I would suggest using a 00 or older with the cable. I only suggest that due to the 01-02 models are using the ECM to control the line pressure servo. Unless that is built in to the trans controller that you are wanting to use(from the title of your other thread), then the older trans would be the easier to adapt to what ever you are doing. Less electronics to deal with.
A340E to A340F Transmission Swap
- Thread starter Jagerzel
- Start date
I would suggest using a 00 or older with the cable. I only suggest that due to the 01-02 models are using the ECM to control the line pressure servo. Unless that is built in to the trans controller that you are wanting to use(from the title of your other thread), then the older trans would be the easier to adapt to what ever you are doing. Less electronics to deal with.
absalom
New member
Good stuff. I know need to figure out how control a kickdown cable with a drive by wire, as that's what I'll be transplanting into the truck.
Is it possible to just change out the solenoids in the valve body? My son has an '01 2WD 4Runner stuck in some higher gear (when not popped into neutral). He limped it into a parts store. They read a transmission solenoid fault code. Do they go bad and are they changeable? Any insight would be appreciated.
Doc2012
Senior Member
Take a look at the photos in the first post and you'll see one with the E and F output shafts side by side. The F shaft is shorter than all the splines on the E shaft.
That pic of the two shafts has me scratching my head. Cause I have seen a few videos where they just cut the shaft and drill for fluid passage and it works.
Like this one: Converting a Lexus A340e to 4WD - YouTube
Or I am over looking a detail somewhere.
The extension housing in the video looks very different from the extension housing on the A340E's that come in the 2wd 4Runners. If you pause @ 46 seconds in the video and compare it to the photos in the first post you'll notice the video extension housing looks much shorter vs the ones in the photos here.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The 4Runner (errr, truck) uses a slip yoke output which has a different spline setup than the "car" version of the A340E. The 'car' version uses a 3-bolt flange that bolts to a guibo, and that has a more compatible extension housing and output shaft for converting to 4WD.
-Charlie
BeastPradoT&T
New member
Hey guys I know this is a really old thread but I'm looking to do this but I was wondering if the a3040le is the same a340e transmission? Externally I can see they are nearly identical except for the 4wd. But I also noticed the selector rod by the neutral safety switch is on the right side with the switch it self and on my kzj90 prado it's on the left side.
So my questions are, can the rods be swapped out? And is the 3040le just another reference for the a340e? They both come in the supra as well.
My transmission in the van has finally given up after 22 years....the last 3 years it's been slipping and the last 2 weeks it has been revving up to 3500rpm before moving slow lol. The filter is changed every year with oil, so I'm guessing the transmission has just finally died. The oil came out black last month, changed oil and same thing within a few days.
Thanks for any info.
So my questions are, can the rods be swapped out? And is the 3040le just another reference for the a340e? They both come in the supra as well.
My transmission in the van has finally given up after 22 years....the last 3 years it's been slipping and the last 2 weeks it has been revving up to 3500rpm before moving slow lol. The filter is changed every year with oil, so I'm guessing the transmission has just finally died. The oil came out black last month, changed oil and same thing within a few days.
Thanks for any info.
The shift rod can be change from left to right by removing the side shift u don't want and then taking one out of the one that has ur correct side. There r so many versions of the A340 that to say, yes or no, too u without looking over which units u have.... u would need to take any answer u get with a grain of salt. One big difference u need to look at is ur units line pressure controlled by the ECU or just a cable, the VB can be change between many version to accommodate different swaps, U also need to look at the front pump to make sure u don't use a lower flow on a vehicle that needs the larger flow volume, I could go on and on but without having both units in front of me the variables are unkown.
BeastPradoT&T
New member
I will post some pics of both tomorrow. Thanks.
Only thing I know is the transmission I'm getting is from the aristo non vvti 2jzgte. It has the kickdown cable. One of the oil cooler lines has a temp unit.
Only thing I know is the transmission I'm getting is from the aristo non vvti 2jzgte. It has the kickdown cable. One of the oil cooler lines has a temp unit.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The output shaft and housing will not match the 4Runner (uses a 3-bolt guibo flange instead of slip yoke or stub shaft for a transfer case). The bellhousing and torque converter, pump etc. is probably also different.
You can likely mix and match parts, but it will be some work.
-Charlie
BeastPradoT&T
New member
The a3040le I was getting can't work as it uses a 5 solenoid and no kickdown cable. I would have to reuse my valve body which I don't want to for age reasons.
So the a3040le or a340e with the kickdown cable and 3 pin solenoid jack is the one I need to use.
I have already scrapped out my a340f and removed the output shaft, just waiting for a a340e cable type to start the process. Everything so far is simple, well I'm a mechanic but this is the first time I'm going inside an auto trans.
I could just rebuild it as to me it's not complex, but would take a longer time as I'm picky with cleanliness and making sure everything is done correctly.
So the a3040le or a340e with the kickdown cable and 3 pin solenoid jack is the one I need to use.
I have already scrapped out my a340f and removed the output shaft, just waiting for a a340e cable type to start the process. Everything so far is simple, well I'm a mechanic but this is the first time I'm going inside an auto trans.
I could just rebuild it as to me it's not complex, but would take a longer time as I'm picky with cleanliness and making sure everything is done correctly.
BeastPradoT&T
New member
So I got a correct transmission, it's an a3040le well so far all that I've seen is a3040le coded. 1jzge and gte as well as 2jzge and gte. The ones with the kickdown cable had the neutral switch on same side as my prado one as well as same 3 pin solenoid jack and valvebody.
I'm just waiting for front and rear prop shaft seals, the input shaft seal in the casing and a seal and bearing in the adapter housing case. Want to get the transfer case finished before I start the transmission work of swapping output shafts.
Here in T&T it's very difficult to find and I'm not find it in the U.S as my parents live in Nashville. If I can find it online, I would let them ship it to me.
I'm just waiting for front and rear prop shaft seals, the input shaft seal in the casing and a seal and bearing in the adapter housing case. Want to get the transfer case finished before I start the transmission work of swapping output shafts.
Here in T&T it's very difficult to find and I'm not find it in the U.S as my parents live in Nashville. If I can find it online, I would let them ship it to me.
BeastPradoT&T
New member
So I got everything running and had to drop the trans again as the oil pump seal was leaking and I lost all my oil.
Put it up using my old torque converter and I think that might have been a mistake. I'm not getting a slow moving van on L 2 and D doesn't matter and Have to rev it up to start moving. Once it moves, it works normal until stopping again. Reverse works perfect however.
Any clues? Could it be a quart or 2 low on oil? Oil is cherry red and clean
Put it up using my old torque converter and I think that might have been a mistake. I'm not getting a slow moving van on L 2 and D doesn't matter and Have to rev it up to start moving. Once it moves, it works normal until stopping again. Reverse works perfect however.
Any clues? Could it be a quart or 2 low on oil? Oil is cherry red and clean
BeastPradoT&T
New member
So I dropped the transmission again and I'm seeing a burnt destroyed bearing in the overdrive support. The others behind looks good.
I'm guessing this was due to oil leaking out without me knowing until the van starting feeling like it was low on oil and this caused extreme heat to damage that bearing and race.
I'm planning to pull out everything and clean it up and mount it back up with my old overdrive support and bearing and race as well as scrap the valve body to clean it one time. Unless there may be another way to clean the valve body channels?
I'm guessing this was due to oil leaking out without me knowing until the van starting feeling like it was low on oil and this caused extreme heat to damage that bearing and race.
I'm planning to pull out everything and clean it up and mount it back up with my old overdrive support and bearing and race as well as scrap the valve body to clean it one time. Unless there may be another way to clean the valve body channels?
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