Hey guys,
Got this done yesterday with the help of a very skillful friend. Went well and want to thank JD and all the others who contributed experiences and thoughts. I want to make a few notes for others who are doing this in the future - these are not covered in the very excellent write-up on Toyota120, so its important to add. The thread on Toyota120 is already closed, so I am not sure how to add this there.
All in, it is an easy on paper job, but most of the time was spent on radiator bracket and steering spacer. I believe for bodylifts under 1", you can avoid those two. If that was the case, you can do this whole thing in 2-3 hours, even if you haven't done it before. My lift was 1.5" so it took us 7 hours total.
Final result.
Got this done yesterday with the help of a very skillful friend. Went well and want to thank JD and all the others who contributed experiences and thoughts. I want to make a few notes for others who are doing this in the future - these are not covered in the very excellent write-up on Toyota120, so its important to add. The thread on Toyota120 is already closed, so I am not sure how to add this there.
- Front bumper - The Toyota120 write-up says to just remove the front bumper and he had an aftermarket bumper to start with. For those wanting to do the bodylift with stock bumper, here is what I figured out (JD and others did the same). Undo the bolts at the very bottom of the front bumper - there are 4 or 5 of them, you can see them on the inside of the bumper all the way at the bottom, if you are looking down inside the bumper with the hood open. This will let the front bumper "stretch" as you jack up the body. Once the body lift is in, the bumper stretches to fit, you have to drill new holes since old holes won't line up. Simple job. No gaps show between the front bumper and the body after the bodylift, which is great news.
- Jacking up the truck with sliders still attached. Yes, this can be done, quite easily. See pictures below. We were able to jack the entire side up - front, cab and rear by using only two jack points. My sliders didn't have to come off.
- Steering shaft spacer - as everyone already pointed out, this is the hardest part (though the radiator drop bracket installation was hard also, needed a lot of finesses in tight spaces). My steering shaft did not budge when pushed from the engine bay, as instructions suggest. We just couldnt get the spacer in, and the bolts lined up. There wasn't enough room. So we took off the collar at the bottom of the steering column inside the cabin. It is indexed and only goes back on one way. This made it possible for us. We also lost center and had to count turns to find it again, and it worked out. No VSC light and did not have to do zero point calibration.
- The instructions say to drill out the front frame holes where the extended bolt that comes with the kit passes through. We found that you didn't have to do that. We just had to take the bodymount off, and drill the top and bottom of the bodymount out. That did the trick.
- The instructions say to tighten to 40 ft-lbs, however someone posted above that was not enough. So we tightened them down to 80 ft-lbs. We were careful to make sure the lift blocks didn't crack.
All in, it is an easy on paper job, but most of the time was spent on radiator bracket and steering spacer. I believe for bodylifts under 1", you can avoid those two. If that was the case, you can do this whole thing in 2-3 hours, even if you haven't done it before. My lift was 1.5" so it took us 7 hours total.
Final result.
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