About to install lift. Tips?

Andrew Larson

New member
I'm about to intel toytec and lc springs with bilsteina all around and a front differential drop. Is there any little tricks I need to know for anything through the whole process?
 
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PB blast everything. If you need to compress shocks go too auto part store and buy some spring compressors, I have used them many times and its a little work but saves some money.

Also when you go too install the new shocks/springs in the front you will need to push the hub way down to fit the lifted springs. A good trick is take your stock car jack, flip it upside down and put it in the top of the wheel well and jack the UCA down so the hub is low enough to install the bottom bolt on the shock.

The rear shocks can be a PITA to remove, spray them a lot, let it sit, spray again top bolts. To remove the shock I put a wrench on top and grab the entire shock assembly with a huge wrench, it damages the shock but gives a good grip to spin the shock and either break the top bolt off or it sometimes comes off.

GOOD LUCK!!
 
Totally what Jay said about the rear shocks. I sawzalled the cover of the shock. I found it handy to have a crowbar also for leverage when installing the rear springs. Also, if you're about due for a LBJ swap...I'd recommend you do it while installing the lift. And a breaker bar REALLY helps.
 
How would you break the top bolt on the shock?

You jam a wrench on the top bolt, they are usually rusted on. When turning the shock assembly the top bolt either breaks loose or just usually breaks off. Another trick is jam a screwdriver throught he metal wall on the shock assembly to give yourself leverage to break the bolt loose. Just like the oil filter trick.
 
Honestly take my advice for the front end. There is no need to pry and bind up your control arm bushings. Just looosen up both upper and lower arms after the shock is removed.install new shock with no prying just push down a little and it will slide right in. Then lower the front end back to the ground and retorque control arms. Front lift made easy.....
 
If you can get a peanut grinder and a cutting wheel you can cut through the shock bushing on the rear shocks and then you won't cut into the pressurized part of the shock- I accidentally hit that and had oil spray everywhere from the inside of the shock. Not a big deal just an unnecessary and avoidable mess.
 
Honestly take my advice for the front end. There is no need to pry and bind up your control arm bushings. Just looosen up both upper and lower arms after the shock is removed.install new shock with no prying just push down a little and it will slide right in. Then lower the front end back to the ground and retorque control arms. Front lift made easy.....

x2. Another way is to remove the 4 bolts from the underside of the LBJ assembly. Then you can easily depress the Control Arms down. I highly recommend keeping a close eye on your CV boots after lift install and driving for a bit. Your inner boot seals will likely fail and spray grease everywhere. Also, check the upper bracket bolts on the rear Billies after a bit of driving. Lot of folks have had them come loose afterwards-
 
Just finished my lift last weekend, dont even lube that top bolt, sawzal right through the rubber bushing then through the bolt underneath it... literally took me 45 minutes to do the rear. And buy some spring compressors, they're worth their weight in gold!
 
when you pull the struts out, grab them by the coils and not the bottom. crushed my finger with that one. lol. and instead of unbolting everything, just undo struts and the sway bar link. find a nice long pry bar and put it over the UCA and under the mount and that should be solid enough to give you some nice tourque and get you room to put the struts in.
 
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I don't know if its cause I'm in Arizona where there's no rust but I just put a deep socket, i think 14mm, on the top nut for the rear shock and slowly loosened it. Once It was loose I just spun the shock with my hand with my wrench/deep socket on the top to keep the nut in place. If all that makes sense. I got my rear shocks off in about 5 minutes. Besides not having the proper jack stands, the hardest part for me was getting the panhard bar back on because the holes didn't line up at first to put in the bolt through.
 

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