Jagerzel
New member
TRANSFORMING AN A340E TO AN A340F Transmission
I havn't been able to find a write up on this in particular so here it goes:
Background::: My transmission (192000mi) began slipping at red lights. Replaced fluid and filter and problem vanished. Weeks went by, and the slipping began again, along with grinding noises and subsequent trans oil hot light leading to complete failure, where the engine would crank over and rev but no acceleration. Transmission place quoted me ~4000$ for a rebuild including the 4wd diff and transfer case. I offered to pull it myself and bring it in for the rebuild and the price dropped to ~3000$. Now anyone familiar with Hawaii can tell you there arn't many options and also I am haole - google it. Also getting anything over 5 lbs shipped here is freight lol so that is not really an option either. So pretty much my best course of action is to do it myself and if all else fails pay someone. When mentioning the word rebuild everyone says stay away and don't do it. But honestly it wasn't that bad. The rebuild kit was 390$ including s/h. But the rebuild kit didn't fix the problem. No oil being pumped to the cooler. Found a donor tranny (AW4) from a jeep for 100$ and the parts inside matched so tried that. No luck. Went on deployment. While finishing up deployment starting cruising craigslist and found a brand new A340E for 600$. Now after researching a lot, came to the conclusion the A340E and A340F are the same except the output shaft and oil pan. Well I was right.
These pics do not show the PITA it is to remove the transmission LOL. That will be a different write up. This write up just shows the A340E receiving my A340F output shaft, filter and pan TRANSFORMING THE A340E INTO AN A340F!
The bible
Waiting in my garage for my return.
Sitting in this box since 2001.
Untouched since packaged
BAM!
The guy who sold it to me said don't take it apart.
Rear cone off
My transmission stand lol. The first rebuild I did, i wore white gloves and did it on a surgical table. At this point I could care less. I know exactly whats gonna pop out so I don't recommend this kind of stand for you. But it worked great honestly because the output shaft on the 2WD is so long. A double stack of 2x4 is good for 4WD output shaft length.
Oil pan off (and filter has been removed) Next is valve body. All bolts will be removed except the gold one and the 3 for solenoids. Also throttle cable will be disconnected and both lower oil tubes.
How I keep track of exact location of bolts and how the tubes go.
Valve body off. What pops out at you is the top right spring and the top left ball bearing and associated mini spring. The two large bolts below the metal bar come out and three gold bolts bottom right that hold the park claw. Also band tensioner. Also take the transmission housing off (large top part that connects tranny to engine) so the oil pump will come off very easy.
Use two bolts from the transmission housing to take lift oil pump out and two bolts from oil pump to lift O/D suuport assy out - or vice versa -you'll figure it out, but smart design.
The guts IN ORDER that come out so the output shaft can be removed
Output shafts. Shorty on the right is for the 4WD A340F and long one on left is for 2WD A340E. Sorry didn't line them up exactly but up to the point they stick out of rear of tranny they are an exact match. This was the first time I smiled since this thing broke March 2012.
A340F (4WD) oil pan on left, A340E (2WD) on right. 4WD is deeper and includes one more magnet.
A340E (2WD) tranny oil filter on top, A340F (4WD)filter on bottom
Filter bottom view. Note the 4WD takes one extra bolt - no problem since same valve body
Info
Info
Info
Installation is Opposite of Removal. Good Luck.
The only thing you are changing out is the output shaft, filter and oil pan. They all match up perfectly.
The tranny works perfect I am extremely happy to say!
Tips and Tricks, Not in Order
-Use 6 point wrenches and sockets, not 12 point.
-Turn the engine to remove the torque converter by putting a wrench on alternator nut. I had no luck with a screwdriver on the flex plate.
-The rack and pinion just needs to be slid 2ish inches forward, not taken all the way off - this relieves a lot of pain messing with steering column. (The rack and pinion removal is another reason labor is high for this job.
-Take both front tires off and sway bar. Just get them out the way all together.
-Buy a creeper. Buy long extensions, breaker bar and universal joint before you begin. You will not get the upper bolts off without a universal joint.
-Torque wrench, thread lock fluid, snap ring tool needed
-Dont over tighten any bolts. Brass ones snap off and oil pan will leak after the pan cuts through gasket.
-Expect 12 quarts of fluid when said and done.
-Gear oil for the transfer case.
-Petroleum jelly to hold various part in tranny.
-Have band aids. The tranny is sharp inside. Very sharp.
-When scraping residue gasket maker, don't get any in tranny
Not to brag but I removed and replaced this tranny 3 times solo with the aid of a floor jack and some 2x4s. The trick is to not install the 4WD transfer case until the tranny is in, then bench press the transfer case. Maybe I'll do a tranny write up - one day. Any questions comments please don't hesitate. I'll update this with more pics and info as I remember. There is a lot of info I know I'm forgetting.
It is advised to change the tranny oil and filter after 700mi. But I ask, do you do this to your new tranny on your new vehicle. No? Neither will I. I did add the B&M to save this tranny from any milkshakes.
**********************HARDEST LESSON LEARNED*****************
If you take anything from this let it be this - the torque convertor must be seated correctly. It will settle on the spline three times. I believe I did this incorrectly the first time and failed to recognize this until I bought this new tranny and kept reading and reading online. I had to stand the tranny on its butt (transfer case adapter) to set the convertor on correct. Then take rags and stuff around the convertor so it wouldn't slide off during install. Nay sayers will say you cannot install the transmission if the convertor is not seated all the way and I say with 100% confidence you can and I did on this vehicle.
I havn't been able to find a write up on this in particular so here it goes:
Background::: My transmission (192000mi) began slipping at red lights. Replaced fluid and filter and problem vanished. Weeks went by, and the slipping began again, along with grinding noises and subsequent trans oil hot light leading to complete failure, where the engine would crank over and rev but no acceleration. Transmission place quoted me ~4000$ for a rebuild including the 4wd diff and transfer case. I offered to pull it myself and bring it in for the rebuild and the price dropped to ~3000$. Now anyone familiar with Hawaii can tell you there arn't many options and also I am haole - google it. Also getting anything over 5 lbs shipped here is freight lol so that is not really an option either. So pretty much my best course of action is to do it myself and if all else fails pay someone. When mentioning the word rebuild everyone says stay away and don't do it. But honestly it wasn't that bad. The rebuild kit was 390$ including s/h. But the rebuild kit didn't fix the problem. No oil being pumped to the cooler. Found a donor tranny (AW4) from a jeep for 100$ and the parts inside matched so tried that. No luck. Went on deployment. While finishing up deployment starting cruising craigslist and found a brand new A340E for 600$. Now after researching a lot, came to the conclusion the A340E and A340F are the same except the output shaft and oil pan. Well I was right.
These pics do not show the PITA it is to remove the transmission LOL. That will be a different write up. This write up just shows the A340E receiving my A340F output shaft, filter and pan TRANSFORMING THE A340E INTO AN A340F!
The bible
Waiting in my garage for my return.
Sitting in this box since 2001.
Untouched since packaged
BAM!
The guy who sold it to me said don't take it apart.
Rear cone off
My transmission stand lol. The first rebuild I did, i wore white gloves and did it on a surgical table. At this point I could care less. I know exactly whats gonna pop out so I don't recommend this kind of stand for you. But it worked great honestly because the output shaft on the 2WD is so long. A double stack of 2x4 is good for 4WD output shaft length.
Oil pan off (and filter has been removed) Next is valve body. All bolts will be removed except the gold one and the 3 for solenoids. Also throttle cable will be disconnected and both lower oil tubes.
How I keep track of exact location of bolts and how the tubes go.
Valve body off. What pops out at you is the top right spring and the top left ball bearing and associated mini spring. The two large bolts below the metal bar come out and three gold bolts bottom right that hold the park claw. Also band tensioner. Also take the transmission housing off (large top part that connects tranny to engine) so the oil pump will come off very easy.
Use two bolts from the transmission housing to take lift oil pump out and two bolts from oil pump to lift O/D suuport assy out - or vice versa -you'll figure it out, but smart design.
The guts IN ORDER that come out so the output shaft can be removed
Output shafts. Shorty on the right is for the 4WD A340F and long one on left is for 2WD A340E. Sorry didn't line them up exactly but up to the point they stick out of rear of tranny they are an exact match. This was the first time I smiled since this thing broke March 2012.
A340F (4WD) oil pan on left, A340E (2WD) on right. 4WD is deeper and includes one more magnet.
A340E (2WD) tranny oil filter on top, A340F (4WD)filter on bottom
Filter bottom view. Note the 4WD takes one extra bolt - no problem since same valve body
Info
Info
Info
Installation is Opposite of Removal. Good Luck.
The only thing you are changing out is the output shaft, filter and oil pan. They all match up perfectly.
The tranny works perfect I am extremely happy to say!
Tips and Tricks, Not in Order
-Use 6 point wrenches and sockets, not 12 point.
-Turn the engine to remove the torque converter by putting a wrench on alternator nut. I had no luck with a screwdriver on the flex plate.
-The rack and pinion just needs to be slid 2ish inches forward, not taken all the way off - this relieves a lot of pain messing with steering column. (The rack and pinion removal is another reason labor is high for this job.
-Take both front tires off and sway bar. Just get them out the way all together.
-Buy a creeper. Buy long extensions, breaker bar and universal joint before you begin. You will not get the upper bolts off without a universal joint.
-Torque wrench, thread lock fluid, snap ring tool needed
-Dont over tighten any bolts. Brass ones snap off and oil pan will leak after the pan cuts through gasket.
-Expect 12 quarts of fluid when said and done.
-Gear oil for the transfer case.
-Petroleum jelly to hold various part in tranny.
-Have band aids. The tranny is sharp inside. Very sharp.
-When scraping residue gasket maker, don't get any in tranny
Not to brag but I removed and replaced this tranny 3 times solo with the aid of a floor jack and some 2x4s. The trick is to not install the 4WD transfer case until the tranny is in, then bench press the transfer case. Maybe I'll do a tranny write up - one day. Any questions comments please don't hesitate. I'll update this with more pics and info as I remember. There is a lot of info I know I'm forgetting.
It is advised to change the tranny oil and filter after 700mi. But I ask, do you do this to your new tranny on your new vehicle. No? Neither will I. I did add the B&M to save this tranny from any milkshakes.
**********************HARDEST LESSON LEARNED*****************
If you take anything from this let it be this - the torque convertor must be seated correctly. It will settle on the spline three times. I believe I did this incorrectly the first time and failed to recognize this until I bought this new tranny and kept reading and reading online. I had to stand the tranny on its butt (transfer case adapter) to set the convertor on correct. Then take rags and stuff around the convertor so it wouldn't slide off during install. Nay sayers will say you cannot install the transmission if the convertor is not seated all the way and I say with 100% confidence you can and I did on this vehicle.
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