ABS light on, turn signals not working

[maine runner]

Stock '99 LTD.
No off roading.
78k

(I have searched here and Yotatech prior to posting this)

Yesterday I started using Sirius via one of the two 12v plugs below ashtray.

Today ABS light stayed on after starting. In doing errands, each restart the light would stay on. Once it went off but on restart, stayed on. At the same time I noticed the turn signal display (left and right triangles on dash) dimly lit when headlights on. With headlights off they were not lit. This afternoon I noticed the shift indicator light (D) on dash would blink when I used the turn signal.

Early this evening I went out again to look it over and started the truck. ABS light on and now the turn signals don't work at all.

I checked the fuses in the engine compartment, all okay.

I can change a fuse but am not comfortable pulling wires for sensors etc...I am planning on taking the truck to the dealer anyway for the (*&^%$ pulsing/warped rotor problem anyway.I would appreciate your advice so I don't get scammed.

 

[fr8hauler]

Did you disconnect the Sirius to see if it was affecting the computer in the runner? It's probably just coincidence, but it doesn't hurt to check.
Good luck.

 

[maine runner]

update. 1 problem solved, one new problem

I took fr8hauler's advice today.

This a.m. I unplugged the power for the Sirius radio and started the truck (cold start) . ABS light went off. No turn signals. Remembered the inner fuse box, broke out the manual and see there is #22 for turn signals. Pulled it and it was blown. Replaced with a spare and signals are working. BUT.....

New problem.

Later this a.m. started the truck to go somewhere, no ABS light on BUT can't shift out of PARK. The overide button works but it is still disconcerting. I think I may have blown another fuse (given above).

I followed the manual's directions, engine off, pushed switch in, shifted to N and started the truck. At first it stalled and then started with a bit of gas.

Could this be the flaky conditions telling me my alternator is dying?

In looking at the series of events I forgot one item. This past Wednesday I returned from a 300 mile drive. 50 miles from home, at a rest stop the truck stalled when I was idling in a parking space.

Hmmm...

 

[trd_style]

Re: update. 1 problem solved, one new problem

I took fr8hauler's advice today.

This a.m. I unplugged the power for the Sirius radio and started the truck (cold start) . ABS light went off. No turn signals. Remembered the inner fuse box, broke out the manual and see there is #22 for turn signals. Pulled it and it was blown. Replaced with a spare and signals are working. BUT.....

New problem.

Later this a.m. started the truck to go somewhere, no ABS light on BUT can't shift out of PARK. The overide button works but it is still disconcerting. I think I may have blown another fuse (given above).

I followed the manual's directions, engine off, pushed switch in, shifted to N and started the truck. At first it stalled and then started with a bit of gas.

Could this be the flaky conditions telling me my alternator is dying?

In looking at the series of events I forgot one item. This past Wednesday I returned from a 300 mile drive. 50 miles from home, at a rest stop the truck stalled when I was idling in a parking space.

Hmmm...

It could be the alternator but it's kinda weird how you can't shift out of park. Did you turn the key even though you didn't ignite the car? It should shift out either way. Sirius shouldn't use that much power to blow the fuse. Hmmm

 

[maine runner]

Not sure what you mean.

I can't shift with engine running or stopped, even with brake depressed.
I think this is another symptom of the problem.

I hazard a guess that there is some electrical connection made when you press the brake that unlocks the shifter.

I recall reading here or at Yota tech that when your alternator starts fritzing, intermintent electrical issues occur.

Anybody?

 

[trd_style]

Not sure what you mean.

I can't shift with engine running or stopped, even with brake depressed.
I think this is another symptom of the problem.

I hazard a guess that there is some electrical connection made when you press the brake that unlocks the shifter.

I recall reading here or at Yota tech that when your alternator starts fritzing, intermintent electrical issues occur.

Anybody?

Basically, turn your key, step on your brakes, and try to shift out of park. If it doesn't work, put your key into the keyhole next to your shifter, mine is on the top right side. And try to shift down from there. If THAT works but when turn key and press down on brake doesn't work, i recommend taking it to the shop and get it fixed.

 

[maine runner]

Problem found!

Took the truck to the dealer.

Long story short - aftermarket Uhaul trailer light converter shorting. This makes sense.

I blew the factory trailer light converter 2 years ago and had a uhaul brand converter added (off the tail lights) since the OEM replacement is $%^& expensive.

(have posted on the board about the factory converter.)

This is now the 2nd uhaul converter to crap out.

I may have them install the OEM converter since I need the trailer lights to tow. Thinking of adding a fuse to prevent it from frying the converter.


Thanks for your help !!!!

 

[fr8hauler]

Don't Spend The Big Bucks On OEM!

I replaced my blown converter with one from www.etrailer.com and it works fine. I think it only cost about $40.00 for the one with a protection circuit inside.
If you search my posts I think I posted instructions on installation in case you are unsure.
Good luck!

 

[maine runner]

Fr8hauler -

I do recall your thread.

Was it THIS ONE?

Does this "replace" the factory converter and get installed in the same location OR is it off the tail lights?

I am not as adverse to removing the rear side piece having done the wiring for the Sirius as well as removing the rear carpet and pad.

Thanks

 

[fr8hauler]

I think I ordered this http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/m...tore_Code=E&Product_Code=31823&Category_Code=
In case the link doesn't work, it's item 31823.
If you search for "converter" on their site, you'll get a list of several, this one seemed to be the best match. It is installed exactly where the OEM one was, you just have to cut the plug ends and splice the wires in.
The OEM converter is behind the left taillight stuck to the inside of the fender with double-sided tape. You'll need to pull the left side panel away after removing the plastic sill at the end of the cargo area. The panel is attached with plugs that pop out and go right back in very easily. I popped out just enough to reach in and put a screwdriver between the panel and the metal to hold it out so I could work on the converter.
As I attached each wire, I verified that each signal, tail, and brake light worked along the way before taping everything up.
It's working fine for me. I don't tow a lot, but I've had no problems.
Good luck.