ABS/Speed Sensor Conundrum...

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Looking for some help:

I have a 2000 SR5 4x4 and when I got it, the passenger front speed sensor was not installed and the ABS light was on. Did all the test drive, everything went great. Paid the guy, and before leaving, he installed a new speed sensor from Toyota.

The guy was a Toyota mechanic, and had been at their local Toyota dealership for 12 years. I say that to give him some merit.

On the way home, mostly highway driving, when coming to a stop, I felt a slight grind feeling in the pedal, as if the ABS was attempting to kick in. This didn’t happen a single time on the test drive prior to him putting the speed sensor in. It doesn’t happen every time when coming to a stop, probably 1 of 3.

I took it to my local alignment shop, who’s been in business for well over 30 years, and they weren’t sure what it could be, besides the ABS module. Their suggestion was to swap it and get a new speed sensor.

I swapped the ABS module, took If for a drive, same issue.

Then I got a new speed sensor, installed it, same issue.

But, weirdly (maybe it’s not weird, but I’m just new to my 4runner), when the speed sensor is unplugged, I have no issues at all.

Anyone have advice?

Thanks


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When a speed sensor is unplugged (ABS light on), the whole system is disengaged. Whatever is confusing the system is still there - maybe one of the other speed sensors?

Remove each of the rear speed sensors and check to make sure the tone ring is visible in there (sometimes they are misaligned after an axle seal job).

-Charlie
 
i had this issue as well, Would get the ABS engaging everytime i came to a slower stop. Turned out i had a sensor that was just barely not seated all the way. clean the seat surface and make sure they are all the way in.
Also, mine didnt work 100% correctly until after i seated it and then disconnected the battery for a little bit.
 
Joelzy said:
i had this issue as well, Would get the ABS engaging everytime i came to a slower stop. Turned out i had a sensor that was just barely not seated all the way. clean the seat surface and make sure they are all the way in.
Also, mine didnt work 100% correctly until after i seated it and then disconnected the battery for a little bit.
Click to expand...



Thank you for the advice and encouragement! It’s been driving me crazy! I will be taking both of y’all’s advice and checking it out this weekend!


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You are getting what is called false ABS activation. Most likely the guy didn't install the sensor, he just plugged it back is so the light would go out. You probably have a bad rear axle bearing, front wheel bearing, cracked tone ring or it even could be rust build up under the sensor. You have a sensor gap issue, a signal drop out that causes false activation, but won't always set a code or turn on the light. Chevy trucks had a horrible problem with this in the 90's due to rust build up on the machined sensor mounting pad lifting the sensor and changing the gap and later on the Silverados from constantly failing front hub assemblies.
 
So, I've been having a similar issue. Did some front work (ball joints, brakes, tie rods, wheel bearings, shocks) and started having some issues out of the ABS. At one point, the spindle dropped, and tugged pretty hard on the sensor wire....thought this was the problem, so I replaced the sensor.

Still had the light on, so I ran the test, and it showed the same wheel....I check the sensor with an ohm meter and got 1650. Took it out of it's mounting location, and there was a piece of debris stuck to the end. Remounted, and no light.

Prior to the check, I could drive for a day or two with no light, then it would come on. IF what it did doesn't fix it, and the sensor is good, but the code still indicates that wheel, what do I do next?
 
tikibutt said:
So, I've been having a similar issue. Did some front work (ball joints, brakes, tie rods, wheel bearings, shocks) and started having some issues out of the ABS. At one point, the spindle dropped, and tugged pretty hard on the sensor wire....thought this was the problem, so I replaced the sensor.



Still had the light on, so I ran the test, and it showed the same wheel....I check the sensor with an ohm meter and got 1650. Took it out of it's mounting location, and there was a piece of debris stuck to the end. Remounted, and no light.



Prior to the check, I could drive for a day or two with no light, then it would come on. IF what it did doesn't fix it, and the sensor is good, but the code still indicates that wheel, what do I do next?
Click to expand...
What you did should fix it. Rust and metal stuck to the sensor does exactly what you explained..:)

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tikibutt said:
At one point, the spindle dropped, and tugged pretty hard on the sensor wire....thought this was the problem,

there was a piece of debris stuck to the end. Remounted, and no light.

IF what it did doesn't fix it, and the sensor is good, but the code still indicates that wheel, what do I do next?
Click to expand...

Check connector/harness sensor plugs into what I'd do.
 
When you check the sensor that was missing, look through the hole and verify that the axle installed in the vehicle has a tone ring. I have had a couple aftermarket axles customers have asked us to install that either were missing a tone ring or it was improperly installed requiring us to send it back for a new one.

If you have any warning lights on, try jumping the diagnostic connector and see if you can pull blink codes from the ABS module to narrow down where the issue might be.
 
this is very similar to what's happening with my 02...except my main issue is loss of power when accelerating from a full stop intermittently, it's not trans mission but I did notice that my traction control switch does nothing to the TCS light on the dash....so I can't tell if its on or off
 
Hello Yall! 1st post big time lurker on here. I have the same problem right now as most of you went through. Had some work done to the suspension year ago but ever since that work the light would come and go and when I go over a bump it turn on and go away. Then recently as I’m driving down the highway the when I hit the brakes at 60mph the 4RNR would shake it brains out then when I let off the gas it would go away. Well to shorten the story I took it to a shop that put the suspension in they said that the rear sensor looked stretched out and they replaced it then called me said we fixed it. So i told them I would pick it up tomorrow then I called early this morning they said it came back on then it went away they drive it up the highway some and it never came back on. Do you think is a case of the dirty ring. I have 4 year old I drive in this thing worried the brakes will go out and shake again.
Thank you in advance for any help.
 
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