ABS Booster Assembly $3945 plus tax!!

[Ron_Mexico]

I have a 2006 4Runner Sport V6. The Brakes were acting funny (ABS/brake pedal pulsing) and finally ABS light is on, VLC, Skid symbol ect.

Now it seems that the ABS system is disabled. Reading the forums it looks like I have to replace the whole ABS module. I went online to price it out and almost got a heart attack. $4000 plus tax, plus labor. This might cost me over $5000 CAD in repairs!! Canadian prices are bad!! I don’t know what to do.

With all the lights on the brakes seem fine. I know I won’t have ABS, but is it ok to just ignore the issue and drive it as is? I remember my fist car didn’t have ABS, and when you were sliding trying to stop you just pump the brakes.

I don’t think I can afford such a repair. Anyone else on this forum just leave it in this state??

 

[rdruss]

Pretty sure you will eventually have to address it as it will become undriveable.

 

[Ron_Mexico]

Pretty sure you will eventually have to address it as it will become undriveable.

How would it become undrivable?? It feels like regular brakes but no ABS function. I’m no expert but am I missing something?? Is something else going to go wrong down the line??

 

[OopsIBrokeIt]

Maybe look into a reman booster?

Or see if you can buy one outside the dealership? afaik those are going for well under 1k, often more like $500 usd.

Worst case can you go buy one stateside and then have it installed back home?

 

[AuSeeker]

Check for loose or broken wires, especially at the wheel speed sensors, also could be a bad sensor, check for codes to know for sure where the issue is, you will need a code reader that can do ABS codes.

If the brake booster function fails completely then you will more or less have no brakes, the pedal will become hard as a rock with little braking action, my failed and I had to use downshifting and eventually the parking brake to get it to stop!!

Here's what I paid for the assembly when mine failed, I installed it myself so no labor, just the part and shipping.

47050-35030 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder

 

[SocalSam]

Disconnect, inspect, clean as needed all module connectors. Read ABS codes. As long as pedal pressure is good and pump and accumulator are not making noise, you have time. Agree with the others that this requires attention sooner than later.

 

[SocalSam]

...Here's what I paid for the assembly when mine failed, I installed it myself so no labor, just the part and shipping.

47050-35030 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder

You can do it the right way (AuSeeker) or my way. I cross referenced the assembly on ebay of all places, found a donor car at my self serve yard and did the install myself. $60 all in.

 

[Ron_Mexico]

Disconnect, inspect, clean as needed all module connectors. Read ABS codes. As long as pedal pressure is good and pump and accumulator are not making noise, you have time. Agree with the others that this requires attention sooner than later.

Using a code reader I found 3 codes:

C0200 Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit

C1223 ABS Ccontrol system malfunction

C1235 Foreign object attached on top of speed sensor

I recently replaced this sensor. Doesn’t make sense. When I originally had issues with ABS system (brakes pulsing) I attempted to inspect/clean the sensors to troubleshoot. Unfortunately when I tried to remove the front right sensor it broke. I replaced it with and Amazon.ca $20 sensor. Could this be the problem?? I cheaped out on getting the proper OEM sensor that would cost me over $200 CAD to replace!!

 

[SocalSam]

Amazon sensor. I think we have a strong possibility. Scanner should be able to read sensor output.

EDIT ADD: If you can read the codes, module is likely good. That's good news.

 

[thennen]

Using a code reader I found 3 codes:

C0200 Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit

C1223 ABS Ccontrol system malfunction

C1235 Foreign object attached on top of speed sensor

I recently replaced this sensor. Doesn’t make sense. When I originally had issues with ABS system (brakes pulsing) I attempted to inspect/clean the sensors to troubleshoot. Unfortunately when I tried to remove the front right sensor it broke. I replaced it with and Amazon.ca $20 sensor. Could this be the problem?? I cheaped out on getting the proper OEM sensor that would cost me over $200 CAD to replace!!

Might be the reason Toyota builds them with OEM parts instead of Amazon-available parts. ;-)

 

[Ron_Mexico]

Amazon sensor. I think we have a strong possibility. Scanner should be able to read sensor output.

EDIT ADD: If you can read the codes, module is likely good. That's good news.

Sensor output?? What value should the sensor read?

Thanks for the reply!!

 

[SocalSam]

I'm on shaky ground regard Toyota sensor output. This being said, if no output, sensor or wiring is open. If there is output, compare to the other side that has known good. Tone ring type sensor will read in Volts which should agree side to side.

 

[Ron_Mexico]

I'm on shaky ground regard Toyota sensor output. This being said, if no output, sensor or wiring is open. If there is output, compare to the other side that has known good. Tone ring type sensor will read in Volts which should agree side to side.

I tried to do this with a multimeter. I removed the connector from the sensor that I know is good (front left sensor). There are two connector wires in the sensor. I tried to touch each wire with the leads (1 red, 1 black) and nothing changes on the screen of the multimeter. When I touch the leads together the multimeter beeps and I get different readings. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong here!!

 

[SocalSam]

I tried to do this with a multimeter. I removed the connector from the sensor that I know is good (front left sensor). There are two connector wires in the sensor. I tried to touch each wire with the leads (1 red, 1 black) and nothing changes on the screen of the multimeter. When I touch the leads together the multimeter beeps and I get different readings. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong here!!

Did you set meter to AC? I think you have meter on continuity check. With meter in AC, spin wheel by hand. You should see Voltage reading which indicates something is working. Whether or not sensor is reading within range is a different issue.

 

[Ron_Mexico]

Did you set meter to AC? I think you have meter on continuity check. With meter in AC, spin wheel by hand. You should see Voltage reading which indicates something is working. Whether or not sensor is reading within range is a different issue.

I had the dial turned to ohms (200). I watched YouTube videos of people getting ohm readings to compare sensors. I tried the dial on ACV (200) and it just reads 0. I don’t understand these things!!

 

[rdruss]

Quit jacking around and go buy the oem sensor.

 

[SocalSam]

I had the dial turned to ohms (200). I watched YouTube videos of people getting ohm readings to compare sensors. I tried the dial on ACV (200) and it just reads 0. I don’t understand these things!!

Set meter to auto-range or manually adjust meter to be sure there is no voltage being generated by the rotation of the wheel. If there is no voltage, sensor is open and definitely bad. I think resistance test and or continuity test will also tell us if wiring or sensor is open which is bad. Keep in mind, this is Ford stuff and not Toyota specific.

 

[SocalSam]

Quit jacking around and go buy the oem sensor.

This. I was trying to be nice.

 

[Ron_Mexico]

Quit jacking around and go buy the oem sensor.

LoL you’re right. I ordered an OEM sensor. I’m returning the Amazon junk sensor!!

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Good Stuff you guys lol. One thing I learned about Toyota when messing around with electrical on the 1st gen I owned, is Millivolts matter. If the computer sees any errant readings not even slightly within normal parameters, the diagnostic codes will trigger. Hence the 1000s of complaints about OEM bootleg parts and just plain aftermarket junk.