hoses/Clamps (non-oem and leaking, which I was aware of);
Valve Cover Gaskets (minor leaking, also already suspected);
Spark Plugs/Wires;
Air Filter;
LBJ (leaking grease, gonna go with Taco LBJ);
Rack & Pinion (no problems, they said it's wet, suggesting leakage

They also suggest I service the EFI, lots of carbon buildup.

I also plan on changing my suspension soon, lots of rear sag and will use it as an opportunity to lift the truck.

Air filter and spark plugs are easy. What needs to be done first?

I'm thinking: hoses/thermostat, then valve cover, then LBJ, then rack & pinion. Any ideas/suggestions/thoughts? I told them to just give me a list after they quoted me 550 for just the thermostat and hose replacement.

Thanks hombres. Hoping some more knowledgable folks can steer me right.
 
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Took my 4Runner to the dealership today to get the transmission properly flushed (190, decent). Was going to take her camping this weekend and do some light trails, so had them service the transfer case as well (130, not happy but short on time). I negotiated down from 400 (240 quoted flush and 160 quoted t-case service). They took a look, it had never been to the dealership before. They told me quite a few things need fixing. I'm not made of money and will be doing most, if not all, repairs myself. What needs to be tackled first?

'99 4Runner LTD 4x4 e-Lockers
Water Pump, Rad (KOYO), Timing Belts changed when I bought it
Replaced Brake Master Cylinder about 500 miles ago, along with rear shoes and rear axle seals

What they said needs to be done
Replace:
Thermostat (Sticking) & Radiator Hoses/Clamps (non-oem and leaking, which I was aware of);
Valve Cover Gaskets (minor leaking, also already suspected);
Spark Plugs/Wires;
Air Filter;
LBJ (leaking grease, gonna go with Taco LBJ);
Rack & Pinion (no problems, they said it's wet, suggesting leakage

They also suggest I service the EFI, lots of carbon buildup.

I also plan on changing my suspension soon, lots of rear sag and will use it as an opportunity to lift the truck.

Air filter and spark plugs are easy. What needs to be done first?

I'm thinking: hoses/thermostat, then valve cover, then LBJ, then rack & pinion. Any ideas/suggestions/thoughts? I told them to just give me a list after they quoted me 550 for just the thermostat and hose replacement.

Thanks hombres. Hoping some more knowledgable folks can steer me right.

I'm thinking hoses and thermostat first as well. BTW, do not install Tacoma ball joints. You aren't gaining any strength and it causes interference of other parts.
 
I was going to install the Tacoma LBJ's and tie rods because I was planning on lifting it, but didn't realize it would cause interference. I've got some rust issues so it's gonna be a hassle to get those off.

If I add coolant to the reservoir, do I need to burp the radiator? It got pretty low, I'm not having overheating issues though. I've also seen a lot of different thoughts on the overflow reservoir level when it's cold. Should it be on the low level or the high?

Thanks for the input guys!

Edit: I live in LA, so stop and start/slow speeds is an issue. That's the major reason I was concerned with the thermostat.
 
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You should find a good independent TOYOTA mechanic in the LA area that is not the dealer. Try to find a shop that always uses OEM parts.

BTW, in particular, the plugs, wires, TSTAT, W-pump, LBJs should all be OEM when replaced.
 
You could do ALL of what they recommended in about 4 hours, while high on mescalin, blindfolded, and caught in a blizzard. Shoot me a PM if you get stuck and need help!
 
I would focus on the LBJ first unless you're incredibly an incredibly low mileage. If either one fails it will be the most expensive thing to have repaired i.e. Body damage and potential damage to all other suspension components. Not to mention having to get it towed, there's no just "limping home" with a failed LBJ. Like [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] said, they're all relatively easy tasks to complete yourself. Good luck!
 
As mentioned, LBJ's are top priority, that's a very catastrophic failure. They're not underspecced like on some trucks, but letting them go too long is not a good idea.

For the leaking valve covers, you might try *gently* tightening the nuts holding them on. They were lightly leaking on my '99 (200K miles) and based on some posts here and elsewhere tried the nuts. They were not even finger tight. I'm assuming something shrank over time, not that they loosened, but either way, gently snugged them up and the leaks stopped completely. Worst case you waste 10 minutes of time and need to replace the gasket anyhow.
 
I would focus on the LBJ first unless you're incredibly an incredibly low mileage. If either one fails it will be the most expensive thing to have repaired i.e. Body damage and potential damage to all other suspension components. Not to mention having to get it towed, there's no just "limping home" with a failed LBJ. Like [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] said, they're all relatively easy tasks to complete yourself. Good luck!
Not only expensive, but a potential serious or fatal accident. Probably a reason Toyota did a recall in '05 in which mines were replaced.
 
Also, don't go aftermaket on LBJ's. Spend the extra money and get OEM. Some types of aftermaket replacements have failed in fairly short order, sometimes in ways which preclude any sort of installation error (i.e. the ball pops out of the socket).
 

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