I actually did a bit of reading on rotor design a while back and basically when it comes to "Cross Drilled" you need to find out HOW the Cross Drilling is done.
The ones that seem to be most prone to cracking are the ones where a standard rotor is taken and then drilled (usually cheaper rotors from my understanding), there is a second kind where the holes are cast along with the rotor and then drilled & countersunk for consistency. The act of casting the holes into the rotor actually helps retain strength and prevent cracking, where a straight drilling into the metal can introduce stresses not seen when a rotor is cast with holes already.
Slotting is a similar method of venting gases formed by intense braking. The slotting doesn't crack nearly as much as cross drilling and tends to serve its purpose from what I have seen.
Cooling isn't really the main purpose of these features, they are mainly designed specifically for venting gases caused by intense braking that can result in brake fade. This is mainly why it is seen on performance and racing vehicles. Though I suppose some cooling could be effected by the design marginally.
I can say that from experience they don't tend to be any more prone to "warping" than other brake designs, though they do develop some seriously weird finishes. Mercedes-Benz likes to use cross drilled rotors on their AMGs and they can't really be resurfaced because the rotors take on this sort of weird circular rib pattern; but the pedal feels fine under normal conditions. "Warping" is uneven deposits of the brake pad material, usually due to excessive heating and uneven application (i.e. coming down a hill and then stopping at a stop light.)
For the most part though, on an SUV; unless you're turning it into a track monster it serves no purpose to go anything but a standard non-drilled, non-slotted rotor. Mainly because in our case with off-roading in mind it will load up the holes and slots with debris and promote "warping" as that material could be baked into the rotor. You're better off with a larger/thicker rotor and better brake pads that "bite" into the rotor.
The reality is that most every disc is cast iron unless you get into the two part aluminum/ceramic stuff reserved for racing/performance. Any good name brand rotor will be applicable to your vehicle in this respect. The key is finding the right brake pad and possibly caliper (if you are upgrading.) Something to note is that you have an SR5, Sport Editions and some Limiteds came with a slightly larger set of brakes, there are write-ups on the forum on how to upgrade to the "big brake kits." Usually it is a matter of new rotors and calipers if I remember right, which will give you better performance than fancy rotors.
I would also look for a good set of brake pads, keep in mind there are different kinds and quality for different driving needs and they all come with their own quirks. i.e. pure ceramic pads are typically noiser than semi-metallic pads, will last longer, but will eat up your rotor faster.
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In regards to brake fluid, the industry standard for a long time has been 3yr/30k due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid (meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere.) Though many performance brands and now even non-performance brands are going to a 2yr/20k service interval (I haven't found much data that indicates for most non-performance vehicles it is any more beneficial to go with 2yr/20k vs. 3yr/30k.) If you are finding that you are heating your brakes up a lot from stop & go traffic, hills, and/or high speed driving I would recommend upgrading to a DOT4 brake fluid vs. the factory DOT3 (something I am considering since on my personal vehicle after 15k of my driving and off-roading my brake fluid is already looking pretty burnt up.) The nice thing is that DOT3 & DOT 4 are interchangeable so if you do a good flush with extra DOT4 to clean out the old DOT3 (or if you really want to be sure you get all the DOT3 out, flush the system with Denatured Alcohol and then flush it with DOT4), so mixing the two isn't an issue. Do NOT use DOT5 as it is a silicon based fluid and is not compatible with DOT3/4 as well as having a different viscosity which will not play well with the ABS system.
