Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

[chen5108]

Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!

The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)

The Maverick - Brand New!!

The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New Durobump bumpstops
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New Bilstein 6112's up front
• New Bilstein 5160's out back
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo AT2's for this build, in P-rating)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
• HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

I'm pretty happy to come across this since picking up a 3rd gen months ago. Looks like i'm on the right track!

 

[Tchalla]

Would I need extended sway bar links if I use the OEM 906 talls and suspension of either maverick with customized lift, or jack of all trades?

 

[99blkx]

Having just picked up a new-to-me 270k mile 99, I'm planning to follow the first post in this thread to baseline it for DD/WW (thanks for typing it up!). Is that still all relevant? This will mostly be a taking the dog places and going skiing rig. Not much DD action during the pandemic...

 

[beklemmung]

[MENTION=609094]Tchalla[/MENTION] - if you stick with 99 talls up front and 906s in the back, I think you probably wouldn't need extended sway bar links, based on what I've read. If you go any higher (~2" or more), then I think they're needed.
[MENTION=618400]99blkx[/MENTION] - yes, the builds on the 1st page are still relevant. FYI there are a couple more builds that Absalom posted on page #11.

 

[octanejunkie]

[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] nice update

You forgot the rear control arm bushings. Those go crap and handling goes out the window.

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[99blkx]

Where is everyone sourcing the OEM parts? Just your local dealer? I know in the Miata world we had a few suppliers that gave us solid discounts and there was MMD. I've also used Moog from Rock Auto or similar but I haven't seen that route suggested much...

 

[Bad Luck]

Where is everyone sourcing the OEM parts? Just your local dealer? I know in the Miata world we had a few suppliers that gave us solid discounts and there was MMD. I've also used Moog from Rock Auto or similar but I haven't seen that route suggested much...

I've had good luck with mcgeorge toyota Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online I found camelback toyota to be more expensive overall once shipping is added. Another option some people use is partsouq PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World Partsouq can have better prices but sometimes the shipping is more. It pays to price it out on both sites. Sometimes it's cheaper to get some from one and the rest from the other.

 

[Tchalla]

Does anyone have a picture of what their Maverick Build looks like and can show it here please?

 

[Tchalla]

What are some good outer and inner tie rods for the maverick build? Ab says to get aftermarket ones.

 

[JBurt]

I don't know what a maverick build is, but for steering parts it's hard to bean OEM. I haven't even heard of many aftermarket ones, except auto parts stores. I had terrible luck with the boots on moog otre's.

 

[Tchalla]

I have the 906 rear springs and the bilsteins are coming! What parts do I get next, so that I can put these parts in and what parts can I get later to put in. . . Prioritizing a safe and efficient rig build and easier installation. I wouldn’t want to remove difficult parts, put in new pieces, and then end up getting another new part where I would back track to remove that same difficult part again.

Do I get LBJ and bushings since the weight of the vehicle is mostly on these parts? It’s my first time working on my 3rd gen and it does have 270k miles on it. Any help is appreciated.

✌

 

[LS-4Runner]

Thank you for the quick guide lines, it is very helpful for a noob like myself.

 

[poleclimber63]

I should have clarified when I said TBUs that I mean the 231s specifically.

However, while the TBU in general might generate more braking force, or dissipate more heat faster, I don’t want new users or anyone to be under the impression that the stock brakes are bad. When I was diagnosing an unrelated ABS issue awhile back, I had pulled the ABS fuse and was easily able to lock up the fronts with fresh hardware.

That goes for mountain roads as well. Living in Colorado, there are no shortage of extreme grades to test brakes on. Whether I’m going over Loveland Pass, coming east bound on I-70 into Denver, or doing technical braking on demanding trails, I’ve never wanted for more braking force.

On the flip side, my TBU upgrade was fraught with issues. First of all, it wasn’t cheap. The pedal was squishy for months, and while I was eventually able to get it somewhat firm, it never inspired the confidence that my stock brakes did. I see many others having similar issues. So, I put myself in the position of an average builder, is chasing down the cause for a squishy and potentially dangerous pedal something I really want to tackle? Nope.

So it costs quite a bit (relative), it can introduce a myriad of issues (potentially), and it changes an already stout setup (my opinion). I don’t know about you, but I have bigger fish to fry when it comes to building my truck

Great Thread! I did the (231) TBU around 5 yrs ago mainly due to the fact, I was routinely towing a sport boat. I personally had no issues, other than the fact, the brakes performed 100% more effectively when towing! I sold the boat last year, and I haven't been putting a lot of miles on the 4R since (until now, as its snowing!).

I have a question. Any specific reason you advise rubber LCA bushings over poly? I'm asking because last year, I decided it was time to re-do the front end. I acquired some LCA's (and UCA's), Energy suspension bushings and UBJ's. I got side tracked this last year, due to a deck re-build, so now I'm thinking this may be a Spring project. I already have a bushing set, but I have read that the poly bushings may not stand up as well as the rubber. This is a big job, so if there is any doubt, I don't want to do this again in 4 yrs... I have attempted over the years to "tighten up" the steering with the rack guide/rack bushings, LBJ's, TRE's, it helped, but it never would stay aligned... hence the front end project! My idea is simply replace everything-- including the rack-- since you have to drop it to do the LCA's. My 4R is a 98' with 305K so it's probably time.
Any input would be appreciated!!

 

[absalom]

Hi all! I moved OOC and am now somewhat unplugged from the world of cars. It was a blast chatting with all over the years, keep the shiny side up

 

[Endlessblockades]

Hi all! I moved OOC and am now somewhat unplugged from the world of cars. It was a blast chatting with all over the years, keep the shiny side up

Enjoy the Lowlands! -where 50% of the nation is less than 3 feet above sea level and 17% is below!

And, yes, get a fleet of sick bikes.

 

[spartacus]

Hi all! I moved OOC and am now somewhat unplugged from the world of cars. It was a blast chatting with all over the years, keep the shiny side up

You can do some great mods on bicycles. Good luck. Best wishes.

 

[absalom]

You can do some great mods on bicycles. Good luck. Best wishes.

Haha thank you!

 

[noxor]

Absalom, thanks for these great builds! Looks like you aren't around to answer but on the chance someone else can chime in:

You put a one inch body lift on the list on the more offroad focused builds on the first page. Is that just to fit the 33" tires that you have on those builds or would there be another reason?

Thanks!

 

[octanejunkie]

Absalom, thanks for these great builds! Looks like you aren't around to answer but on the chance someone else can chime in:



You put a one inch body lift on the list on the more offroad focused builds on the first page. Is that just to fit the 33" tires that you have on those builds or would there be another reason?



Thanks!

Doubt he's coming back so yes, 1" BL helps clear larger tires (33s) without a BMC before trying to fit 35s

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