A/C repair was ridiculously expensive

preacher35

New member
So, after weeks of searching for a leak in my system and four different mechanics later, we finally found the elusive leak in my A/C system. Turns out, the evaporator was the culprit. Unfortunately, it is located on the cabin-side of the fire wall, deep down behind the dash. Normally, I would do this kind of repair myself, but with being consumed by work, I had a local mechanic do the job. In total, it cost me $1,100.00 in parts and labor which makes this the most expensive repair to date on my T4R w/95k miles! If the mechanic had actually charged me for ALL of the time he put into it, it would have been well over $1,400.00 for deal. I never in my wildest dreams, would have ever thought that an A/C repair would cost more than the cost of a new compressor. Well, no Hawaii for me, this year.
 
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This is the new norm really... with how cramped, complicated, and computerized things are these days, you bare bones crap mobile will cost as much to fix as the luxury sedan. *shrugs* worst part? I wish I got more than a small fraction of the labor we charge you guys... :(
 
Everyone complains about the price of the repair but the problem is everything needs to be removed from the truck. Most don't understand how much comes a part.
Its a lot of work to get it from the 1st picture to the second with out any rattles or parts left over.

This was an evaporator repair on a 2006 4runner. Crappy part is I get paid only 4 hours for the entire job.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=89427&stc=1&d=1369291664
 

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Hey Blackworksinc and Mudman, I'm not belittling the mechanic or what they charged by any stretch. Rather, I'm complaining that the A/C repair required so much gutting of the vehicle. I paid my guy for 8 hours of labor but I could tell that even he was disgusted with how long it took to do the job. I suppose that the evaporator is not something that normally pops a leak or we would be hearing all sorts of complaints on this forum, just like mine but still... I mean, this isn't like a transmission that went out or anything.
 
BTW, Mudman, that's exactly what mine looked like the day before yesterday. I nearly crapped my pants when I saw it all laid out like that. Luckily, I had Weathertech digital liners which protected my brand new carpet (which I just installed a month prior) from all of the dirty tools and parts. Fortunately, my mechanic was extremely meticulous when putting it all back together and thus, no hiccups..... so far.
 
That's Jap engineering at it's best. Sort of like how you literally have to disassemble the top end of the engine to change the starter. I guess the engineers don't care because they know they'll never have to actually work on these trucks.
 
Hey Blackworksinc and Mudman, I'm not belittling the mechanic or what they charged by any stretch.

I didn't mean for it to sound like that. People complain about the cost of this repair and I can understand because 10 years ago you could remove the glovebox and remove the evaporator in about 20 minutes. Now you tell people the entire car gets taken apart and they don't believe it.

It is the stupidest design ever. While this does not fail on the 4runner often it happens way too much on all the models. Every year they make it harder and harder to get to and put but back to together. The evaporator box itself is a huge puzzle where everything has to line but perfect or the blend doors and modes will not be right.
 
Yeah, evaporators are hard to get to. My dad was quoted over $2k on his E46 BMW, so I took it upon myself and fixed it over a weekend. What a job!

That's Jap engineering at it's best. Sort of like how you literally have to disassemble the top end of the engine to change the starter. I guess the engineers don't care because they know they'll never have to actually work on these trucks.

I think pretty much all evaporators are in the same location...
 

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Mercedes Benz guys joke that you're buying an air conditioner with a car built around it. Not far from the truth with most designs nowadays.
 
Mercedes Benz guys joke that you're buying an air conditioner with a car built around it. Not far from the truth with most designs nowadays.

Agreed.
Our 1996 Explorer had to have the dash out when the plenum was replaced to cure the blend door problem all the Explorers develop. It was about 5 years old at the time so I had my mechanic replace the heater core while he was in there and anything else he thought could be a failure point as it was a 9 hour job to pull/replace.
Until they invent a TARDIS and while they keep throwing more and more into the vehicles replacing hidden parts is only going to get worse.
 
Mercedes Benz guys joke that you're buying an air conditioner with a car built around it. Not far from the truth with most designs nowadays.

One of my co workers had the EGR valve plug on his Ford diesel. The whole cab was removed to repair the damage...$3800 repair...crazy with all this hi-tech stuff! Definitely a sign of the times.
 
had the same problem on my old grand cherokee, blend doors went and the whole dash, evap case and column has to come out. FOR A STUPID PIECE OF PLASTIC THAT IS ABOUT 4" LONG!!!!. dealer says it was an 8hr job and about $1400. i did it myself in 5hrs and the part was 45.00. i changed everything while i was in there, did not want to do it again.
 
Hehe... Chryslers are crap, one of the biggest issues aside from over all craptasticness is the blend air doors going out in Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep trucks and Exploders and Expeditions are notorious for their HVAc issues.

Don't worry you didn't offend me. My point was that its changed from the old days, labor and parts are far more expensive (than they should be in my honest opinion...) even on the cheapo cars you buy and we're not talking about a 2013 Toyota Yaris, but like a 2004 Base Model Corolla will cost you an arm an a leg if anything computerized or mechanically significant goes out. :O
 
So, after weeks of searching for a leak in my system and four different mechanics later, we finally found the elusive leak in my A/C system. Turns out, the evaporator was the culprit... it would have been well over $1,400.00 for deal.

Timely thread.

I had to top up my system last year and thought that's not bad for 8 years compared to some of my previous vehicles. This spring it was cooling OK at first but now it's low again. Right now it's nearly empty and not cooling (only 5 psi on the low side) so the leak has progressed. I went looking for the obvious "wet spot" at the fittings and joints last year and now but saw nothing abnormal.

What year is your truck? Why was this situation so difficult to diagnose? How did they find it? Can you describe where the leak was in the evap (a fin, tube, major joint)? I'm not looking forward to going through what you just did. I'd be very disappointed in Toyota and may just trade it if I have to go this route.

I wouldn't mind some more info before I break down and take it to a shop for a sniffer test.
 
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Why was this situation so difficult to diagnose? How did they find it? Can you describe where the leak was in the evap (a fin, tube, major joint)?

You can't see the evaporator so many people miss it as a source of the problem.

There are several ways I go about checking A/C leaks. The first thing is I check for oily dirt near the condenser and any connections. The condenser usually gets beat up and rock puts a small hole in it. The oil in the freon will attract dirt if its a decent leak. This is usually just a quick check that doesn't cost the customer freon or anything.

Make sure you check all the fittings and the A/C compressor itself since it can leak at the seal near the pulley and the fitting on the back of the compressor.

Adding dye is very helpful to find the small leaks but that requires a UV light to light up the dye.

If the evaporator is leaking it is very difficult to be certain this is the cause if its a slow leak. I have had some that leak so bad that I can smell the freon coming out of the vents after I recharge. Some will have the dye leak out the drain tube for the evaporator box. I have used a bore scope to look into the box and see the evaporator.

The evaporator usually leaks from the lower corner or the fins.
 
You can't see the evaporator so many people miss it as a source of the problem.
....

If the evaporator is leaking it is very difficult to be certain this is the cause if its a slow leak.

On my dad's BMW, we decided to change the evaporator simply because everything else was tested and determined to function properly. You have no idea how suspenseful the situation was while we waited for the mechanic to refill the AC. Luckily, we made the right decision.
 

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