About to buy...

Maxil

Maxil

New member
I have already lined up a 98' 4x4 SR5 with 95K miles on it. It is a good little drive so I am trying to get things set before I go. The owner says there is nothing mechanically wrong with it, he is also still driving it as a DD so that makes me feel a bit better about it.

I have told him several times that if anything is wrong I will still back out. I have asked 2 mechanics and basically got the same answer. Give it a good look over and see if anything is leaking or odd, a good test drive to make sure it's functioning properly and you are set.

Anything major I need to keep an eye out for when getting it? I have driven a 97' 4x2 many times and it's tranny is messed up from when somebody stole the cadalytic converter, so I kinda know what a bad tranny feels like hehe.

Thanks a bunch,
Maxil
 
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heres what i have been doing

crawling under the thing to inspect all the boots and bushings and if oil is present really look for where its coming from. Start it up from the time you get there for the whole time you are looking at it make sure its not running hot

then give them the cash and go home but negoiate everything that you wil need to fix but i dont think at 95k theres much thats needs to be done

good luck
 
I was in the same boat as you a couple of weeks ago. What made it worse was the last car I bought had a lot of problems with it about a month after I bought it so I was very nervous buying an older car let alone a car with 150,000 miles on it.

Make sure you test drive it right when you get there and then like said, leave it on while you inspect the rest of the car. If you didn't do a carfax on it then make sure to check the radiator support to see if it was in a fender bender.

I don't know what state your from so I don't know how nervous you are about rust but get down and look under the car.

Lastly, don't be afraid to walk away from it if it's "not the one". I may have passed on about 3 4runners just because I wasn't feeling it. Either the truck wasn't that good of condition or the seller was a little sketchy. The one I ended up buying had all the paper work for everything ever done to it since it was new. So see if they have any records of past maintenance.

Good Luck!
 
I appreciate the suggestions. One thing I will be doing is looking over the underside of it. I checked the carfax and it matches exactly what the owner told me about it. It should not be rusted underneath due to the area is has stayed in, easter North Carolina.

Also, I am renting a car and he is going to meet me about a 45 minute drive from where he lives. I will inspect it as best I can there, if all looks well we drive 45 minutes back to his home town to his bank. I can still back out anywhere up to that point. I figure if it makes it both ways with no problem that should weed out a lot of issues it may have.

I would hate to walk away, especially after renting a car and spending a day getting it, but I would by far do that over getting something that didn't feel right.

Thanks,
Maxil
 
Ask if it has had the timing belt and water pump done yet. It's suppsed to be done at 90K and the service will cost about $600 average (depending on what region you live in and the shop).
 
Where in eastern NC. I am in Wilmington right now if you need some extra eyes. Has the timing belt been done? Also, make sure to throw it in 4wd and make sure that all feels normal.
 
I'm also in eastern NC, about an hour and a half northwest of Wilmington. You shouldn't have to worry too much about anything around here, although if it's from the beach you will want to check for rust.
 
As far as the current owner knows the timing belt hasn't been changed. The first owner had it 8 years so it's possible he changed it. If not I have a toyota Mechanic friend who would likely do it a lot cheaper.

The first owner lived in Cary, So if he went to the beach it wasn't much. The second owner lives near there as well, so hopefully none.

Also, I do intend to take it in some dirt and test the 4x4 system. The owner did say he used it this winter when it snowed and it worked fine.

Thanks again,
Maxil
 
auxiliary said:
Make sure you test drive it right when you get there and then like said, leave it on while you inspect the rest of the car. If you didn't do a carfax on it then make sure to check the radiator support to see if it was in a fender bender.
Click to expand...

You can easily put a new radiator support in it.
 
JohnsD90 said:
You can easily put a new radiator support in it.
Click to expand...

Yes, correct.

But usually cars that have been wrecked always seem to have a weird "ghost" that just doesn't leave them. May be the frame is bent a tad, the wheels never get aligned right again, seems like there's always something.
 
pull the carfax-but verify as well

As mentioned the t-belt & waterpump should have been done at 90K miles, new belts and hoses are typically done then also if they are even a little bit iffy. While it is all taken apart those items are no added labor virtually. $600 would be a good price for such a job-many have spent $900 or more.

Pull the carfax but be aware that even if involved in an accident as long as insurance company was not notified the carfax will be clean. Definitely test out the 4wheel drive and not on the pavement of course. Not sure if that would be shift on the fly but if so then do so and see how the owner reacts-keep below allowable speed to do so of course...

I like to pull a full 360 degree turn in both directions (think big parking lot) and listen for power steering squeal. A second set of eyes as offered by the other member is always a wise idea. Getting the tires wet on a level road and watching their tracks made is a good way to verify alignment. Should drive with no significant pull to either side, good shake free ride at 65 mph means the front suspension is up to snuff.

Good rubber? Full maintenance records? When was last alignment and so on?

Pull the dipstick and view that oil- you will be amazed how many folks do not even check it. Get a chance to view where it is parked? Look for telltale signs of leakage...

Price negotiation points are no rear locker? No leather interior? No sunroof? Good interior body trim panels and exterior for that matter...do a full safety check of all lights and turn signals and so on.

Good luck and I hope the price meets your point given condition and mileage.

As mentioned do not hesitate to walk away if seller seems sketchy whatsoever. 45 minutes from his bank? That strikes me a bit odd right there. Though it might mean nothing at all...
 
salvaged said:
where is he ???? im waiting to hear how it went
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Sorry, it's been an very hectic week/end. I am heading there Tuesday to check it out and hopefully be driving home in it.

Writing a big checklist before I go, and will post pics and tell you guys about it if and when I get it.

Thanks,
Maxil
 
You never let us know wha the starting price point he has it listed at is? This in my opinion will make a large difference depending on what it may or may not need. Overall though, T4R's are everywhere, and you shouldn't have a problem finding one that is up to par for you provided you look long enough. Good luck and let us know how it goes. :)
 
daugherty83 said:
You never let us know wha the starting price point he has it listed at is? This in my opinion will make a large difference depending on what it may or may not need. Overall though, T4R's are everywhere, and you shouldn't have a problem finding one that is up to par for you provided you look long enough. Good luck and let us know how it goes. :)
Click to expand...

The starting price was $7500 obo. I got him to $6000 conditional that it is in the condition he described to me. Which is basically perfect condition except a small crack in the windshield passenger side that can be sealed easily. If anything is not as stated we will be re-negotiating that price, or I leave.

Where I live they just seem to sell faster and for more. For Instance, it was about a month ago that one of the same year and package sold for $6400. Difference was it had 42K more miles, no Chome brush guard and KC headlights, also no K & N air intake. The only thing that was a tad better was the brand of tires, yet both are new. That one sold in 18 hours, I have seen similar ones going just as fast or faster.

If it is in good condition I will be very happy with the purchase, especially considering my friend can change the timing belt much cheaper for me.

Maxil
 
Okay I drove it home yesterday. I checked all fluids, body condition, interior parts and instruments and everything worked great. After a test drive we finalized the deal and I drove home the 6 hours back to Ga. Ran cool the whole way, transmission shifts beautifully and engine ran great.

I would give the body a 9.5/10 it does have a very small pea size ding in the back door which is barely noticeable, and some very small scratches that I will remedy soon enough. The brush guard has a tiny amount of rush and the trailer hitch has a bit inside it as well. Other than that I am extremely happy with it.

More to come but here it is.
 

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