Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

[absalom]

I've created the following "4runner Recipe Book" in response to an increasing number of PM's I have received many questions asking for advice and input on building up a 1996-2002 Toyota 4runner. The question usually goes something like this: "I have saggy OEM coils, with spacers front and back. My 33" tires rub like crazy. What should I begin replacing??". I've developed a series of easily replicable cookie cutter builds. We'll cover build ups for all walks of life, all driving styles, and more importantly, all wallet sizes! Without further adieu, let's jump right in!

Budget OEM Refresh

This build path would suit someone who just bought their first 4runner used. This person might be unsure of the truck's maintenance history. It tackles important, simple upkeep items, before delving into the suspension and tires. The user will end up with a very smooth running, reliable, semi-capable truck. Lighter trails, long road trips, daily errands -- all tackled with ease, just as Toyota designed. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - not brand specific
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New OEM-style rubber steering bushings
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• Used 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias

The DD/WW build is aimed at folks who spend the majority of their time on pavement, but frequently take their trucks off-roading on the weekends. Great for a family that enjoys camping, a traveling salesperson, or a hunter. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured they're getting the best quality on road.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New OEM sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Trail Bias

This variant of the DD/WW build is geared towards drivers who desire a slightly more aggressive look and the extra traction of off-road tires. Great for the guy who loves bombing fire roads, medium difficulty trails, or towing a small boat. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured this build will outlast most any other on this list.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New OEM sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain or mud-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• 1/2" Body lift

Budget Trail Crawler

The 4runner is an astonishingly capable truck in stock form. Bolting on a well sorted, moderate lift only serves to enhance it's technical trail prowess. This build is a more affordable version of the bread and butter lift for the 3rd gen, as seen below. Repeated 1000's of times, it rarely disappoints and is guaranteed to get it's owner through all but the most technical trails. It's also a build with some trade-offs. The truck's center of gravity will be raised, it's acceleration reduced, it's braking power diminished, and it's on road comfort affected. Long distance driving tends to become more tedious and fuel stops more common. Take the truck off-road and it all starts to make sense. Rear articulation is nearly unlimited and obstacles seem less intimidating than before.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - not brand specific
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New aftermarket sway bar links - front
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
• New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
• Used 1991-1996 Toyota Land Cruiser front springs
• New Monroe Sens-a-Trac 91-96 Land Cruiser rear shocks
• DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

Bread and Butter Build

In this build, we open up the purse strings a little more to create the true 4runner Bread and Butter Build. Copied a million times over, this build will provide many years of reliable service. Sure, there are more civilized directions to take (we'll touch on those next) but few other builds provide the capability that this does for this price.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
• New MDT extended sway bar links front
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New or Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
• New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
• New Toytec Superflex rear springs
• New Toytec Bilsteins matched to above springs - rear
• Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
• New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

The Ultimate

The name of this build is something of a misnomer. The build itself will not leave you with a class leading trophy truck, nor will it give Ferrari a run for it's money. I call it the ultimate because I believe it represents what these trucks should be. Simply put; completely capable in all categories - no more, no less. I set out to create a truck that would be equally at home bombing down a desert trail at 80 mph, as it would be escorting your teenage daughter to her first prom. A truck that creates lasting memories and takes us to places we never thought possible, with those closest to us. These trucks represent so much more than just four chunks of rubber and a heap of metal. Let's give them the respect they deserve and build them to their fullest potential.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New/used TRD Supercharger with supporting mods
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
• New MDT extended sway bar links front
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Shocks
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Coilovers w/ springs
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox bumpstops - front/rear
• New Toytec Superflex rear springs
• Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• Rebuilt 4.88 3rd member/clamshell from ECGS - front and rear
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
• New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

 

[Ol School]

My hats off to you Absalom, for taking the time to compile this information I'm sure many, including myself, will make good use of it. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I didnt see any cookies in this thread. I was expecting cookies. Chocolate chip, sugar, peanut butter, oat meal, etc. This is so disappointing

 

[absalom]

Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!

The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)

The Maverick - Brand New!!

The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New Durobump bumpstops
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New Bilstein 6112's up front
• New Bilstein 5160's out back
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo Open Country AT3's for this build, in B-rating)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
• HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

 

[MONTYMTB]

 

[diponyou]

Unfortunately there will still be 10 threads per day on
"derrrr, what lift should I choose???"

 

[absalom]

Unfortunately there will still be 10 threads per day on
"derrrr, what lift should I choose???"

Oh, I completely expect it. Even if this were the forum's homepage, and everyone had to acknowledge it before gaining access. The nice thing is, every time that question is asked, I can just copy and paste the whole post into my response.

 

[Ed_C]

new 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (mounted with road-force balancing machine

You can also go "plus zero" with a 245/76-16. Same overall diameter but slightly narrower, less unsprung weight/rotational mass , and costs less than the same tire in a 265/70-16.

 

[D Farms]

wheres the 35s?

also wheres the meat?

 

[TCMach]

wheres the 35s?

X2. Needs to have a "Trail Hero" section with 35s and double lockers

Also in my opinion you should add a rear locker to the Ultimate. I would put it above airbumps in the list of things. That is slightly regional though. There are more boulders than there is desert here in Colorado. Killer thread overall tho

 

[farmerjon]

Well done! I like how all of this stuff is all in one one place, yet really, really simple to read! I don't want a lift? I can look at one of the WW builds. I want a small lift, but basic? I can go further up the list. Excellent, good sir! Thanks!

 

[1985taylor1925]

All cookies aside, great reference thread for newer members seeking this info. Unfortunately these threads tend to get burried and new members never even see them. You could always link this thread in your signature, and then simply point it out to members seeking suspension advice

 

[Chim]

Well done

 

[DED&DED]

Absalom---You just save me $$$$ and more than a few mistakes. Please note that using the "print command" guarantees the thread is not lost.

Thank you!

 

[WallyWest]

Thank you very much! I'm a new owner and am in the process of doing basic maintenance and planning what to fix/upgrade next. This is great info.

:thumb3:

One question though, I see you have "new OEM radiator" on most of the lists. You don't recommend installing an aftermarket transmission cooler? With the pink milkshake thing being a possibility I thought bypassing the stock radiator with a separate tranny cooler was preferred.

 

[JayRolla]

Great thread!!! I wish you added LC coils as an option instead of the crappy low lift superflex that dont handle much weight and like to make noise when flexing. But its all in opinion I guess.

 

[TCMach]

Great thread!!! I wish you added LC coils as an option instead of the crappy low lift superflex that dont handle much weight and like to make noise when flexing. But its all in opinion I guess.

Interesting. My 9 wraps don't hold weight at all. My cooler might as well be an anvil. Springs are subjective though. He recommends TRD Tundra coils and when I ran them they rode like crap. Eventually switched to toytec eibachs and they rode 10x better. But I know others have had the opposite experience

 

[Scramble]

Great Job & lets hope the noobs read this!

I know many of us will have different opinions of the items mentioned & a few people have already started.
The only thing I have trouble with is the LR UCA's. There have been many threads on this forum & other forums with them breaking out on the trail & for safety/reliability reasons I would not recommend them.

 

[tors10]

I'm only a pavement biased, weekend warrior. I feel so judged.

 

[piranah]

Spent all afternoon building a list of stuff when I get a truck. Looks like I wasted my time...