A few questions

D

Dues Ex Machina

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Hello all,
So first of all I'm a new member and this is my first Toyota 4runner.
It's a 93 5speed with 4wd.
The questions I have about it is I have no idea what kind of lift or suspension is on it. So if anyone could help me figure that out, that'd be great! Thanks guys!
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-1.5in Balljoint spacers up front.
-Procomp shocks, possibly.
-Unknown rear coils.
-Airlift airbags, or the like inside the rear coils.

Looks like a decent homebrew setup.
 
Hmm ok
The airbags are punctured btw.
Should I look into replacing or?
Also, at high speeds it feels slightly unstable. It's not horrible but I do get a wobble on the freeway over imperfections in the road. Any ideas?
 
Jack up front end. Check for integrity... balljoints, idler arm and it's bushings etc. You could also have the balance checked on your wheels... There a many possibilities.

I wouldn't worry about the airbags unless you tow, or haul a lot of crap.
 
Cool, thanks.
Also, looks like I'm leaking power steering fluid -_- anyway, thanks for the info.
So I don't want to go straight to more mods. Is there any common things that I should make sure is up to par on this thing? Aside from basic engine oil change, spark plugs, etc?
 
Dinardy said:
-1.5in Balljoint spacers up front. Stacked on a 4" drop bracket.
-Procomp shocks, possibly.
-Unknown rear coils.
-Airlift airbags, or the like inside the rear coils.

Looks like a sketchy homebrew setup.
Click to expand...

Fixed.

Get the air bags outta there. Looks like your front shocks are hitting the bumpstops that never got extended.
 
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Dues Ex Machina said:
Cool, thanks.
Also, looks like I'm leaking power steering fluid -_- anyway, thanks for the info.
So I don't want to go straight to more mods. Is there any common things that I should make sure is up to par on this thing? Aside from basic engine oil change, spark plugs, etc?
Click to expand...


Fix what you know needs fixing. I usually check and replace all oils when I buy a new vehicle. Inspecting the belts, air filter and timing belt would be a good start. My power steering pump leaks... Check the back of the pump, that's where mine is leaking from, there is a gasket kit available from Toyota (main seal?). Our trucks use ATF vs power steering fluid. ATF is a slightly thicker hydraulic fluid most of the time darker in color (mine was red vs orangish PSF). My PO was using power steering fluid... I suspect this started my leak.
 
Dues Ex Machina said:
Hmm ok
The airbags are punctured btw.
Should I look into replacing or?
Also, at high speeds it feels slightly unstable. It's not horrible but I do get a wobble on the freeway over imperfections in the road. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Could be lots of things. Start by getting it aligned and go from there.

That panhard drop looks wonky, is that normal? It looks like it could pivot where it's bolted to the old panhard mount location, which makes it kinda useless. I think that should be rigidly attached to the frame, either welded or bolted in two locations.
 
Panhard drop is normal, but is looks like this one needs to be extended further. Thats probably a big part of his wobble issue.

Id pull the BJ spacer off there and lower the rear down. Looks like hes running 35s? So just the straight 4" drop bracket should be plenty.

Looks like both sway bars have been pulled? Front you wont miss but the rear one should be put back. Along with some bumps stops and limiting straps.
 
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I see, thanks for the input guys. So far I've done basic maintenance: oil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, power steering is topped off with atf (that's what was on there), still has Toyota red coolant.
Next steps are finding rear sway bar as suggested and fixing the power steering leak (coming from steering box) and gear oil leak from rear diff. Looks to be from where the drive shaft connects to diff. So I'm assuming pinion seal?
 
Ok will do.
Any place where there are write ups for pinion seal replacement? Or write up for 2nd gens in general?
I also noticed that when I'm stopping and throw it in neutral the rpms shoot to 1500 or so until I give it a quick step on the gas, it'll go back down to normal idle. Usually doesn't happen city driving, it's more of a after driving on the freeway for a while and then getting off type of thing. Don't think throttle cable is sticking, pedal feels fine. I'll probably start with tps but any other sensor I should check that may do that?
 
There's a right way and a quick way to do the pinion seal. What you SHOULD do is pull the third and replace the crush spacer (preferably with a solid spacer) while replacing the seal, but that means resetting pinion depth, which requires special training and tools. Because nobody has those special training and tools and nobody wants to pay a guy who does, what most guys do is match-mark the pinion nut, then unbolt it and count the turns as you spin it off. Replace the seal, spin the nut back on (use locktite) the exact number of turns until the matchmarks line up, then give it maybe another 1/8th of a turn.

That is not the "right" way to do it. I am not suggesting you do it that way. But if you don't have the stomach to drop the 3rd and pay a guy $200 or so to replace that seal for you, then that's how you get it done. Just be aware that if you get it wrong you could affect your pinion depth, and if your depth is wrong you'll have too much or too little lash between ring and pinion and you could burn up your diff.
 
I see. Tps seems to be within spec, no obvious vaccuum leaks and the throttle cable does not feel like its sticking, not even the slightest. I'll double check tps and vaccum hoses.
It does not do it in the drive way in neutral as far as I've seen
 
I don't know how this thread ended up in my search for autotrans search:noidea:... but i thought id throw some info in about those brackets on the back axle. those brackets on the back axle are 4crawler hard wear. the first bracket on the left side of the pan hard bar(side attached to the axle) that is held by 2 bolts to the rear axle is a Coil Spring type LSPV(Load Sensing Prop Valve) bracket by 4crawler: (towards middle of page)
4Crawler Offroad - Custom Leaf Spring Shackles

yours looks to be pretty long, 3in or so?, i have a 1inch on my 1.5 in lift

and the bracket on the body side of the pan hard. is a pan hard drop bracket also by 4crawler. that looks to be the standard 4inch bracket that i have as well, though for a truly level pan hard bar you may want but don't really need a longer one. the more level that bar is the more stable the rear of the truck will feel IMO. that bracket eliminates the lateral motion of the rear axle that you feel as the suspension cycles, this is most apparent when you are going over washboards at speed, rear axle will move out past the body on the driver side and back in as the axle moves up and down, instead of just up and down with a level or properly adjusted pan hard bar.

4Crawler: (bottom 3rd of page)
Toyota 2nd Gen 4Runner Coil Spring Spacers and Panhard Drop Bracket


the length of these brackets is all relevant to how much the rear is lifted
:plane:
 
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