AC question for bigtuna

jamr1

New member
I googled a problem I am having with a 2000 limited I just bought and your name came up. The defrost and a few other buttons are not working on the climate control. How did you fix yours, where did you get the part and how much? Any help would be appreciated, also, for anyone, does the floorboards get warm on long trips in these things? I love it anyway.
 
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Well, I found out that I have to press the buttons REALLY hard...

I really want to find a fix for the limited HVAC panel buttons that doesn't involve me spending $670 bucks for a new control panel.
 
bigtuna said:
Well, I found out that I have to press the buttons REALLY hard...

I really want to find a fix for the limited HVAC panel buttons that doesn't involve me spending $670 bucks for a new control panel.
The tactile switches need replacing . If you can use a soldering iron you can buy these at most electronic supply houses and replace them yourself saving yourself quite a bit of money.
 
bigtuna said:
Great!!!

Do you have part#s for the new switches?

I would want to replace all of them.
Sorry no part numbers. They aren't available from Toyota separately. You'll have to take out the control unit and remove one and take it in to the parts store. These come in several different button heights so you'll need to compare yours with the store stock. The counter guy should be able to help. The good thing is that they are cheap and yes you might as well do them all while you're in there. Also while you're in there if you see any ribbon cables unlatch them and clean the ends (contacts) with alcohol. Years of smog and or smoke can make these intermittent.
 
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I think the way to attack this would be to just buy a used control from a salvage yard, and install new switches, and bulbs, etc.

Then I can swap the units and not have a lot of downtime, I hate having the truck apart and it seems that this may need to be worked on again. It would be nice to have a spare..

Thanks for the advice!!!
 
I removed the unit, the tactile switches are beyond my soldering capabilities, you think I could have an electronic repair shop do it, also I have the dash apart, do i need to reconect the ect button above the a/c to make the car run?
 
jamr1 said:
I removed the unit, the tactile switches are beyond my soldering capabilities, you think I could have an electronic repair shop do it, also I have the dash apart, do i need to reconect the ect button above the a/c to make the car run?
Where are you located? If you are in the Los Angeles area I can do it for you. Are you saying the car won't start?
 
Sorry, no I am in Texas. I took the unit apart last night, very simple. The switches are fairly easy to get to. I cant find the tactile switches, close enough to the size. Also, the electronics dealer says these switches are usually "momentary" and he thinks with this application they should be on/off? He said there might be a switch in the board doing this, but he is not sure. So I put it all back together and it works fine now???? Must not be a bad switch, I did nothing to the switches???? And the clock works now. There was a dumby plug insert on the back of the trim panel exactly like the plug for the clock. Someone must of pluged the clock plug in there when the stereo was installed.
 
jamr1 said:
Sorry, no I am in Texas. I took the unit apart last night, very simple. The switches are fairly easy to get to. I cant find the tactile switches, close enough to the size. Also, the electronics dealer says these switches are usually "momentary" and he thinks with this application they should be on/off? He said there might be a switch in the board doing this, but he is not sure. So I put it all back together and it works fine now???? Must not be a bad switch, I did nothing to the switches???? And the clock works now. There was a dumby plug insert on the back of the trim panel exactly like the plug for the clock. Someone must of pluged the clock plug in there when the stereo was installed.
I'm glad it's all working again, maybe just shakin' up the connectors was all that was needed although it's really odd that pushing hard on the buttons worked before. 3rd gen must be allot different than 4th gen 'cause all the switches are momentary in mine. Anyway now you've had a good look in there and learned new stuff, and o yeah saved yourself a pile of money. :bigok: :cheers:
 
Hey Dr Morbius,

it was me that has to push the buttons hard... just to clarify.

So I wonder if there is an electronics store in my area that can replace these switches, or possibly upgrade them.

Which leads me to another question... why does everyone have problems with this control? If I go to the salvage yard should I look for a control from a certain year, or possibly convert backwards to the manual control found in the SR5?

I mean, if it means it will go bad again, who needs the auto crap?
 
bigtuna said:
Hey Dr Morbius,

it was me that has to push the buttons hard... just to clarify.

So I wonder if there is an electronics store in my area that can replace these switches, or possibly upgrade them.

Which leads me to another question... why does everyone have problems with this control? If I go to the salvage yard should I look for a control from a certain year, or possibly convert backwards to the manual control found in the SR5?

I mean, if it means it will go bad again, who needs the auto crap?
Wow! Sorry I didn't even notice there was someone else in here. I didn't know everyone had problems with these controls but I do know that this type of switch doesn't like being struck hard , just a simple press will do. Inside is a piece of metal that deforms when you press the button and snaps back to it's original shape when it is released acting as a spring. If you hit them hard the metal will crack and no more spring. If you treat them right they will last a long time. I don't have any idea if another year will wrk.
 
it does seem to be a common problem. All I did to mine was clean the circuit boards and the connector from the front board to the rear boards. I just drove it again and it still working. Pushing hard only worked on the buttons that pushed straight in, the ones on the rockers still did not.
 
jamr1 said:
it does seem to be a common problem. All I did to mine was clean the circuit boards and the connector from the front board to the rear boards. I just drove it again and it still working. Pushing hard only worked on the buttons that pushed straight in, the ones on the rockers still did not.
Are the ones on rockers connected to the main board via flat "ribbon" cables?
 
There is a board in the front behind the panel of buttons, all with identical tactile switches. The only ribbon is behind this panel going to two other boards in the body of the unit.
 
jamr1 said:
There is a board in the front behind the panel of buttons, all with identical tactile switches. The only ribbon is behind this panel going to two other boards in the body of the unit.
Take a close look at the way the ribbon attaches to the board. There is a connector on the board/s that clamps the ribbon in place. Be sure the ribbon isn't partly pulled out of its connector.
 
No, i insured it was pushed in as far as it could be before i locked the ribbon, that could have been the problem, who knows.
 
jamr1 said:
No, i insured it was pushed in as far as it could be before i locked the ribbon, that could have been the problem, who knows.
Did you clean the ribbon ends with alcohol? Is it all working now or still as you said before. If it still doesn't work I'd hit the wrecking yards in search of another unit. I can't believe all the switches on the board are dead. Something else is up. Your sure the correct side of the ribbon is in the connector facing down against its contacts.
 
still all working, i dont know if you could twist the ribbon to make it go in the slot upside down. It seemed strange to me also that a toyota component, much less 7, would all fail simitaneously.
 
jamr1 said:
still all working, i dont know if you could twist the ribbon to make it go in the slot upside down. It seemed strange to me also that a toyota component, much less 7, would all fail simitaneously.
I'm glad you understand ribbon connectors because I don't think I could have explained the clamping mechanism without confusing people. You must work in electronics somewhere because you caught tactile switches as well. So as of now all is working correctly? Now I have to try and help big tuna. At least the subject matter was the same. I'll bet he has a problem with that ribbon too.
 

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