A few questions

3RDGENGuy

3RDGENGuy

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So my truck likes to pull to the right when braking hard on un even terrain. I was told the calipers were bad based on assumption and research. I replaced the rotors pads and got OEM used calipers. Well it still pulls to the right when braking hard. Did I just buy another bad caliper ? Haha. I noticed the inner cv axle boot is torn. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it. I also have another question about the horn and cruise control. I replaced the clockspring thinking that was the culprit. The horn worked for a little bit and than stopped working and blew a fuse. The PO installed reed horns so my guess is a bad ground?? I’m stumped :(
280k 4x4


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What is the condition of the rubber hose and metal lines?
My tundra pulls under braking even after new calipers etc, I have a known kinked hard line though that was supposed to be replaced but is going to require lots of soaking and time I didn't have at the moment.
 
Bleed brakes

If it brakes OK under light to medium stops yet not on hard stops, I'd suspect some air in the system, try bleeding all lines before anything else.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:
 
You mentioned nothing about the rear brakes. Uneven braking in the rear can make your rig pull. Jack up the rear end of your rig, pull off the left rear tire and then remove the drum. If a rig pulls to the right and the rear brakes are the cause, it will be a problem with the left rear not grabbing as effectively as the right rear. The reason why I know this is it happened to me. It's how I figured out I had a leaking rear axle seal. My brake shoes were coated and gear oil and not grabbing well.
 
Worn lower control arm bushings can also cause a pull during braking. Have someone brake hard from about 5 mph while you watch each front tire from outside the vehicle to see if it changes in relation to the body.
 
No I haven’t had the best weather but was gonna tackle the brake hoses first than check the rear.


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3RDGENGuy said:
Front Brake hoses didn’t fix it. Bled them 3 times. Gonna take it to a Toyota specialist


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Before you do that pull the rear drums and at least make sure they are adjusted properly, often the self adjusting system doesn’t work or will only work on one side and can cause uneven rear breaking. That will also give you a chance to check for evidence of gear oil in the rear brakes like Tim suggested
 
With this kind of mileage you should absolutely inspect the lower control arm bushings. Depending on the last time they were replaced(dealer probably only does the whole arm to a pretty penny) these things are probably pretty worn. Worth inspecting all load bearing bushings, these are a cheap fix if youre doing your own work.

This assuming all your standard steering components are otherwise in good shape
 
Hey guys. So I rotated the tires and cleaned the rear brakes. No signs of gear oil on the pads I didn’t adjust them because my e brake clicks about 7-8 times didn’t think it was ideal. The drums look fine no gouges. I am braking downhill and I get a severe vibration in the back. Happens at highway speeds when slowing down. It happened before all this btw. Any help would be great!
Thanks have a good weekend!


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Last edited:
Also does a front bent sway bar front end link affect anything? I noticed the right front one is bent


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Do you get the same vibration slowing down just with the ebrake? It can't be the rear brakes if you don't get the same vibration slowing down.
 
3RDGENGuy said:
Hey guys. So I rotated the tires and cleaned the rear brakes. No signs of gear oil on the pads I didn’t adjust them because my e brake clicks about 7-8 times didn’t think it was ideal. The drums look fine no gouges. I am braking downhill and I get a severe vibration in the back. Happens at highway speeds when slowing down. It happened before all this btw. Any help would be great!
Thanks have a good weekend!


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Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or the body (your chair)? If it's felt in the steering wheel it's the fronts, probably has pad print on it or brake residue buildup.

If you are feeling it in the body of the vehicle the rear drums need a good looking at. When the drum brakes are replaced the springs are also supposed to be changed, they might have been re-used. You might have to turn the drums too, any warping is hard to see by just looking at them.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or the body (your chair)? If it's felt in the steering wheel it's the fronts, probably has pad print on it or brake residue buildup.

If you are feeling it in the body of the vehicle the rear drums need a good looking at. When the drum brakes are replaced the springs are also supposed to be changed, they might have been re-used. You might have to turn the drums too, any warping is hard to see by just looking at them.
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It’s definitely in the chair and more rear body the back end shakes. Very annoying! I will look into the replacing the drum springs and turn the drums.


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3RDGENGuy said:
It’s definitely in the chair and more rear body the back end shakes. Very annoying! I will look into the replacing the drum springs and turn the drums.


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Before spending money on parts though, take a look at your driveshaft too. Worth ruling that out with some grease since that's cheap/free.
 
I’m starting to think the front rotors are warped again. I installed them in December. They were resurfaced but makes me wonder. I had an older Camry shimmy like that after highway braking. I will grease the driveshaft easy and free like you said


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3RDGENGuy said:
I’m starting to think the front rotors are warped again. I installed them in December. They were resurfaced but makes me wonder. I had an older Camry shimmy like that after highway braking. I will grease the driveshaft easy and free like you said


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If the steering wheel doesn't shake or vibrate when braking then the problem is your rear brakes. Most likely one or both drums are out of round.
 
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